Ritzy4Runner

I searched the forums and didn't really find the answer to my questoins so here it goes; Most of you here have seen some of my mods and write ups. I am somewhat "mechnically inclined". I am considering installing a Toyota OEM e-Locker in my 1998 SR5 4WD 4Runner w/ ABS non-locker. I just checked with Toyota and my gear ratio is 4.10. The issue for me is I want to install as close to OEM as I can. Install Toyota parts as I do have a warranty that is still in effect so at a minimum I want to use Toyota parts but even still I may wait till the after market warranty expires. I can rip out the interior of my truck and route the needed wires that need to be added to the harness, add pins to plugs, re-pin connectors, install harness wiring and switches. I can turn a pretty good wrench and should have most all the hand tools I need to remove and install the rear end. So here in are the questions: 1. Not too sure of the what will be totally involved and to add to the dilemna, I just had the seals in the rear axle replaced along with the brakes. If I keep the OEM axle housing I currently have, what mods would I have to do to the housing to install the donor e-locker (3rd member?) and what parts would I need? Is it a simple unbolt/bolt replacement with the associated wiring hookups? 2. Should I swap out the present rear end with a corresponding gear ratio e-locker rear end? What things will I need to watch for and check when inspecting a possible donor rear end? These are the only real options I am considering as I still have a warranty on the truck so this stuff has to be OEM. An air locker is not an option I would care to pursue (cost issues along with resale value). Grinding, cutting, welding are not options available to me either. And as with everyone (for the most part) cash is a consideration. Read a few write ups and the answers to these questions are not totally answered. The wiring is not going to be a big deal, like I said, I can re-pin connectors, route wires and install switches, solder, crimp etc. Thanks to everyone who replies. The knowledge base here is the absolute BEST! I have gotten so much wonderful advice and instruction for so many here and thats why when I do a write up, I am so meticulous with the pics and such as I know it helps someone else when they come to doing the same mod. Once again, Thank you for your knowledge and assistance. Corey, I know this is off topic, but if you read this, PM me with how I can send some money to the site to help sponsor, don't have alot but I would like to send something.

This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

__________________
98 4Runner SR5 "Limited" 3.4 V6, Automatic-Field Monitor Unit, Auto Dimming Mirror w/Compass & Temp, Reverse Silver gauges, JDM tail lights & signals, Corner Light turn signal mod, Center Console Cup holder Mod w/ LEDs, auxillary fuse panel, Hella 550's, Land Cruiser Hydraulic hood lifts, Engine Bay lites, Taurus Fan mod w/ indicators, 2000 headlight mod, '99 grill ......
2000 Celica GT, 'SydJUce'
"Life is a journey, don't forget to pack."

pkt1213

If you keep you present axel you're going to have to grind and move a few of the studs. I would swap the axels.

Good write up on Sonoran Steel website.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html

I have been thinking about doing this for quite a while. The wife keeps changing her mind if we're going to keep the truck or not.

__________________
If it has tits or tires it'll give you problems.

98 4runner - SR5, 4x4, 5 speed
The Probe, CJ5, G20 and Porsche are all sold.

Right now everythings a 4x4 or 6x6. MRAPs, 916s, HMMWV, FMTVs and anything else with amror.

TC4RNR

here's another one from Bob's site

http://www.4runners.org/writeups/elocker/

__________________
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...gca/agreed.jpg
94 4Runner, SR5 3.0V6, 4WD, 5spd: SOLD
99 4Runner, SR5, 3.4L 4WD, 5spd. LC80 wheels, SS 1.2 lift, Marlin 1200 Clutch, ARB front bumper, BruceTS rear bumper, roof busket, hitch mount tire carrier, Tundra Brakes, Brembo rotors, BudBuilt skid, Lightforce 240 Blitz, PiAA HID, Stubb's HD-SKO sliders. ScanGauge II

04 4Runner SR5 V6 4WD. 265/75/16 BFG KO, FJC coils and silver Bilstein shocks, Scion H/U.

Rock Slide

Ritzy, from the 2 posts above, those are the 2 most popular links you will need to get started.

I had researched doing this mod on my '02, but decided against it. For yours, it's very straight forward. If I were you, I'd just straight swap the axles...much easier that way.

