e-locker wiring help needed
08-05-2004, 01:49 PM
#1
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e-locker wiring help needed
I understand this for the most part, but I have a couple questions:
1. The "RR diff lock" switch that I "stole" from my donor rig only has 2 wires coming out of the plug. Why does this diagram show 4?
2. The switch in the lower right corner of this diagram, can someone tell me what that is? Is it homemade?
http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/e...ker_wiring.jpg
Wiring sucks!
Thanks for the help.
1. The "RR diff lock" switch that I "stole" from my donor rig only has 2 wires coming out of the plug. Why does this diagram show 4?
2. The switch in the lower right corner of this diagram, can someone tell me what that is? Is it homemade?
http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/e...ker_wiring.jpg
Wiring sucks!
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 08-06-2004 at 06:07 AM.
08-05-2004, 05:52 PM
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http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photo...sort/1/cat/500
NOTE* I didn't create the image in the above link, but found it during one of my searches and forgot where I got it from.
NOTE* I didn't create the image in the above link, but found it during one of my searches and forgot where I got it from.
Last edited by BruceTS; 08-06-2004 at 05:08 AM.
08-05-2004, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Sorry, one last question:
When I go to Radio Shack and ask for a "diode" what exactly am I looking for? Any particular specifications?
When I go to Radio Shack and ask for a "diode" what exactly am I looking for? Any particular specifications?
Matt
08-06-2004, 04:12 AM
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Wires and switches
Hi 96 Runner,
I'm not sure if you have your answer yet, but I'll tell you what I know (or think I do...).
1-The 2 extra wires on the RR Diff Lock switch are to illuminate the RR Diff switch itself. In the diagram it is wired to the dash lights so that the brightness can be controlled with the dim switch for the dash lights.
2-The switch in lower right hand corner is simply the factory limit switch (or position switch if you prefer) for you locker. It tells the ECU that you are locked or unlocked. If you look at the E-locker there is a 5 pin connector to the servo motor and a 2 pin connector for the limit swith. The difference between the Locked/Free/Ground switch in the same box as the diff lock motor in the diagram and this one is that the position switch is used to detecd if you are locked or not. The Locked/Free/Ground swith next to the motor is used to control power to the diff lock motor and turn it off when it is in position. Does that make any sense to you or did I just confuse everything?
I'm in the midst of making a control unit and wiring harness using a factory RR Diff Lock switch and ECU myself. I believe that I have managed to decipher what all the wires do.
Cheers!
I'm not sure if you have your answer yet, but I'll tell you what I know (or think I do...).
1-The 2 extra wires on the RR Diff Lock switch are to illuminate the RR Diff switch itself. In the diagram it is wired to the dash lights so that the brightness can be controlled with the dim switch for the dash lights.
2-The switch in lower right hand corner is simply the factory limit switch (or position switch if you prefer) for you locker. It tells the ECU that you are locked or unlocked. If you look at the E-locker there is a 5 pin connector to the servo motor and a 2 pin connector for the limit swith. The difference between the Locked/Free/Ground switch in the same box as the diff lock motor in the diagram and this one is that the position switch is used to detecd if you are locked or not. The Locked/Free/Ground swith next to the motor is used to control power to the diff lock motor and turn it off when it is in position. Does that make any sense to you or did I just confuse everything?
I'm in the midst of making a control unit and wiring harness using a factory RR Diff Lock switch and ECU myself. I believe that I have managed to decipher what all the wires do.
Cheers!
08-06-2004, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by p1michaud
I'm in the midst of making a control unit and wiring harness using a factory RR Diff Lock switch and ECU myself. I believe that I have managed to decipher what all the wires do.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Originally Posted by BruceTS
Here's a breakdown on the mechanics of the E-Locker:
When you activate the RR switch it sends 12v, pin #4 Green/Yellow, to the Locker ECU. The ECU then checks to see if Pin #8 the Grey wire(Blue/Red on 4Runners) is grounded or in 4WL, then checks to see if the Speed sensor, pin #10 the green/orange is below 5MPH, at the same time it activates the flashing RR light pin #1 Yellow/Blue wire. If these conditions are met, then it does a check with a switch in the E-Locker at the axle pin #9 to make sure it's grounded (locker dis-engaged). If all these conditions are met it activate's Relay 1(inside the ECU) switching it from being grounded to supplying 12v to pin #3 the Light Green wire. At this point the E-Locker motor starts turning, moving a shift fork to lock the diff, if the teeth don't line up, the locker won't engage until there is some movement, which is why you turn slightly. Once the fork shifts fully over, the switch opens the circuit to pin #9 and grounds pin #6 the Light Green/Black wire and turns the power off the Relay 1 grounding pin #3, stopping the motor, as well as closing another switch the Yellow/Blue to turn the RR light solid, now the E-Locker if fully engaged.
