Hyperlite

I have some issues with my rear shaft. I was replacing the center bearing of the double cardan when I relized that there is no replacement available for the U-joints. I replaced the rear (pinion side) and every u-joint I find for the front 2 has a cap that is a couple millimeters to big. A lady a toyota told me that toyota made them this way to discourage peeps from servicing their shafts. A new one from the stealership is $860 I want to go to Tellico in a couple of weeks and am tight on $ so a custom one is out of the question, A 2nd gen shaft will work if I remove the t-case flange, but my brother won't let me steel his. I am going to grind the yokes out and the double cardan to fit the new u-joints. Has anyone ever had this problem before?
I don't really care about modifing it I just want to wheel.....

BruceTS

can you measure the OD of the original u-joints?

See if they are 28 mm or 1 1/8" ....

heckler

Are sure only one is slightly bigger because on conversion ujoints two are the same and the other two are slightly bigger.

Albuquerque Jim

Junk yard? Or is it a custom length?

Hyperlite

Heckler, I got the one to fit in the rear of the shaft, however it is the 2 that are bigger in the cardan joint.

Jim, might as well try to drill these out a little to see if it works if it doesn't work, I guess I go to a junkyard.

Bruce, the OD of the original joint is 28mm and the closest I can get is 29mm. It almost fits, however I pounded a new bigger joint into the yoke and it would not turn at all. After I removed it it seems the pressure bent the cap and the neddle barings are now screwed up. Not to get off topic, but whats up with your custom rear suspension????

BruceTS

go here to get the 28mm one's;
http://www.replacementautoparts.com/...253-646_6.html

As for my rear suspension, I'm collecting up all the parts, just got my Heim joints last week and will have Kartek fabricate my links when I'm ready. I'm going down today to pick up some more metal to fabricate my jig to separate the CV axles and extra 3/16 and 1/4 plate to make my mounts. I still need to relocate my fuel tank before I install my lower link mounts. I have a few home improvement projects that I need to complete first, before I can tackle the tank fabrication.

Hyperlite

Great find, however I am in a pinch and need the shaft to work today and I wanted to upgrade to an easy to find U-Joint. I am still considering drilling it out bigger.
I can get 1/4 chromoly heim joint for dirt cheep and custom length threaded tubes. I also got the hookup on fuel cells and am gonna cut a hole in my cargo area and fit it in there. I already replaced my crossmember when I built my bumper. But I guess that's another topic.
BTW I saw your unit in a total chaos ad in a 4wd mag.

BruceTS

Make sure you get the high grades heim joints, not the cheap one's, they've gotten a bad reputation for not lasting because of this. I'm using the FK brand, 7/8 thread, 3/4 bolt size, HRSMX Series Rod Ends with Teflon Liners for the lower links and 3/4 heims for the uppers. The links will be made from .250 wall moly tubing that will be threaded for the rod ends, instead of having bungs welded on.

Hyperlite

Thes are 3/4 with 7/8 thread and are currently used in drag, NASCAR and dirt cars. They are rated at 20k, I think they should do, what do you think? These are the rear links for my brothers 4Runner.

BruceTS

The heims should have some letters and numbers stamped on them, can you see what they say and post back. I'll be able to tell more about them, those links look pretty, but what is their thickness and what are they made out of, from the picture, they don't appear that beefy.

As for your original question, Marlin sells a flange that is drilled for both type of drive shafts; http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/flange_500.jpg