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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Lompoc, Ca.
Posts: 103
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electric fans
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'97 2wd Tacoma, 3.4 V6 Suspension: Fabtech 3 1/2" lift and Rancho RS5000 shocks Performance: flowmaster muffler, K&N air filter, intake silencer removal mod, elbow and deckplate mod, NGK spark plug wires, flex-a-lite electric fans. Lighting: Pilot Driving Lights, Sylvania Silverstar Headlight bulbs, Blazer "Ultra-white Series" Fog Lights (there's an oxy-moron), and nifty blue L.E.D.'s here and there Stereo: All kenwood system, 47x4 deck, component systems up front, 2-ways in rear panels, 10" sub, 600 watt amp. Miscellanous: smittybilt steps, bushwhacker fender flares, sunpro tach, 3" body lift, line-x bedliner, K&N Oil Filter, Air gate, Viper alarm system, snow tiger seat covers, A.P.C. toyota emblem(blue background) Window Tint:(limo tint on rear windows and extended cab windows, blue chrome tint on visor), fab-tech spare tire mount |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Sponsoring Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Seattleish, WA
Posts: 9,078
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Congrats man!
I didn't do the A/C switch either... I may later, but by the time I got the basics done my hands were pretty cold and it was hard to move 'em. ![]() For those folks reading that don't know, the Flex-a-lite control module allows for the connection of a signal wire from your A/C so that the fans turn on anytime that the A/C compressor clutch is engaged. The reason is to be sure sur that there's air moving through the A/C condensor coils (in front of the radiator) which will provide cool (or cooler) air when sitting stopped with the engine running. It's a decent idea, and considering how much air these fans move, will work a LOT better than the stock fan. ![]() One/two thing(s) against it though... If your driving pattern is basically a lot of moving, then you could end up running the fans a lot more than necessary. As well, remember that having the defroster on will automatically engage the A/C if you have it in order to dry the air. So that would kick the fans on as well.
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~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Lompoc, Ca.
Posts: 103
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I am going to have to pull out the truck bible (haynes automotive guide) for my truck and see how the a/c button is setup. Is there a way to wire the a/c switch for the fans just to the button, so that the defroster function doesn't turn on the fans automatically, but the normal a/c will?
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'97 2wd Tacoma, 3.4 V6 Suspension: Fabtech 3 1/2" lift and Rancho RS5000 shocks Performance: flowmaster muffler, K&N air filter, intake silencer removal mod, elbow and deckplate mod, NGK spark plug wires, flex-a-lite electric fans. Lighting: Pilot Driving Lights, Sylvania Silverstar Headlight bulbs, Blazer "Ultra-white Series" Fog Lights (there's an oxy-moron), and nifty blue L.E.D.'s here and there Stereo: All kenwood system, 47x4 deck, component systems up front, 2-ways in rear panels, 10" sub, 600 watt amp. Miscellanous: smittybilt steps, bushwhacker fender flares, sunpro tach, 3" body lift, line-x bedliner, K&N Oil Filter, Air gate, Viper alarm system, snow tiger seat covers, A.P.C. toyota emblem(blue background) Window Tint:(limo tint on rear windows and extended cab windows, blue chrome tint on visor), fab-tech spare tire mount |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Sponsoring Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Seattleish, WA
Posts: 9,078
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Quote:
The implication in the fan instructions is that they want you to Y into the 12v source for the compressor clutch and use that as the alternate trigger for the fan control module. That of course means that the fans would come on no matter what triggered the clutch. On my '96, the vent selector control is mechanical (I think it's the same way on your '97) so tapping into the difference between the dash A/C switch being ON and the vent selector being in the DEFROST position could be tricky. A side note... If you DO Y into the compressor clutch 12v, then that means that you'll have to run a wire from the "engine side" of the install to the "fan side". That means either crossing the path of the belts and the fans, or going down the block to the firewall, across to a fender, up the fender well, and over to the control module. Than can be a bit ugly cosmetically. With me being up in the PNW, I dun't know that I'm gonna much worry about doing it. You being down in CA, will probably worry about it more.
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~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Lompoc, Ca.
Posts: 103
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Depending on what year and model truck or suv you have, you can run the wire from the control box (mine is mounted just under the battery) drop it down to the frame, run it on top of the cross-member, and then up to the a/c. On my cross member there are holes on the top of it, a few of them side by side, so I will just zip tie the wires to that when I run the a/c, if I run it that way.