When you turn off the switch, it goes through the same checks, but with a few differences, since pin #6 is now grounded and no power is at pin #4 the ECU activates Relay 2(inside the ECU) switching pin #2 Light Green/Red from ground to power, reversing the motor, unlocking the diff, again moving slowly in a slight turn the locker will help. Then pin #6 is opened and pin #9 is grounded, shutting off Relay 2 and the lock detection switch in the e-locker is opened turning off the RR light.
Pin #5 Black/White or Black/Yellow is the main power
Pin #7 Wihte/Black is ground
Another note* The ABS is deactivated when the Locker is on(ABS light)
If I made any mistakes in operations let me know. Recently my e-locker failed to work, so I did some reverse engineering to learn about it's operation. Turns out my harness going to the axle got cut somehow, that I didn't spot during my first inspection, but eventually found during my diagnosis.
When you activate the RR switch it sends 12v, pin #4 Green/Yellow, to the Locker ECU. The ECU then checks to see if Pin #8 the Grey wire(Blue/Red on 4Runners) is grounded or in 4WL, then checks to see if the Speed sensor, pin #10 the green/orange is below 5MPH, at the same time it activates the flashing RR light pin #1 Yellow/Blue wire. If these conditions are met, then it does a check with a switch in the E-Locker at the axle pin #9 to make sure it's grounded (locker dis-engaged). If all these conditions are met it activate's Relay 1(inside the ECU) switching it from being grounded to supplying 12v to pin #3 the Light Green wire. At this point the E-Locker motor starts turning, moving a shift fork to lock the diff, if the teeth don't line up, the locker won't engage until there is some movement, which is why you turn slightly. Once the fork shifts fully over, the switch opens the circuit to pin #9 and grounds pin #6 the Light Green/Black wire and turns the power off the Relay 1 grounding pin #3, stopping the motor, as well as closing another switch the Yellow/Blue to turn the RR light solid, now the E-Locker if fully engaged.
When you turn off the switch, it goes through the same checks, but with a few differences, since pin #6 is now grounded and no power is at pin #4 the ECU activates Relay 2(inside the ECU) switching pin #2 Light Green/Red from ground to power, reversing the motor, unlocking the diff, again moving slowly in a slight turn the locker will help. Then pin #6 is opened and pin #9 is grounded, shutting off Relay 2 and the lock detection switch in the e-locker is opened turning off the RR light.
Pin #5 Black/White or Black/Yellow is the main power
Pin #7 Wihte/Black is ground
Another note* The ABS is deactivated when the Locker is on(ABS light)
If I made any mistakes in operations let me know. Recently my e-locker failed to work, so I did some reverse engineering to learn about it's operation. Turns out my harness going to the axle got cut somehow, that I didn't spot during my first inspection, but eventually found during my diagnosis.
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08-06-2004, 06:05 AM
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Jake-
So do you agree with Bruce's posted schematics in the sense that if I follow that diagram (in his first post) the locker will work? If not, then I need to do some research before I start soldering further. Let me know, thanks!
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/phot.../sort/1/cat/500
So do you agree with Bruce's posted schematics in the sense that if I follow that diagram (in his first post) the locker will work? If not, then I need to do some research before I start soldering further. Let me know, thanks!
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/phot.../sort/1/cat/500
08-06-2004, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake94
but I'm still trying to figure out the diode thing.
08-06-2004, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Jake-
So do you agree with Bruce's posted schematics in the sense that if I follow that diagram (in his first post) the locker will work? If not, then I need to do some research before I start soldering further. Let me know, thanks!
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/phot.../sort/1/cat/500
So do you agree with Bruce's posted schematics in the sense that if I follow that diagram (in his first post) the locker will work? If not, then I need to do some research before I start soldering further. Let me know, thanks!
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/phot.../sort/1/cat/500
As for the diodes, they act like a one-way valve and are just an added safety feature.
