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To-Do List? New-to-me 98 V6 5sp 4x4

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Old 12-24-2011, 09:15 PM
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To-Do List? New-to-me 98 V6 5sp 4x4

Just bought my dream truck:

1998 Toyota Tacoma Ext-Cab
V-6
5-speed
4x4
175,000 miles

What is the new-to-me maintenance list? My guess is to do the following:

-Check valve clearances.
-Timing belt & waterpump while I'm in there.
-Fuel filter
-Plugs, wires, cap, rotor.
-I'll probably have the radiator flushed while it's out cause I want to drive this for 10+ years.

Any other things I ought to know about?


PS It has no rusty frame. I bought it for $2000 and it runs/drives perfectly. Just has a salvage title from previous owner getting rear-ended. It has a red box on it now but I am saving cash for:

-A full paintjob
-New all season tires
-new windshield
-New bumpers (friends run an autobody place and can source them for cheap, or have a local guy custom make some nice tough bumpers).

Will post pics soon
Old 12-24-2011, 09:34 PM
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Scratch the nice paint job, and just bed line the whole vehicle. and get some Trailgear bumpers with a OME lift and some 33x10.50s or 285/75R16s.... you'll thank me later.
Old 12-25-2011, 06:37 AM
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I'd hose the frame with fluid film. Maybe you don't have to deal with salt? I'd do it anyway. That is a nice price.
Old 12-25-2011, 06:49 AM
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Sounds about right for the to do list although there is no cap or rotor since we are COP. We are wasted spark so there are 3 plug wires.

Air filter naturally. Also remove the elbow that goes into the fender from the airbox, thats worth ~7-10hp and is the best intake setup you can get.

I would also drain/refill the transmission and the diffs/transfer case. I prefer AMSoil for all my fluids. Costs more but well worth it long term, lasts longer so long term cost is not much more either.

Grease the driveshaft zerks.

Check all the suspension components for wear.

I like to replace the vacuum lines on my cars with fresh stuff but not a must. If you do it, replace each line 1 at a time to make sure everything gos back the way it came off.

I would personally also do a water/seafoam treatment to it before to change the oil/start working on it and again at the next oil change. If you search I have a writeup on how to do this.
Old 12-25-2011, 08:18 AM
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Order this full timing belt kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-TIMIN...item2a144a37e8
Old 12-25-2011, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for the great information! So far we are at:

Engine
:
1.) Check engine valve clearances
2.) This timing Belt/Waterpump kit from eBay
3.) Coolant Flush (Having the whole system flushed seems smart (rad and engine), do you recommend this?
4.) Vacuum Lines changed individually (SMART, I often inspect these closely, but ~$20 to change them all could prevent big drama).
5.) Remove airbox-fender intake elbow.

Chassis:
1.) Fuel filter.
2.) Seafoam/Injector Cleaner through fuel system.
3.) Shocks.
4.) Alignment (Mine needs it a little, will do after new tires).

Drivetrain:
1.) Change all fluids (AmsOil a USA company - which I like).
2.) Grease everything.

Questions:
1.) Do you recommend me replacing the catalytic converter with a straight piece of pipe? I live in Montana so there's no problems from doing this (no inspections, etc.).
2.) Is there a way to adjust the clutch or pedal freeplay?

Thanks to the tremendous expertise from generous folks on this forum. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and like to spread knowledge on advrider.com and klr650.net but 4-wheeled-cars have a lot to them...

Before starting this thread, I poked around and only found the great information on the frame-rust problem well noted in this forum. Thinking it will help new owners get their rigs sorted out of there is a 'greatest hits' maintenance/inspection list for different genre's of Toyotas.


Old 12-25-2011, 08:41 AM
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Yes, I would flush the radiator. Just do it per the bottles directions and you should be fine. Refill with toyota red coolant.

You can ditch the cat if you want although in NA form it is not worth a lot of power, maybe 5whp. You will need to make/buy an O2 simulator for the ECU to approve of this though.