Here's even more info you can read up on when I posted a thread about it on UY: http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=5156.0

__________________
2002 4Runner Sport 4WD

My 4Runner Profile

Accessories: SS 7.1 Lift Kit, WabFab 1" BL, TJM T15, Stubb Sliders, FX/TSX HID Projector Retrofit, 1st Gen Rollbar, Tundra Brake Upgrade, Hilux Surf Field Monitor, TRD Ivan Stewart Wheels, Nitto TG 265/75s, WeatherTechs, Hella HID 4000s, LED Tail Lights, JBL Speakers

Mods: Disabled DRLs, Disabled Keyless Entry Chirp, Disabled VTRAC/VSC/ABS, Fog Light Mod, Air Elbow Mod & Rear Diff Breather Mod

"Why fix a Jeep, when you can drive a Toyota?"

BigBallsMcFalls

find a wre4cked limited, toss the ass of that into yours...done

apalmer1

yeah you need to grind out part of the housing to fit the actuator then weld and grind then drill and tap two more stud holes.

theres some e-lockers for sale here on bend craigslist 350 each bad ring and pinions, still a steal though.

__________________
04 taco, 3.4 5spd. loads of goodies, FZJ80 axle SAS in progress.
85 pickup, 327sbc, truggy, in progress.
86 mazda b2000 street queen haha.
92 mazda B2600i 4x4 absolutely mobs.
81 ford bronco drinks gas
90 mazda mx-5 all original.

when in doubt, tach it out.

Ritzy4Runner

Thanks guys much more interesting stuff here. I read the links and the process. In my case I think I need to find a recently wrecked 4runner with the eLocker and just get the whole rear end, would be much simplier. Will have to save up a bit of extra cash. Looks like I need a bit of overtime! Thanks and any more suggestions are always welcome.

__________________
98 4Runner SR5 "Limited" 3.4 V6, Automatic-Field Monitor Unit, Auto Dimming Mirror w/Compass & Temp, Reverse Silver gauges, JDM tail lights & signals, Corner Light turn signal mod, Center Console Cup holder Mod w/ LEDs, auxillary fuse panel, Hella 550's, Land Cruiser Hydraulic hood lifts, Engine Bay lites, Taurus Fan mod w/ indicators, 2000 headlight mod, '99 grill ......
2000 Celica GT, 'SydJUce'
"Life is a journey, don't forget to pack."

misterzee

It will prolly take you a while and a good bit of luck to find the whole rear housing wth the e-locker.
I think the TRD taco's show up in salvage with elockers, I wonder if that diff housing is compatible with a 3rd gen?
Having done ONE elocker conversion on my 87 4Runner, I can tell you the modification to the diff housing is not a big deal. Its a deal, just not a big one. keep in mind, you can find a used chunk, but you're still staring at a bearing kit, gear set, and labor to get it ready to install. I got my TRD locker for $250 from a friend, had 4000 miles on it, but spent an additional $500+ to get it geared up to my desired ratio. I used an old pinion as a punch to bang out the bulge into the housing needed for clearance for a bolt on the carrier... a little 4" angle grinder from home depot to grind out the openin on the housing for the motor and fork, studs from Toyota, and simple location, drill, tap the studs. Then wash everything REALLY well! Some relays and trailer wire and switches for a simple controller... ther'es plenty of rescources and write ups on line to guide you thru each process.
The only puzzling thing about my project was; its written up that a V6 first gen rear is beefier and does not need the housing clearancing... but I got my donor housing from an 89 V6 4Runner, and it had the same dimensions as my 4banger 4Runner.

__________________
85, 87 (SAS), 88 (on loan), 96 4Runners, all males...
03 Town and Country... female
CLIK4PIX

sharrack

Hate to sound like a complete dope but can anyone direct me to a link or explain what the e-locker does and the best times to use it?

Thanks .kenny S>

Rock Slide

The e-locker is just an electronic selectable locker. With a push of a button, you can lock the rear diff. Push it again and you unlock it. It's similar to an ARB air locker, just w/o the air.

When to use it you ask...simple - when wheelin' and maximum traction is needed. It's not something you want to use on dry pavement.

__________________
2002 4Runner Sport 4WD

My 4Runner Profile

Accessories: SS 7.1 Lift Kit, WabFab 1" BL, TJM T15, Stubb Sliders, FX/TSX HID Projector Retrofit, 1st Gen Rollbar, Tundra Brake Upgrade, Hilux Surf Field Monitor, TRD Ivan Stewart Wheels, Nitto TG 265/75s, WeatherTechs, Hella HID 4000s, LED Tail Lights, JBL Speakers

Mods: Disabled DRLs, Disabled Keyless Entry Chirp, Disabled VTRAC/VSC/ABS, Fog Light Mod, Air Elbow Mod & Rear Diff Breather Mod

"Why fix a Jeep, when you can drive a Toyota?"

