Electrical Question
#1
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Electrical Question
I want to wire up a set of extra back up lights on my rig. I would like to install a 3-way switch that will allow them to be:
On with the back up lights just by putting it in reverse
On by themselves, without the back up lights
And off when not necessary at all, (day time)
Is that possible? It sounds possible but what kind of a switch will allow me to do that? And where do I get it?
On with the back up lights just by putting it in reverse
On by themselves, without the back up lights
And off when not necessary at all, (day time)
Is that possible? It sounds possible but what kind of a switch will allow me to do that? And where do I get it?
#2
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I've wired up my backup lights but came here to learn what I could do.
If someone has the answer or if you hear about it via PM, e-mail or something let me know yeah?
The only thing I can think of would be to split the lines and create two switches?
Is that even possible?
anyone?
If someone has the answer or if you hear about it via PM, e-mail or something let me know yeah?
The only thing I can think of would be to split the lines and create two switches?
Is that even possible?
anyone?
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I have the switch and relay, and I have the schematics all worked out. Now it's just a matter of finding which backup wire to tap and where to mount everything. Once I figure all that out I'll install it and have a little writeup. That might take a couple weeks though, depending on how lazy I am. I'd post a pic of the schematic, but I have to trim my montypics account.
Steve
Steve
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Are you trying to do the same thing?
I just came across a write up on a jeep that has an IPF back up light kit that included a three-way switch. It is a SPDT (single pole, double throw, center off with a ground to light the LED)
The switch provides three modes, on manually, off, and on with the stock backup lights.
This is exactly what I want.
I am trying to figure out where to get it.
I just came across a write up on a jeep that has an IPF back up light kit that included a three-way switch. It is a SPDT (single pole, double throw, center off with a ground to light the LED)
The switch provides three modes, on manually, off, and on with the stock backup lights.
This is exactly what I want.
I am trying to figure out where to get it.
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Yeah, I'm doing the same thing. I got a DPDT switch from radio shack. It's an AC switch, but I think it should work. They also had DC switches, but I got this one because it's really small.
Steve
Steve
#7
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Originally posted by Robinhood150
Yeah, I'm doing the same thing. I got a DPDT switch from radio shack. It's an AC switch, but I think it should work. They also had DC switches, but I got this one because it's really small.
Yeah, I'm doing the same thing. I got a DPDT switch from radio shack. It's an AC switch, but I think it should work. They also had DC switches, but I got this one because it's really small.
In _general_... A switch that is rated for AC current will work fine in a DC circuit, and vice-versa. The exception would be a switch that has built-in illumination.
The biggest issue at hand is the current rating on the switch. A switch rated for 5 amps at 120vac will have a different rating for DC current. This is because AC is "easier" on a switch than DC because the Alternating Current (AC) gives the switch contacts a "breaK". In DC (Direct Current), the current flow is constant and in one direction (from the negative pole to the positive pole).
If the switch isn't marked with a dual rating, then I generally treat the DC current rating as 70% of the AC rating. So, if your switch is rated for 5 amps at 120vac, then I wouldn't put more than 3.5amps through it at 12vdc (which is 42 watts). If you need to handle more current than that, then wire up the switch to trigger a high current relay.
Hope that helps.
Mark
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I myself would use just a spst switch. Splice into the reverse light to control a relay so the aux lights come on with the back up lights. Then use a seperate switch to operate the aux lights by themselves.Very simple. If you need a schematic i will write you one up.
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Originally posted by mpulver
You'll be fine... The type of current isn't _too_ important through the switch, but the amount of current is.
In _general_... A switch that is rated for AC current will work fine in a DC circuit, and vice-versa. The exception would be a switch that has built-in illumination.
The biggest issue at hand is the current rating on the switch. A switch rated for 5 amps at 120vac will have a different rating for DC current. This is because AC is "easier" on a switch than DC because the Alternating Current (AC) gives the switch contacts a "breaK". In DC (Direct Current), the current flow is constant and in one direction (from the negative pole to the positive pole).