The clutch is hydraulic, flush/bleed the clutch fluid and that should improve pedal feel. Also make sure all bushings are in good condition. Same goes for the brakes. I would flush the brake fluid with some AMSoil fluid personally and bleed the brakes while doing it. If you plan on stainless brake/clutch lines now is the time to do it.

Now, for the seafoam, here is a copy/paste of the writeup I made awhile back. Should point you in the right direction for that.

Well, just figured I would post up some results with these products. Many of you have seen me promote seafoam in the gas and intake manifold before and i am a huge fan of this but i have never really suggested running it in the oil.

Well my motor has had 3 weak cylinders with low compression ever since i got the truck. Generally got around ~180psi on the good cylinders and ~135-145psi on the bad ones.

I had figured it was stuck rings but never really thought about trying to free them up. Well I was going to change my oil and saw a can of seafoam and marvel mystery oil sitting on the shelf. Figured what the heck, might as well try them. If the motor blows i will rebuild it.

So I put them in and drove the truck for a day or 2 to let them work. I then ran 2 gallons of methanol through the engine with my meth injection kit and then used the rest of the seafoam in the intake manifold like normal.

After all of that I changed the oil and drove it for a few days. I noticed an immediate improvement in how it ran. Lot smoother, started easier and just felt like it had better compression.

Yesterday I decided to do another compression test to see if my instincts were right. To my amazement the compression had jumped up to 190-195psi across the board! Ran the test twice cause i could not believe it.

So I have to say that done with caution I am now a believer in using these in the oil. I would not do it on a healthy/clean/new motor but when you got nothing to loose or you know there is a problem that these might help it is worth a shot.

Like usual i highly recommend the seafoam through the intake and in the gas as well.

Now for the methanol injection. I have to say it really will clean out the motor, i pulled the supercharger a few months back and it was sparkling clean inside all the intake manifold ports. It really will help clean everything out over time.

I will give you an idea on the treatment i give all new-to-me cars when i first get them besides a complete tune up.

First off Get all the stuff you will need together:

1 to 3 cans of seafoam
1 bottle of marvel mystery oil
oil change parts for your car ,filter, oil ect.
gallon of distilled water/washer fluid
Few random bottles of injector cleaner, i like to overload on that when i do it.

You can also pick and chose what parts of the treatment are right for you. You could leave out the water treatment if you wanted, it takes a lot of time. Putting the seafoam/marvel mystery oil into your oil can work great. It freed up the rings on my 4runner and bumped compression from what was ~180psi on 3 cylinders and ~135-145psi on the other 3 to an even 190-195 across the board. It does have a bigger chance of possibly hurting something then the rest of the treatments though.

Now I will first dump all the injector cleaners into a gas tank about 1/4 full. If you are going to put the seafoam/marvel mystery oil into your oil this is the time to do it as well. I do advise caution with putting these things into your oil, I have had great luck with it personally but there is a chance they could hurt something. I would not use it on a new/clean/otherwise great condition motor. On an older motor that you don't care that much about go for it.

Then I like to start with the water/washer fluid first. Find a vacuum line on or near the Throttle Body that will feed all the cylinders evenly. Make sure it is not only connected to 1 intake runner or offset on the intake manifold so it would only feed some of the cylinders. If that is your only option you need to find an equal port on the other side of the manifold.

You don't want the line to be too big. If it is too big you can get a small vacuum line and usually shove it into the bigger line and it will seal good enough for what we need. 1/4" line is a good size, slightly bigger or smaller is fine as well.

Now start the engine and drive it around to get it nice and hot. When you get back connect the vacuum line to the port you found earlier and stick it into the gallon of water. You will have to give the engine a lot of gas to keep it running but just let it keep sucking it down. I usually run the whole gallon through the car in 2 or 3 treatments, broken up by me beating the heck out of it before coming back for the next one.