BigBallsMcFalls

here is a practical example of how to use it.


I have a driveway to my cabin, 1 mile long, and my stock 4runner has 11 inches clearance. this road is bony, rockey, rooty, and stumpy. I drive -s l o w- up the trail as I creep in 4wd low. the trail is steep and twisty but nice and slow I can get up there and only scrape my skidplates and hitch once in a while.

now 4wd low is great, but there is a wet stump up ahead and when I creep over that I will spin and sit there. If I hit it at 6mph I would fly over it but I creep as to not damage my rig. so I spin, 4wd is useless when one back wheel is spinning and one front is spinning.

so, I activate the locker. it may not engage instantly but I slowly back 2 feet then creep forward 2 feet then clang, it engages. once engaged both rear wheels are locked together and I am no longer stuck, I proceed forward.

if I -do- still spin, both wheels moving will make the rear end seek traction, the ass end of my 4runner will wiggle and grab what it can. I just do not get stuck anymore having a locker. also, when I am towing big drags, i don't get stuck. I used the locker when i am building trails and
collecting rocks I can't carry by hand. a ford f150 4wd couldn't drag this rock up a hill, but my 4runner did it fine. I have a locker. The locker is King.

http://www.yotatech.com/attachments/...-img_19613.jpg


so...the above is a practical example. I go slow, slow makes you stuck in some slippery stuff.

in any other example, the same applies. if you get stuck in 4wd, try the locker and if you are gonna get moving, the locker will do it.

berzerkrobot

Dude just get a Detroit locker and dont worry about silly air compressors or electric motors. It's self-contained within the diff. and goes on exactly when it needs to, and turns off when you are in turns. Plus they are a lot less exspensive than air lockers and e-lockers.

Plus, no need for an axel swap

BigBallsMcFalls

detroit locker bad for around town.

good for farm, not so good for rock crawling

berzerkrobot

have you heard of the detroit softlocker? They have no backlash or clunking. also, why would you say they arnt good for rock crawling? They go 100% lock and Im told are very durable.

rocket

Read the thread.

Ritzy,
I once had the same dilemma and thought about a Detroit but ruled it out as my 4runner will be driven frequently. Anyone should know a selectable locker is definitely the way to go.
For the wiring I'll be using an ORS harness...it's basically plug and play. Your own choice of switch can added too, buy the one you want and they'll use it.

Yes, If you have the patience to wait and continuously search, that would be your least painful and simple swap.

Rust? Leaking diff/bearing seals...otherwise nothing. Finding one is the hardest part...fortunately it's becoming easier as these 3rd gens are aging. If your lucky enough to find one, snatch it up!

It would be nice to have the factory gauge cluster illuminate with a tiny 'RR-diff' light but that does require a lot more work.
The "new" ORS or even Inchworm's harness will do the same -at the switch.

__________________
'96-'02
gone: '92

BigBallsMcFalls

sometimes you want locked and the self-aware unit in the back will unlock
on you, then you slide and smack into something.

either a real user controlled locker, or it's a farm tool for traction in predictable conditions. sure 80% of the time it will be fine but I wouldn't want to be balancing on 2 wheels looking at a canyon wall with a detriot locker


plus a detroit locker will wear the heck out of your tires front and back, if it is your daily road vehicle

toytim

Selectable locker is the way to go if its your daily driver! I have recentley put an elockr in my 97 runner i went with a complete axle swap as i did gears at the same time. went from 4.10 to 4.56 with the toy elocker I ordered the ORS elocker harness and have yet to recieve it but i spent quite some time doing research and figured that would be the easiest route without tapping into my original harness or stripping my interior in search of wires. Toyota did make a few dif harnesses for the runner and you may have the wiring there already..

__________________
Woof Woof!

berzerkrobot

BigBalls, Im sure if you talked to anyone on here with a detroit or aussie they'd tell you their locker never caused a crash while offroading...

But, I do see your point about having 100% control over it, but I guess for me paying so much more and adding extra components that can fail dont seem worth it.