BTW if the image doesn't show, click my signature and it'll take you to my photo album where you can get to the diagram.
08-06-2004, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
BTW if the image doesn't show, click my signature and it'll take you to my photo album where you can get to the diagram.
So what type of resistor should I get?
08-06-2004, 10:53 AM
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Locker wiring.
Thanks for the info guys. I agree with you BruceTS and Jake94, I guess that my explanation did not come out as well as I had hoped. I read your post and agree with it, I just had different terminology. Regardless I have it straight in my head wich is the important part...
Would any of you guys have pics of the finished locker harness? I'm just curious to see. Also, how much wire (length) are you leaving from the diff wiring harness to the ECU in your driver kick pannel?
Cheers!
Would any of you guys have pics of the finished locker harness? I'm just curious to see. Also, how much wire (length) are you leaving from the diff wiring harness to the ECU in your driver kick pannel?
Cheers!
08-06-2004, 10:57 AM
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I have about 6ft of 10 guage wiring. I am only running it to under the drivers seat. My Clifford alarm resides in the footwell. 
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 08-06-2004 at 11:00 AM.
08-06-2004, 06:30 PM
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Ok guys, I am still having a hard time. Following Bruce's posted schematic, here is where I am right now:
IGN 12V power to 10A and 20A wires: OK
GND (7), 4WD (8), LOCK GND: ALL OK
Power (11.72V tested) to RR Diff Lock switch: OK
Power from RR Diff Lock switch to "R" (4) on ECU: OK
So my question is, with the RR Diff Lock button pressed in and power getting to the ECU, there are no other wires leaving the ECU (REL 1, REL 2, M1, M2) with power. Now I am no electrical wizard, but common sense tells me that REL 1, REL 2, M1, M2 all should have some power getting to them.
Am I right?
Please help. This is driving me nuts!
And just to clarify, I am not dealing with the Locked Light right now. I assume that has nothing to do with the diff locking.
IGN 12V power to 10A and 20A wires: OK
GND (7), 4WD (8), LOCK GND: ALL OK
Power (11.72V tested) to RR Diff Lock switch: OK
Power from RR Diff Lock switch to "R" (4) on ECU: OK
So my question is, with the RR Diff Lock button pressed in and power getting to the ECU, there are no other wires leaving the ECU (REL 1, REL 2, M1, M2) with power. Now I am no electrical wizard, but common sense tells me that REL 1, REL 2, M1, M2 all should have some power getting to them.
Am I right?
Please help. This is driving me nuts!
And just to clarify, I am not dealing with the Locked Light right now. I assume that has nothing to do with the diff locking.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 08-06-2004 at 06:33 PM.
08-06-2004, 06:59 PM
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Yes, they are grounded. See, my issue is that I do not think any power is getting to the locker right now - otherwise I would get some juice from some of the wires leaving the ECU and heading to the locker - right? I mean, something has to tell it to turn on. That is why I don't get it. I took my multi-meter and checked each connector leaving the ECU, and nothing was hot.
08-06-2004, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
...As for the diodes, they act like a one-way valve and are just an added safety feature....
Diodes couple to a ground state if enough amperage or voltage is applied.
M2 should be hot when the circuit is engergize. Using one voltage meter lead to ground and the other should should show hot, right?
Here's a service manual shot of the elocker wiring
Notice how http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/e...ker_wiring.jpg M3 should be M1.
Last edited by amusement; 08-06-2004 at 07:56 PM.
08-06-2004, 08:57 PM
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Jake-
I am being pushed in that direction, trust me. I gave up for tonight. Maybe I will hit it again tomorrow.
Again, I am concerned that no power is reaching the locker - at all.
I am being pushed in that direction, trust me. I gave up for tonight. Maybe I will hit it again tomorrow.
Again, I am concerned that no power is reaching the locker - at all.
08-07-2004, 09:26 AM
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I think this is the best setup ... keep it simple ... my favoriate plan 'A'.
http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/locker.jpeg
Note: Inch Worm has been installing Toy elockers for years so .. if they don't have a relay then why should you. Food for thought.
But, if you have a desire for relays take a look at Mike Carter's setup
http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runne...r/circuit3.gif
http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/locker.jpeg
Note: Inch Worm has been installing Toy elockers for years so .. if they don't have a relay then why should you. Food for thought.
But, if you have a desire for relays take a look at Mike Carter's setup
http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runne...r/circuit3.gif