After you finish the water go drive the car hard to clean it out.

Now time for the seafoam, this is like the water except you need to let the car sit between treatments. Just like the water hook up the vacuum line and get ready to rev the motor up to keep it running. Stick the line into the can of seafoam and try to keep the motor running till it sucks up about half the can for the first treatment. Then let it bog out and die. Now let it sit for half an hour or so. Longer is better, for the first few treatments though you don't really want to let the motor get all the way cold.

Now go out and restart the car, it will take a little bit to restart, put the gas to the floor while trying to start it tends to help. Once started you should have one heck of a smoke show. The more smoke, the dirtier the engine is. You can let it idle for a little bit and have fun revving it so you smoke out the neighborhood or go for a drive and leave long trails of smoke. At some point go out and flog the car before the next treatment.

Now repeat the earlier process except use about 1/3 of a bottle at a time from now on so it lasts longer. Keep doing this a few times, you will start to notice that you have less and less smoke the more treatments you do. It will get to a point where the amount of smoke stops improving, thats when it is about as clean as it will get right now.

I generally will do one last treatment at this point, heavier this time. I will then let it sit overnight.

Dump any left over seafoam or marvel mystery oil into the gas tank.

The next morning start it up and go for a nice long drive, get the oil up to temp and keep it there for a good 10-15 mins if possible to help clean the last of the junk out of the motor. Could go to work and do it when you get home or whatever. Just don't put that many miles on it before changing the oil.

Now change the oil, and make SURE you change the oil, after all of this you will have some water and seafoam in the oil for sure, it needs to be changed. Refill the oil check all the fluids and there you go. It should now run noticeably better.

I have had GREAT luck with this regime on all of my cars but you do this at your own risk!

If you really want to clean out everything you can also get a "motorvac" treatment done. It is a snap on machine that will run cleaner though your fuel system to clean out the injectors and combustion chambers real good. It lacks some of the cleaning of the above treatments but it cleans other things better.

If you are scared of the above treatments this is a GREAT option. I noticed my vacuum jump from -20inhg ro -22inhg after having the motorvac done, not that unlike the above treatment but like i said they clean things a little differently. Doing both would be ideal but a motorvac treatment will run you about $100. Worth the money on an older motor though.

Last edited by Texas_Ace; 12-25-2011 at 08:42 AM.
Old 12-25-2011, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas_Ace
Refill with toyota red coolant.
Properly dilute the Toyota Red with distilled water, of course.

RGR, find a FSM for your rig or similar from the link in my sig....you will not regret it.
Old 12-25-2011, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rworegon
Properly dilute the Toyota Red with distilled water, of course.

RGR, find a FSM for your rig or similar from the link in my sig....you will not regret it.
Most of the time it comes pre-mixed around here. Got to special order the full strength stuff.

FSM is another good idea.
Old 12-25-2011, 09:43 AM
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TA, interestingly around here most Toyota dealers still have both full strength Red (red lid bottle) and pre-mixed Pink (yellow lid bottle) on the shelf. It's likely though they'll switch to the pre-mixed here too.

Last edited by rworegon; 12-25-2011 at 10:20 AM.
Old 12-25-2011, 09:44 AM
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Yeah, I was not happy about the switch myself but can still order the normal stuff and doesn't take long to get it.
Old 12-25-2011, 10:19 AM
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RGR, check all the fuses, the electrolyte level in the battery, and all light bulbs around the truck.
Old 12-25-2011, 10:25 AM
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Take the rear drums off and remove and lube up the bell cranks. It may be down the list but it is nice to have the brake keep working. Also lower the spare tire and lube up the carrier.
Old 12-25-2011, 10:31 AM
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Replace radiator hoses? Valve cover gaskets? Intake manifold gaskets? Knock sensor wire? Its all right there when doing timing belt and valve job.
Old 01-25-2012, 06:25 PM
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Diggin this thread!
Just got basically the same truck last night
THANKS
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