mazaa

Hello First Time Poster here.

I have a 98T4R 4x4 and I am doing the TB and WP for the 1st time, I have taken everything off upto the water pump.

The kit I bought also included the lower Pulley and the black T shaped tensioner, well how do I take off the T shaped tensioner visible in the first picture on the left hand side?

The cam and crank seals are also included but my understanding is not to screw with them unless needed?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

There is a write up on here on a complete timing job. Google search for it. How many miles on the tensioner? are you gonna replace the crank and cam seals?

To replace the tensioner you need to unbolt the ac pump strap it out of way then unbolt the bracket. Then you will have access to both bolts that hold the tensioner.

mazaa

My truck has almost 225K, I bought a Service Kit as pictured and trying to replace as much as I can and in line with my experience.

I would not have made it this far without the many write ups, however they usually tackle the TB and WP only and compress the tensioner rather than replace it, I am trying to gauge how much extra work it would be as I need to it this weekend

rworegon

Have you seen the post with this link? It is a very complete write-up. Here's another from a different forum with lots of pics that may help too.

Take note of step 21...if you decide to re-use the tensioner (I'd change it) you either need that special tool to compress the tensioner to re-set the grenade pin or you need to remove the tensioner and compress it in a vise.

Bottom line: take the time to replace the tensioner with the new one.

Is that oil on the face of the oil pump? May be time to change out the seals too.

Also, 1) be prepared to torque the crank bolt to 217 ft-lbs and 2) when replacing the thermostat the jiggle valve goes in the down 6 0'clock position.

mazaa

I just took off the compressor bracket and now have easy access to the tensioner, last two bolts before I can start to put things back together. BTW I have a pre-compressed tensioner in the kit and will be replacing all items in the kit but the seals.

The WP was leaking into the bottom TB cover and there was road grime mixed with coolant in there. I am not sure if the seal was leaking, I will readup some more on it tonight and see if that is the case, and how much extra work it is

I have a torque wrench that goes to 250 ft-lbs and I also made a tool to hold the harmonic balancer, will also be using some blue thread locker for peace of mind.

Yep, n how can I forget a name like jiggle valve and its orientation

rworegon

I use a holder of the same design...it gets the job done.
Hardest thing sometimes with doing the crank seal is getting the crank timing gear to slide off. I generally use a puller on it as mine has two threaded holes in it. Be careful...those teeth on the timing ring are very soft and if one breaks off you'll be replacing the timing gear.

Jiggle valve is Toyota's term for it right out of the FSM. We have a thread around here that documents a 10 degree increase in coolant temp when it's in the 12 o'clock position on the 5vz-fe 3.4l engine. No one knows why, but it was reproducible for multiple members.

mazaa

Finished putting the Tensioner, the compressor bracket and the compressor back on last night used a little anti seize for next time.

I have already done a cleaning job of the mating surface, covers, bolts etc.
Starting with the
gasket, wp, thermostat, then the two bearings, the crank pulley, so I can set the engine to TDC with the old belt....
Then remove the crank pulley again, put the new belt and the TB cover back on then the Pulley again...

mazaa

I decided not to do the Seals at this time, I will keep an eye if they are actually leaking, the WP did have a bad leak I wish I had tackled the job few months ago

rworegon

Many do the same on the seals.

You may want to think about flushing the brake fluid...noticed yours looks nearly black. Fresh fluid is nearly clear to amber.

I find it easiest to fill the block up with coolant through the upper radiator hose before attaching the hose to the rad. It helps to minimize air bubbles.

For TDC, just bring both cams and crank to their respective TDC marks and install the new TB. No need to mess with the old belt (and least I don't except to wrap old TB around the crank to remove the crank bolt after setting crank TDC). It's a non-interference engine to you can move the cams either direction.

Remember, passenger side is right and driver side is left if the belt is marked with R/L alignment marks. I use spring clamps to hold the belt on the cams while fiddling with getting it on the cam.

mazaa

The gasket that came with the WP is of paper type material not metal as stated in some of the DIY, could this be bad?

For the TDC, I should just install the new belt and rotate the pulley clockwise until all marks lineup, correct?

PS: I have exceeded my limit for pics seem like it

Good eyes about the brake fluid, yes shortly I have do the rear brakes with full flushing of the system, I had done the Tundra caliper/rotor upgrade when I got the truck, and it has not been done since.

Also on the to do list are Tacoma LBJs and Safari Steering Rack (I think)

mazaa

O I forgot to mention one more thing, since the truck had the green coolant initially, I want to run distilled water for couple of days flush then one more time with distilled water and then Toyota red coolant, per my reading that should be ok

rworegon

No! You suggest the wrong approach on the TB. Get the cams and crank aligned to the TDC marks BEFORE putting on the TB. After the TB is on and the grenade pin pulled rotate the crank 2 full revolutions clockwise and cam and crank timing marks should come back to TDC.