__________________
'97 2wd Tacoma, 3.4 V6 Suspension: Fabtech 3 1/2" lift and Rancho RS5000 shocks Performance: flowmaster muffler, K&N air filter, intake silencer removal mod, elbow and deckplate mod, NGK spark plug wires, flex-a-lite electric fans. Lighting: Pilot Driving Lights, Sylvania Silverstar Headlight bulbs, Blazer "Ultra-white Series" Fog Lights (there's an oxy-moron), and nifty blue L.E.D.'s here and there Stereo: All kenwood system, 47x4 deck, component systems up front, 2-ways in rear panels, 10" sub, 600 watt amp. Miscellanous: smittybilt steps, bushwhacker fender flares, sunpro tach, 3" body lift, line-x bedliner, K&N Oil Filter, Air gate, Viper alarm system, snow tiger seat covers, A.P.C. toyota emblem(blue background) Window Tint:(limo tint on rear windows and extended cab windows, blue chrome tint on visor), fab-tech spare tire mount |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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On my install of the FLX-210 I ran the wire for the AC control up to the fuse box and used a mini fuse tap to wire the connection to the AC fuse. My fan comes on with the A/C and it was a very easy install.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,487
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I just placed my order with Summit for my fans. I checked around for the last couple of days and they seemed to have the best price. Checker Autoparts was a couple of bux cheaper but didn't carry the blue ones. I opted for the FLX-210B for mine. These are the blue ones so they match engine compartment/accesories.
Hey Mr trangk: You stated you wired the a/c wire to your fuse box. The one under the dash or the one in the engine compartmet nest to the battery? Do you have any pics of it?? Thanks! Paul :fireman: |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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pfdaxe:
I wired it to the one in the engine compartment ... I'll try and get a pic tommorrow (need to get the digital camera back from my friend) How much extra was the blue fan? I didn't even know they had other colors with the 210 model |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Away
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Trangk, they all kinds of designer colors!
Check out these lovely pics: ![]() ![]() I bought a plain black one from Baxter Auto parts for $233.99 They stock them and it was right down the street from me... Dr. Z |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Sponsoring Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Seattleish, WA
Posts: 9,078
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Quote:
__________________
~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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ARGH!
Wish I knew about the red ones and that they aren't that much more expensive. I've seen the colored ones for the Integra/Civic/etc and they always cost SOOO much more. There's just so much stuff in Summit's catalog ![]() Oh well maybe next time
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Not sure if you still need this pfdaxe, but I finally got my camera back from my friend.
Here is how I hooked my AC relay for the fan up. I used a mini fuse tap (available at any auto part store for about $6.00). It has a place for the original fuse and a new fuse for the item you're hooking into it. These things are really nice ...
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,487
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Thanks for the pics!
I installed my new grill and installed the fans today. I haven't driven it yet though. I will probably connect to the a/c soon. I looked in my fuse box under the hood and saw the a/c fuse in there. It looks different than your box though(mines a '00). I'll just throw a meter on it and see what side I need to connect to. Once I drive it I'll figure out where I need to set the t-stat on the control unit. For now, I have it set in the middle(normal)to see how that works. Paul:fireman: |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Yeah my 4Runner is a 98 4cycl so the fusebox is different (forgot to mention that). Once you figure out how to fuse your fan though, just get a fuse tap and you'll be all set.
Got any pics of your new grille?
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,487
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I'll have pics soon. I finished the grill(at least my part)and now have to take it to the paint shop. I'll also take some pics of my "blue" fans
![]() paul |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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So what's the main reason for switching from the stock fan to the electrics? Is there a power gain?
Chris
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http://www.utvrally.com |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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There's supposed to be. The clutch driven fan contributes to "parasitic" power loss. Not sure how heavy the 3G fan is, but basically the fan is being turned by the engine ALL the time - extra resistance. The electric fans come on when the thermostat says (adjustable), plus you can shut it off for water crossings.
Is it documented that it helps provide more power? Not that I've seen anywhere. But, the theory seems pretty sound to me.
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[size="1"][center][color=RoyalBlue]UZswap.com A site dedicated to sharing info for swapping the Toyota/ Lexus UZ (V8) engines into Toyota Trucks and 4Runners. My 4Runner 1993 4Runner, 1UZ (V8) auto dual ultimate crawler, double locked, 35's on beadlocked SR5 alloys, low lift, hacked fenders, tubbed firewall, custom armor TOOLandFAB.com A discussion forum dedicated to tools, fabrication & workshops. See my[url=http://toolandfab.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71] JD2 Bender Hydro Conversion |
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#18 (permalink) | ||
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Sponsoring Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Seattleish, WA
Posts: 9,078
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Quote:
Quote:
The major thing that you feel with the mechanical fan gone is better throttle response since you're reducing the mass that the engine has to push in order to spin up.
__________________
~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams |
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