Emergeny Brake Issue
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Emergeny Brake Issue
1997 4 Runner Limited
E-brake has always been EXTREMELY hard to engage, and even then doesn't stop the car (or keep it from rolling). I have it up in the air right now to fix an axle leak and noticed that the drivers side seems frozen. There is a cable that runs between the two brake drums...one (passenger) moves in and out with my fingers and I can hear/feel the brakes engaging. The other one doesn't budge, and appears to be in the "engaged" position.
Les Schwab did a $400 brake job the month before I bought this truck from a guy, but it's never worked so they either screwed it up or missed it.
Any clue as to my next move? Can it be "unstuck" with a little WD40 and a hammer? Do I need to take it apart? Is this a common thing?
Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
Mike
E-brake has always been EXTREMELY hard to engage, and even then doesn't stop the car (or keep it from rolling). I have it up in the air right now to fix an axle leak and noticed that the drivers side seems frozen. There is a cable that runs between the two brake drums...one (passenger) moves in and out with my fingers and I can hear/feel the brakes engaging. The other one doesn't budge, and appears to be in the "engaged" position.
Les Schwab did a $400 brake job the month before I bought this truck from a guy, but it's never worked so they either screwed it up or missed it.
Any clue as to my next move? Can it be "unstuck" with a little WD40 and a hammer? Do I need to take it apart? Is this a common thing?
Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
Mike
#2
Contributing Member
You can try unsticking it but in my experience once those brake levers get rusty they need to be replaced. Lubing it would just be a temporary fix.
#4
You have two options: Replace the frozen bellcrank(s), or remove the frozen bellcrank(s), liberally spray them with PB Blaster and beat the hell out of them until the free up.
I did the latter and had a hell of a time...after I was done I covered the bellcrank with some 80w90 oil, put the boot back on, and reinstalled it. My e-brake has worked perfect ever since!
-ShrimpMan
#5
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Once you free that bellcrank up you need to lube the lever were it slides between that "fork" guide this is where it rusts and seizes up... there and at the mid-point lever (not sure if your model year still used that item) along the inner left frame rail just ahead of the fuel tank.
oops forgot... use the same grease you use for the driveline/steering components to grease the levers... if you put a good fresh knob of grease on there at each oil change and work it in ie cycle the lever a few times you should have no worries.
As for it not holding the truck you need to get the rear brakes adjusted if the e brake is not holding the truck there is a chance the rear brakes are not fully engaging when you apply the normal brakes.
oops forgot... use the same grease you use for the driveline/steering components to grease the levers... if you put a good fresh knob of grease on there at each oil change and work it in ie cycle the lever a few times you should have no worries.
As for it not holding the truck you need to get the rear brakes adjusted if the e brake is not holding the truck there is a chance the rear brakes are not fully engaging when you apply the normal brakes.
Last edited by aviator; 08-21-2009 at 08:58 PM.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ditto!
I have the bellcrank free and the driver side engages fine, however the passenger side does not and I am not sure how that cable is supposed to get tension on it.
Help would be greatly appreciated as always!
I have the bellcrank free and the driver side engages fine, however the passenger side does not and I am not sure how that cable is supposed to get tension on it.
Help would be greatly appreciated as always!
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