E-Locker won't engage...
01-24-2004, 01:26 PM
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E-Locker won't engage...*edit* Now won't Disengage!!!
So, it's been a few months since I've used the locker and today I thought I'd give it a litte test and it failed! 
I have ice on 1/2 of my driveway - so i parked with one side on the ice and others on concrete - and I was just spinning the 1 rear tire. So, I flipped the locker switch (not factory - it's retrofitted e-locker so I can and have engaged it in 2wd) and nothing - still just spun the 1 rear tire. I backed up drove forward in a little "s" to try to get it to lock but nada - just spun the 1 rear tire. I even went out to a dirt field were I've tested the locker before and it isn't engaging. As stated, it's a retrofit - so I don't have a little light on the dash to tell me it's locked on not.
I'm pretty sure it's not the wiring cause when I flip the switch on and off I can hear a click behind the dash and little 2 second humming at the differential. Even so, still doesn't lock up.
Any ideas what else might be going wrong? or what I can check.
Thanks,
John
I have ice on 1/2 of my driveway - so i parked with one side on the ice and others on concrete - and I was just spinning the 1 rear tire. So, I flipped the locker switch (not factory - it's retrofitted e-locker so I can and have engaged it in 2wd) and nothing - still just spun the 1 rear tire. I backed up drove forward in a little "s" to try to get it to lock but nada - just spun the 1 rear tire. I even went out to a dirt field were I've tested the locker before and it isn't engaging. As stated, it's a retrofit - so I don't have a little light on the dash to tell me it's locked on not. I'm pretty sure it's not the wiring cause when I flip the switch on and off I can hear a click behind the dash and little 2 second humming at the differential. Even so, still doesn't lock up.
Any ideas what else might be going wrong? or what I can check.
Thanks,
John
Last edited by Mojo_Risin; 01-27-2004 at 08:29 PM.
01-26-2004, 02:46 AM
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Originally posted by Jake94
Hey, I'm a Noob to this board but I have some insite to your problem. 1st a few ?'s 1) what kind of switch are you using? 2) Did you use relays? 3) Did you install a resistor? Here is a simple check tou can do. Jack her up so you can spin the rear wheels. Get out your multimeter and tap into the GREEN and GREEN/RED wires. It doesent matter which test lead goes to which wire. Have someone throw the switch as you listen to the locker motor and watch the meter. You should see - OR + 12v as you hear the motor turn. If it locks you should hear a solid "click" and the vlotage should drop to 0. If the motor stops but the locker is not locked you should see 2-3v on the meter. Spin one of the tires, the locker should engage and the voltage should drop to 0. Now repeat the process for unlock. If you had a +12v reading when you locked it you should have a -12v reading when you unlock it and visa versa. If you wired it with a resistor you may see only 7-8v. While you are under there may as well wire it up for a "locked" light. Get a cheap lamp from Radio Shack to put in the dash. Make sure BOTH WHITE/BLACK wires run to ground. The BLUE/YELLOW wire is for the light, run it up to the light in the dash, then wire it to a "HOT" wire. The light will only come on when the locker is completly locked and go out when compleatly unlocked. Check it out and let us know how you make out. Just 'cause you can hear the motor turn dosent rule out eletrical problems, you may not have any residule power to the motor to hold pressure on the shift fork while the spilnes line up. Sorry for the long post. Good luck, Jake.