About the tire wear, Im personally coming from a BMW m3 with an LSD and extremely soft tires, so I guess its just normal for me. I got about 10k out of my last pair of Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3s... :/

__________________
'97 T4R SR5 4x4 | Detroit Lock'd Rear Diff | Toytec lift w/OME shocks | Diff Drop | 33" Cooper STTs on 15x8s | Glasswerks Unlimited 4.5" prerunner flares | Rear control arm skids |10lb co2 onboard air tank w/regulator | Hella FF1000s | Custom steel front and rear bumpers, Line-X'd | Custom steel rock sliders | Air Intake Mod

etan

BigBallsMcfalls. i don't think you fully know what you're talking about. that explanation of how a locker works is horrible. SHARRACK here's a link to get you started on locker info....
http://www.yotatech.com/f31/understa...lockers-70952/

__________________
98runna
lifted and locked.

berzerkrobot

x2 etan...

__________________
'97 T4R SR5 4x4 | Detroit Lock'd Rear Diff | Toytec lift w/OME shocks | Diff Drop | 33" Cooper STTs on 15x8s | Glasswerks Unlimited 4.5" prerunner flares | Rear control arm skids |10lb co2 onboard air tank w/regulator | Hella FF1000s | Custom steel front and rear bumpers, Line-X'd | Custom steel rock sliders | Air Intake Mod

sharrack

Thanks guys,
How is the locker in the snow?
any advantage......... or more problems?
Kenny S>

berzerkrobot

Sharrack: Any sort of Locker or limited slip diff is much better in the snow, ice, mud, or any other slippery condition than a regular open diff., because it keeps traction to both tires. If you were in snow with a regular diff and one tire breaks traction, 100% of the power is transfered to the tire that is freespining, which wont help you much, because, duh it has no traction. So you rig becomes one wheel drive (if you have it in 2wd) A locker in the same condition would lock the halfshafts in the axel, and both tires will turn. If they do both start to slip, the rear end will at least move around a little to seek traction - something an open diff is not capable of because one wheel on the axel is planted in the snow, not moving.

__________________
'97 T4R SR5 4x4 | Detroit Lock'd Rear Diff | Toytec lift w/OME shocks | Diff Drop | 33" Cooper STTs on 15x8s | Glasswerks Unlimited 4.5" prerunner flares | Rear control arm skids |10lb co2 onboard air tank w/regulator | Hella FF1000s | Custom steel front and rear bumpers, Line-X'd | Custom steel rock sliders | Air Intake Mod

Midget96

I would totally sell you my rear e-locked ass end if you didn't live so far away. Everything works perfectly except for the locker ECU which died about 4 months ago. The electronics for these things are the biggest liability on the trail. TTORA has a write up on how to by pass all of it and just use a DPDT switch.

For the record, I found it to be all but worthless for the trails and such I run in my truck. Used it maybe 7-8 times in 2 1/2 years on trails all over the Southwest US.

etan

sharrak what berzerk says is correct that the power is directed to the wheel with the least resistance. a locker can be very helpful if you're offroading. very very helpful. but daily driving in the snow/icy winter conditions with a locked rig is very questionable because in turning tires obviously spin at a different rate from eachother. if a rig is locked the tires will spin at the same rate therefore creating a high chance of the truck breaking free from traction and sliding. that's why guys desire a selectable locker (elocker, arb) because they can control when the are locked and not leave it up to the locker. with an automatic locker you really have to get a feel how the truck reacts to how you drive then you can predict more of less how the truck is going to drive during winter times.

my friend has the newer detroit locker and his driving is conservative but even when he pushes hard the detroit doesn't give him any problems of being locked when it is not supposed to be.

__________________
98runna
lifted and locked.

berzerkrobot

I STRONGLY feel if you dont suck at driving this is not an issue. Maybe its just because my other car has LSD so im used it. Neither wheel can spin faster than the driveshaft, so as long as you dont start spining AND THEN floor it, i think you'll find a locker is still a better option than being stranded because one tire is sitting on ice.

Perhaps Detroits arnt for anyone, but the only people I have ever heard complain about them have never had one

Ritzy, sorry if we turned this into an auto locker debate :S

__________________
'97 T4R SR5 4x4 | Detroit Lock'd Rear Diff | Toytec lift w/OME shocks | Diff Drop | 33" Cooper STTs on 15x8s | Glasswerks Unlimited 4.5" prerunner flares | Rear control arm skids |10lb co2 onboard air tank w/regulator | Hella FF1000s | Custom steel front and rear bumpers, Line-X'd | Custom steel rock sliders | Air Intake Mod