Hmm, on the water pump I've only used AISIN i.e. Toyota OEM and they come with a metal/RTV gasket. Have you tried a google search for suggestions on the best way to mount the paper like one? Maybe it needs a bead of RTV?

Replacing LBJ is a good PM measure.

rworegon

From when another member was swapping from green to red coolant:

Note: This is how I do a flush and have good results. However, your results may vary and I accept no liability for you reliance on my 0.02 here.

I've run one gallon of Toyota red (this is the amount of coolant the dealer uses here for fills) topped off with distilled water (DW) in my rig. This is a 40% coolant mix good to about -15f or so (50/50 mix good to -34F). Our stock OEM radiators typically hold about 10-11 quarts.

Supplies:
1 gallon Toyota Red coolant
10 gallons distilled water (set two gallons aside for final fill). DW is about a buck or so a gallon at Wal-greens, etc.
Do not use tap or well water for flushing or filling as it contains nasty minerals.
1 bottle of Prestone cooling system cleaner..optional

Process:
1. Drain the system of the used coolant, retighten drain plug. Here we discard used coolant and all that is generated by the flushes at our local recyling centers free hazardous waste recycling day.

2. Remove overflow tank and give it a good rinsing out. You may have to stuff a rag in there and move it around with a stick to clean it out if it is real dirty.

3. Reinstall overflow tank.

4. Pour bottle of radiator flush into radiator.

5. Pour two gallons of DW into radiator. I also fill block through upper radiator hose.

6. Start vehicle and allow it run following instructions on the bottle. Generally, 10-15 minutes with the heat on hot and fan on high.

7. Shut off vehicle, drain flush and DW out, retighten drain plug.

8. Refill empty radiator with 2 gallons of DW and run engine 10-15 minutes...you want the thermostat to open so water circulates.

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 6 gallons of DW.

10. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 8 gallons of DW.

11. Shut off engine, drain DW, retighten drain plug

12. Pour 1 gallon of Toyota Red into radiator and slowly add 1 gallon of DW. I pull off the upper radiator hose from where it attaches to the radiator and pour the DW down it to fill the block.

13. Reinstall upper radiator hose. Start truck, turn on heat/fan and allow to run up to temperature adding DW to the radiator as needed.

14. Fill overflow tank with DW so the level is 1/2 way between the Cold/Low and Hot/Full marks.

I then drive a few miles, let everything cool down and add more DW to the radiator as needed. Check several times over the next several day....enjoy a clean cooling system!

Remember, you should be able to get 10-11 quarts of coolant + DW in there assuming your radiator holds near the OEM amount. You can always keep track of how much you drop out as a reference amount.

mazaa

Ok, I have set the TDC as pictured on my flick account.

Jiggle Valve at 6:00 just flipped into the WP housing
https://flic.kr/p/o4Y47v

Driver side cam
https://flic.kr/p/o4RN2b
Passenger side
https://flic.kr/p/o4EMD6
Crank Pulley
https://flic.kr/p/nMu1DE
https://flic.kr/p/o4RS5j
https://flic.kr/p/o6Kgce

I am off to wally world and grab 10 gallon distilled h20, and some Zerex Asian Coolant if I can find it at O Rielly's... will do the flush per the steps you posted above....thanks buddy for helping a new wrencher:=)

mazaa

Wow another goal.....go team USA, they will make it to the next round:=)

rworegon

And, it ends in a 2-2 draw.

rworegon

Do you have the TB back on? The right cam may be a bit to far clockwise. Other pics look ok to my eye.

How did you finally seal up the WP?

Glad to help. It's cool what one can do and learn via the 'net these days with pics, write-up, vids, and some searching around.

mazaa

Yes what a bummer at the very last minute they score, oh well

Nope, I have not put the belt on yet, I just got back with 10 gallon distilled water, Preston Cleaner and Flush and found the pre-mixed Zerex Asian Formula at O Reilly's, I will call the dealsership tomorrow and pickup some if they have it in stock and return the Zerex. I will give the cam one more spin or it may be the camera angle.

I have torqued the WP to 20 N.m and hoping for the best, I did not think adding any FPG/RTV was a good idea.

rworegon

On the cams, just be sure the marks are lined up at TDC and then install the belt. The cams sometimes want to jump due to the valve spring resistance. The real test is after the belt in on, grenade pin pulled, and the 2 clockwise revolutions should bring everything back to TDC. If not, redo. If back to TDC, button it up.

Dealer should have Toyota Red full-strength in stock, but some dealers now only stock the pink 50/50 which will work too....be ready for sticker shock, but I think it worth the $$.

rworegon

Another tip: Be sure the bolts you use on your crank holding tool go far enough into the crank pulley (i.e. the harmonic balance which is actually two pieces with a rubber layer that keeps them together) so the outer ring does not separate (the old, tired rubber can give up easily) when torqueing the crank bolt. If it does separate, time for a new one and they are expensive, $150 for Dorman, $300+ range for Toyota. Use metric bolts that thread well into the inner pulley.

Yes, they really can separate.