Hey, I'm a Noob to this board but I have some insite to your problem. 1st a few ?'s 1) what kind of switch are you using? 2) Did you use relays? 3) Did you install a resistor? Here is a simple check tou can do. Jack her up so you can spin the rear wheels. Get out your multimeter and tap into the GREEN and GREEN/RED wires. It doesent matter which test lead goes to which wire. Have someone throw the switch as you listen to the locker motor and watch the meter. You should see - OR + 12v as you hear the motor turn. If it locks you should hear a solid "click" and the vlotage should drop to 0. If the motor stops but the locker is not locked you should see 2-3v on the meter. Spin one of the tires, the locker should engage and the voltage should drop to 0. Now repeat the process for unlock. If you had a +12v reading when you locked it you should have a -12v reading when you unlock it and visa versa. If you wired it with a resistor you may see only 7-8v. While you are under there may as well wire it up for a "locked" light. Get a cheap lamp from Radio Shack to put in the dash. Make sure BOTH WHITE/BLACK wires run to ground. The BLUE/YELLOW wire is for the light, run it up to the light in the dash, then wire it to a "HOT" wire. The light will only come on when the locker is completly locked and go out when compleatly unlocked. Check it out and let us know how you make out. Just 'cause you can hear the motor turn dosent rule out eletrical problems, you may not have any residule power to the motor to hold pressure on the shift fork while the spilnes line up. Sorry for the long post. Good luck, Jake.
Welcome to the board!
BTW.....that's not newbie type info.
01-26-2004, 07:39 AM
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Originally posted by Jake94
Hey, I'm a Noob to this board but I have some insite to your problem. 1st a few ?'s 1) what kind of switch are you using? 2) Did you use relays? 3) Did you install a resistor?
Hey, I'm a Noob to this board but I have some insite to your problem. 1st a few ?'s 1) what kind of switch are you using? 2) Did you use relays? 3) Did you install a resistor?
I didn't install and wire the locker myself - I had Offroad Solutions do it. As I've stated in other posts - I was never that satisfied with their wiring job. All I have is a toggle switch that I flip on and off - no indication of on or off. I'd like to take your advice and wire it up to have an indicator light - but honestly, I really wouldn't know what I was doing under there. So, I see your in Denver... Looking to help someone out with a wiring project some weekend??
Thanks,
John
01-26-2004, 03:15 PM
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hey man you lucked out if you want it. today when i got my 2002 cup holder deal their was a rr diff locker switch frozen to the side. it syours if you want it. i live kinda by cherry creek mall if you wanna arrange aplce to pick it up.
01-26-2004, 05:09 PM
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Originally posted by Jake94
If they did not take the time to run 1 x-tra wire to give you a indicator light, kind-a makes me think they did not take the time to do the whole wiring job right.
If they did not take the time to run 1 x-tra wire to give you a indicator light, kind-a makes me think they did not take the time to do the whole wiring job right.
Oh and no worries here - I didn't think you were talking down to me - I'm just wishing I knew what you were talking about as far as all the wiring and switches go.
Thanks for the input.
John
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01-26-2004, 09:00 PM
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Jake, that helps. I think I have a relay set-up. Here's some pics - I don't know if this will help at all confirm the wiring.
Locker switch - has 3 wires - 2 white & 1 green. The switch has a tiny light in it that stays lit all of the time. (Why? I never got a straight answer from ORS - just "that's how it works") The green wire goes up to the battery (the wire has a what looks like a fuse on it) the 2 white wires go up to 2 black boxes (I'm assuming they are relays)
And here are the 2 little black boxes mounted on the side of the engine campartment
And here are the 4 wires that come from the differential - they also lead into these black boxes.
Again, I don't know if this helps any but I thought I'd share these pics.
John
Locker switch - has 3 wires - 2 white & 1 green. The switch has a tiny light in it that stays lit all of the time. (Why? I never got a straight answer from ORS - just "that's how it works") The green wire goes up to the battery (the wire has a what looks like a fuse on it) the 2 white wires go up to 2 black boxes (I'm assuming they are relays)
And here are the 2 little black boxes mounted on the side of the engine campartment
And here are the 4 wires that come from the differential - they also lead into these black boxes.
Again, I don't know if this helps any but I thought I'd share these pics.
John
01-27-2004, 09:41 AM
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ok,
The switch in the dash does have one more terminal that nothing is hooked up to - so it has a total of 4 metal prongs.
I just checked and there are 5 wires coming out of each little black box.