If the switch isn't marked with a dual rating, then I generally treat the DC current rating as 70% of the AC rating. So, if your switch is rated for 5 amps at 120vac, then I wouldn't put more than 3.5amps through it at 12vdc (which is 42 watts). If you need to handle more current than that, then wire up the switch to trigger a high current relay.
Hope that helps.
Mark
You'll be fine... The type of current isn't _too_ important through the switch, but the amount of current is.
In _general_... A switch that is rated for AC current will work fine in a DC circuit, and vice-versa. The exception would be a switch that has built-in illumination.
The biggest issue at hand is the current rating on the switch. A switch rated for 5 amps at 120vac will have a different rating for DC current. This is because AC is "easier" on a switch than DC because the Alternating Current (AC) gives the switch contacts a "breaK". In DC (Direct Current), the current flow is constant and in one direction (from the negative pole to the positive pole).
If the switch isn't marked with a dual rating, then I generally treat the DC current rating as 70% of the AC rating. So, if your switch is rated for 5 amps at 120vac, then I wouldn't put more than 3.5amps through it at 12vdc (which is 42 watts). If you need to handle more current than that, then wire up the switch to trigger a high current relay.
Hope that helps.
Mark
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I am working on the same thing. My schematic is pretty self explanatory.
On my 1999 the wire to tap into for reverse activated power is red with a yellow stripe located near the drivers side door floor panel.
On my 1999 the wire to tap into for reverse activated power is red with a yellow stripe located near the drivers side door floor panel.
Last edited by jalaber; 05-01-2003 at 08:46 AM.
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Yes. Otherwise the light on the switch would be on all the time.
Personally I dont like that. If you wanted to you could make the "Full-Time" power connection to an ignition activated power source and then the switch light would be on anytime the vehicle is on. You could then skip the second relay.
I like the switch to light up only when the rear lamps are actually on, hence the second relay.
Personally I dont like that. If you wanted to you could make the "Full-Time" power connection to an ignition activated power source and then the switch light would be on anytime the vehicle is on. You could then skip the second relay.
I like the switch to light up only when the rear lamps are actually on, hence the second relay.
Last edited by jalaber; 05-01-2003 at 09:39 AM.
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My Schematic does the following....
Switch up: Reverse Lamps On manually anytime (good for use as a "back off" lamp for pesty tailgaters, or for setting up camp, loading at night, etc...)
Switch in the middle position: Reverse Lamps Off (even when in reverse)
Switch in the down position: Reverse Lamps will automatically come on when shifter placed in reverse. Switch may be left in this position all the time even when vehicle is off and parked. Switch will only light up when vehicle is put into reverse.
Switch up: Reverse Lamps On manually anytime (good for use as a "back off" lamp for pesty tailgaters, or for setting up camp, loading at night, etc...)
Switch in the middle position: Reverse Lamps Off (even when in reverse)
Switch in the down position: Reverse Lamps will automatically come on when shifter placed in reverse. Switch may be left in this position all the time even when vehicle is off and parked. Switch will only light up when vehicle is put into reverse.
Last edited by jalaber; 05-01-2003 at 10:36 AM.
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The switch i am using is a Cole Hersee 58328-103-BP SPDT On-Off-On, dependent piolit light, weatherproof, 25amp 12V rocker switch with interchangeable lenses in 4 colors.
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Thanks. I myself wouldnt have done it that way but i like it better. The switch really threw me off. Im gonna try to get that switch here. You would be surprised what you cant get here.
Last edited by zedex; 05-01-2003 at 10:29 AM.
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At the risk of sounding totally ignorant, why do I want to use the relays? And what should I get?
I'm not used to wiring things with relays...
I'm not used to wiring things with relays...
#19
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Originally posted by Albuquerque Jim
At the risk of sounding totally ignorant, why do I want to use the relays? And what should I get?
I'm not used to wiring things with relays...
At the risk of sounding totally ignorant, why do I want to use the relays? And what should I get?
I'm not used to wiring things with relays...
In this application, a relay can also come in handy to let the current drawn by the backup lamps drive a secondary circuit. Again, depending on the current draw that you're looking to add, it may be safer to run a separate positive lead to the new load. Then the only additional load on the present backup lamp wiring is just what's required to drive the relay coil which will probably be in the 20-30ma range.