Engine Replacement Questions
#1
Engine Replacement Questions
well it seems once spring is here and im making some money, im going to be replacing my beat 22R (in my 87 4x4) with a LC engineering street longblock...i want to start a thread now so i could start gathering gaskets and such...so that leads me to my question...
1. What gasket do i need besides the obvious...?
2. Are there any tricks or hard to reach fasteners i need to be aware of?
3. Whats the order i should start removing everything in?
4. How to set timing?
5. How to prime the engine with oil before actually firing?
this might sound stupid but when u reply maybe u could put the number so it makes it easyer for other people to read down the road too..
thanks guys
1. What gasket do i need besides the obvious...?
2. Are there any tricks or hard to reach fasteners i need to be aware of?
3. Whats the order i should start removing everything in?
4. How to set timing?
5. How to prime the engine with oil before actually firing?
this might sound stupid but when u reply maybe u could put the number so it makes it easyer for other people to read down the road too..
thanks guys
#2
Registered User
1. you'll need gaskets for the intake and exhaust manifolds, valve cover and oil pan. maybe a couple other little insignificant ones
2. the hardest one you'll have to deal with are the 2 upper bellhousing bolts on the transmission. i used a u-joint and 2 long swivel extensions(basically made a "C" shape) on my ratchet. everything else should be pretty straightforward.
3. no real particular order, you don't have EFI so there shouldn't be too much to remove. after pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds and accessories, there isn't really much else to do besides removing the hoses and unbolting the engine.
4. at 8*BTDC(i think, check your manual) on the #1 cylinder compression stroke, insert the distributor with the rotor facing the 12:00 position. it should spin left a bit to about the 10:00 position. then pop the rotor off and align the reluctor tooth with the pickup(it'll be come clearer when you do it). i'm sure somebody can explain better than me.
5. i've heard of people pumping oil in through the pressure sender hole, i packed my oil pump with grease. either way, before installing the valve cover, dump a quart or two of oil all over the rocker assembly, valve springs and camshaft. i primed my engine by leaving the spark plugs uninstalled and cranking the engine until it built oil pressure.
2. the hardest one you'll have to deal with are the 2 upper bellhousing bolts on the transmission. i used a u-joint and 2 long swivel extensions(basically made a "C" shape) on my ratchet. everything else should be pretty straightforward.
3. no real particular order, you don't have EFI so there shouldn't be too much to remove. after pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds and accessories, there isn't really much else to do besides removing the hoses and unbolting the engine.
4. at 8*BTDC(i think, check your manual) on the #1 cylinder compression stroke, insert the distributor with the rotor facing the 12:00 position. it should spin left a bit to about the 10:00 position. then pop the rotor off and align the reluctor tooth with the pickup(it'll be come clearer when you do it). i'm sure somebody can explain better than me.
5. i've heard of people pumping oil in through the pressure sender hole, i packed my oil pump with grease. either way, before installing the valve cover, dump a quart or two of oil all over the rocker assembly, valve springs and camshaft. i primed my engine by leaving the spark plugs uninstalled and cranking the engine until it built oil pressure.
#5
Registered User
1. water pump gasket, some wierd plate on the back of the the head that take a gasket, exhauset manifold and collector gaskets, sometimes the rubber o-ring on a pipe way under the intake need to be replaced.
2. There is a hidden intake manifold bolt that goes thru the thermostat area in the manifold that is a PITA to remove and tighten.
3. First disconnect the battery and then work top to bottom and yank the motor out
4. Get a manual, it will explaine it with pictures
5. Crank it over without leting it fire till the guage shows pressure, or beg borrow steal an accusump.
You dont have EFI on a 87? or misprint?
2. There is a hidden intake manifold bolt that goes thru the thermostat area in the manifold that is a PITA to remove and tighten.
3. First disconnect the battery and then work top to bottom and yank the motor out
4. Get a manual, it will explaine it with pictures
5. Crank it over without leting it fire till the guage shows pressure, or beg borrow steal an accusump.
You dont have EFI on a 87? or misprint?
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#11
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
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that bolt cost me an entire day on my rebuild. and the manual i had was a waste of a tree. practice makes perfect with those tranny bolts. after three trannys (droped to replace clutch) in mine and my buddies rigs they get easier and easier to remove.
#12
sefus...what tools did you find easyest to get the bolt out? same thing as Kyle22r?
do u guys get it from the top of the engine or underneath the truck?
do u guys get it from the top of the engine or underneath the truck?
Last edited by brendonv; 03-20-2005 at 09:56 AM.
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