There are still only 4 wires coming from the diff at the engine compartment - so after work I'll see if I can't figure out where that 5th wire is getting lost on it's way up to the front of the truck.
I'm confused on this part. Am I looking for 2 wires or are you talking about the area I have circled below...
If so, I have nothing hooked to that plug. If that is where I need to hook up the "lock light' can I find a plug that will fit into that somewhere local?
Thanks
John
The switch in the dash does have one more terminal that nothing is hooked up to - so it has a total of 4 metal prongs.
I just checked and there are 5 wires coming out of each little black box.
There are still only 4 wires coming from the diff at the engine compartment - so after work I'll see if I can't figure out where that 5th wire is getting lost on it's way up to the front of the truck.
Originally posted by Jake94
While you are under there look on top of the acuator (sp) motor you should see 2 unused connections, they are for the light
While you are under there look on top of the acuator (sp) motor you should see 2 unused connections, they are for the light
If so, I have nothing hooked to that plug. If that is where I need to hook up the "lock light' can I find a plug that will fit into that somewhere local?
Thanks
John
01-27-2004, 10:56 AM
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I will jump in and try help out a bit. Since your hearing a CLICK when you hit the switch. It sounds like its trying to work. If you have a helper handy have someone flip the switch and listen at the dif actuator. If you hear a humming at the actuator its getting juice. flip the switch the other way and see if you get the same humming. If you do then i think the wiring may be fine other than no lock light which is really easy to hook up. If you indeed get humming both ways its probably the actuator that is seazing not allowing full actuation.
If you have a meter handy hook it up the the switch you have circled in your last picture. have the meter set to resistance. Now go flip the switch one way.Take a look at the meter. flip the switch the other way.. If you have a reading of 0 or close to 0 then the actuator is moving to the lock position. If the meter stays open or at infinity then its not locking.
If you dont have a meter you should get one. They are relatively cheap . I simple digital multimeter will run you about 20 bucks. Without a meter its pretty difficult to troubleshoot.
OR. Pull out the actuator. Hook it up to the wires and see if its trying to move or moving but not enough. Could be as simple as a bad ground as Jake suggested earlier.
If you have a meter handy hook it up the the switch you have circled in your last picture. have the meter set to resistance. Now go flip the switch one way.Take a look at the meter. flip the switch the other way.. If you have a reading of 0 or close to 0 then the actuator is moving to the lock position. If the meter stays open or at infinity then its not locking.
If you dont have a meter you should get one. They are relatively cheap . I simple digital multimeter will run you about 20 bucks. Without a meter its pretty difficult to troubleshoot.
OR. Pull out the actuator. Hook it up to the wires and see if its trying to move or moving but not enough. Could be as simple as a bad ground as Jake suggested earlier.
Last edited by zedex; 01-27-2004 at 10:59 AM.
01-27-2004, 11:14 AM
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I don't know as much about this stuff as Jake94 (who's knowledge on this topic is truly impressive), but can tell you that the plug you have circled is for the diff lock indicator switch. You are in luck, I have a spare harness that includes that plug (just the part that connects to the diff). You can have if it you want it. Or you can order one from Toyota - I think the part number is on Phorunner.com.
Here's the modified wiring diagram I found very useful: http://pics.montypics.com/transalper...ker_wiring.jpg
As you can see from the diagram, it's very easy to set up the indicator light to work in the dash.
Lars' site has the info on how to access the correct dash bulb and tap in a wire.
http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner
All you need to do is send one wire from the diff lock indicator circuit to a ground and the other to the dash. You do not have to do the relay or hook up any positive connections because the dash light just needs to be grounded to illuminate.
It's easy to hook up a light to test the diff on the bench. It's just a grounding switch.
Good luck with your trouble-shooting.
Here's the modified wiring diagram I found very useful: http://pics.montypics.com/transalper...ker_wiring.jpg
As you can see from the diagram, it's very easy to set up the indicator light to work in the dash.
Lars' site has the info on how to access the correct dash bulb and tap in a wire.
http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner
All you need to do is send one wire from the diff lock indicator circuit to a ground and the other to the dash. You do not have to do the relay or hook up any positive connections because the dash light just needs to be grounded to illuminate.
It's easy to hook up a light to test the diff on the bench. It's just a grounding switch.
Good luck with your trouble-shooting.
Last edited by transalper; 01-28-2004 at 04:24 AM.
01-27-2004, 12:01 PM
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Zedex -- I do hear a humming / mechanical noise at the diff both turning the switch on and off. The sound is brief - not 2 seconds like I stated before. More like the same amount of time it takes to say the word "sleet". I'm not sure if that's as quick as it should be or if it is indeed losing power before it can move the mechanism completely. I think getting a muilti-meter is my next purchase.
Jay -- I'll take you up on the harness once I figure out what the problem is. Also that wiring digram, as I understand it, uses a a diff lock ECU - which unless it comes stock on a 4Runner without a factory locker, then I have never installed it.
Jake -- I will look for that ground wire. I hope it is as simple as it has come loose. But if it was just a loose wire - wouldn't the actuator motor not work at all - or even work sometime and not others - depending on how loose it was?
John
Jay -- I'll take you up on the harness once I figure out what the problem is. Also that wiring digram, as I understand it, uses a a diff lock ECU - which unless it comes stock on a 4Runner without a factory locker, then I have never installed it.
Jake -- I will look for that ground wire. I hope it is as simple as it has come loose. But if it was just a loose wire - wouldn't the actuator motor not work at all - or even work sometime and not others - depending on how loose it was?
John
01-27-2004, 01:05 PM
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Grab a meter and we can walk you through some troubleshooting techniques. Also. Put your rear tires up on some jack stands so you can manually turn the wheels to see if it locks in.
01-27-2004, 05:31 PM
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Originally posted by Mojo_Risin
Jay -- I'll take you up on the harness once I figure out what the problem is. Also that wiring digram, as I understand it, uses a a diff lock ECU - which unless it comes stock on a 4Runner without a factory locker, then I have never installed it.
John
Jay -- I'll take you up on the harness once I figure out what the problem is. Also that wiring digram, as I understand it, uses a a diff lock ECU - which unless it comes stock on a 4Runner without a factory locker, then I have never installed it.
John
You do not have the ECU on board. I found the diagram useful because it clearly shows the indicator circuit is just a grounding switch that runs a wire to the dash indicator light. Plus you may want to use it if you decide to redo the wiring and use a OEM ECU.
Last edited by transalper; 01-27-2004 at 05:33 PM.
01-27-2004, 06:33 PM
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OH CRAP!!!
So I found the ground wire, it was hooked to a screw in the crossmember of the frame. It looked pretty dirty - so I unscrewed it cleand off the contact points on the frame, screw and wire. Re-screwed in the ground wire. jacked up he truck flipped the locker button and tada when I spun the tires they both spun in the same direction - cool it seem like it's locked up. So I flip the off the locker and still the tires spinn in the same direction. Hmm. Ok, so I figure maybe I need to drive it around abit in little "s" to get it to onlock - no go. NOW I CAN'T GET IT TO UNLOCK!!! This is even worse than having it unlocked cause now I can't drive it to work tomorrow! Any ideas?
It still sounds the same - click behind the dash and a little wirring sound at the diff on both lock and unlock positions - but she's not unlocking!
1 note - as I unscrewed and rescrewed in the ground wire I could here several clicking sounds at the front of the truck. Like when I flip the switch - could I have fried something? Should I have disconnected the battery to do this?
Thanks,
John
So I found the ground wire, it was hooked to a screw in the crossmember of the frame. It looked pretty dirty - so I unscrewed it cleand off the contact points on the frame, screw and wire. Re-screwed in the ground wire. jacked up he truck flipped the locker button and tada when I spun the tires they both spun in the same direction - cool it seem like it's locked up. So I flip the off the locker and still the tires spinn in the same direction. Hmm. Ok, so I figure maybe I need to drive it around abit in little "s" to get it to onlock - no go. NOW I CAN'T GET IT TO UNLOCK!!! This is even worse than having it unlocked cause now I can't drive it to work tomorrow! Any ideas?
It still sounds the same - click behind the dash and a little wirring sound at the diff on both lock and unlock positions - but she's not unlocking!
1 note - as I unscrewed and rescrewed in the ground wire I could here several clicking sounds at the front of the truck. Like when I flip the switch - could I have fried something? Should I have disconnected the battery to do this?
Thanks,
John
Last edited by Mojo_Risin; 01-27-2004 at 07:21 PM.
01-27-2004, 08:21 PM
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MoJo,
I know this doesn't help you immediately but.
If I can get the $ for the locker I found soon and I am able to get the wiring, the ecu and the switch (which I should). I will have an extra ecu. I actually paid $50 for a used one a few months ago as I have been planning the retro.
I'll give it to you for what I paid (shipping should be nominal).
Let me know, Good Luck!
I know this doesn't help you immediately but.
If I can get the $ for the locker I found soon and I am able to get the wiring, the ecu and the switch (which I should). I will have an extra ecu. I actually paid $50 for a used one a few months ago as I have been planning the retro.
I'll give it to you for what I paid (shipping should be nominal).
Let me know, Good Luck!
01-27-2004, 08:41 PM
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Originally posted by Jake94
SEE I TOLD YOU WE WOULD GET YOU LOCKED UP!!!!!!!! I don't recall saying anything about getting you UNLOCKED!!!!!!! good luck on your drive to work in the AM it's gonna be icy!!!!!!!!! [just kidd'n you] Just jack her back up, throw the switch to unlock try spinning the tires 1st in one direction than the other. If that don't work spin one as fast as you can then grab it and try to make it stop abruptly then spin it the other way.
SEE I TOLD YOU WE WOULD GET YOU LOCKED UP!!!!!!!! I don't recall saying anything about getting you UNLOCKED!!!!!!! good luck on your drive to work in the AM it's gonna be icy!!!!!!!!! [just kidd'n you] Just jack her back up, throw the switch to unlock try spinning the tires 1st in one direction than the other. If that don't work spin one as fast as you can then grab it and try to make it stop abruptly then spin it the other way.
Thanks for all the help.
John
01-27-2004, 09:16 PM
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OR... You could reverse the wires going to the actuator. If wiring is suspect it will unlock. Since it was unlocked,now locked, reversing the wires might unlock it.
01-27-2004, 09:21 PM
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Relays make an audible click when they are doing their thing.
Sounds like the whole deal is a bad ground as Jake so quickly pointed out.
Driving with a spooled rear is not a bad deal, just be careful since it will be new and different.
Call ORS, it sounds like this is their deal to make right, or at least offer friendly advice.
Thanks for the PM.
Sounds like the whole deal is a bad ground as Jake so quickly pointed out.
Driving with a spooled rear is not a bad deal, just be careful since it will be new and different.
Call ORS, it sounds like this is their deal to make right, or at least offer friendly advice.
Thanks for the PM.
01-28-2004, 09:10 AM
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Ok, I called ORS. He said first and foremost if it is a wiring problem - they would take care of it. So at least they stand behind their work.
However, he seemed to think that the way I wwas describing it, the motor might be gummed up- and needing a cleaning and lube job. He said to pull the actuator off and clean it out.
So... I'm not 100% sure what all I need to pull off. & it sounds like I have to be careful about lining something back up.
John
However, he seemed to think that the way I wwas describing it, the motor might be gummed up- and needing a cleaning and lube job. He said to pull the actuator off and clean it out.
So... I'm not 100% sure what all I need to pull off. & it sounds like I have to be careful about lining something back up.
John
