Disable your annoying key "ding?"
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Disable your annoying key "ding?"
After performing a search, I don't think anyone has mentioned anything about disabling the annoying Toyota "key in ingnition" ding. Does anyone know how to disable it? I've got a '97 runner, but any info would be helpful. Is anyone else interested in getting rid of it or just me?
#2
That little dinger is located on the Instrument cluster. You need to dissassemble the dash, behind is located a cover over a circuit board it's a round buzzer. What I did was just roll up a piece of teflon tape and stuffed it into the hole in the middle. It won't stop it but muffle the sound to the point that it ain't annoying anymore. By doing it this way you can easily remove the tape to make it functional, if you plan to sell it in the future.
#3
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kford,
for the 99 and up, bruce is correct. i disabled (errr...pierced is a better word) the little black, circular housing that acts as the speaker for the annoying ding in my former 99.
for the 96-98, its actually housed in a yellow plastic box beneath the bottom driver's side panel. i busted a few clips removing it, but since it plugs in like a harness, its more than secure enough.
behind the plastic box is a similar black housing. i pierced the metal membranes (there are two) and viola, no bing!bing!bing!.
heres what you have to kill for the 99:
i wish i had a pic for the 96-98 but i can't seem to find it. however, here's a good way to find it. unbolt the bottom driver's side panel (four 10mm bolts). get a piece of rubber tubing and put one end up to your ear. turn the ignition until it starts to bing/bing. then use the other end of the tubing to locate the source of the sound. it is on the left side near the bottom in a yellow housing. you may need a screwdriver or something to remove it, but i can't remember for sure.
if you can remove the yellow box without breaking a clip (or two), you are my hero! but just know that i broke a clip and it plugs back in (and holds) with no problem.
Bob
for the 99 and up, bruce is correct. i disabled (errr...pierced is a better word) the little black, circular housing that acts as the speaker for the annoying ding in my former 99.
for the 96-98, its actually housed in a yellow plastic box beneath the bottom driver's side panel. i busted a few clips removing it, but since it plugs in like a harness, its more than secure enough.
behind the plastic box is a similar black housing. i pierced the metal membranes (there are two) and viola, no bing!bing!bing!.
heres what you have to kill for the 99:
i wish i had a pic for the 96-98 but i can't seem to find it. however, here's a good way to find it. unbolt the bottom driver's side panel (four 10mm bolts). get a piece of rubber tubing and put one end up to your ear. turn the ignition until it starts to bing/bing. then use the other end of the tubing to locate the source of the sound. it is on the left side near the bottom in a yellow housing. you may need a screwdriver or something to remove it, but i can't remember for sure.
if you can remove the yellow box without breaking a clip (or two), you are my hero! but just know that i broke a clip and it plugs back in (and holds) with no problem.
Bob
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Mod Complete!!
There were a few hang-ups during the project (ala ratchet breaking) and the last picture shows the "extra pieces" (clips that snapped off) during removal of the fuse panel and the black box.
Oh great, my hosting is down right now, so nevermind no pics right now. But anyway, if you take off the drivers side panel under steering (4 10mm bolts), you'll see the fuse panel located to the left. On that panel, under the fuses, you'll see a black box with two wire harnesses plugged in. Unplug those. Then you need to undo the two black clips on either side to remove it from the yellowish panel. This is difficult because the left side of the box is blocked by more plastic, so I ended up removing the entire yellow panel. I took off two 10mm bolts, and then just yanked and there came the creme-colored "extra piece" that you'll see later when i post pics. I could then get to the clip. Using a flathead, I depressed six (do all 6 or you risk damaging the delicate silicone and all the capacitors and pins contained within on the circuit board) and opened the black container. Within, I found the culprit of the noise: a black cylinder JUST LIKE the one that Bob_98SR5 posted. I just did the temp. fix: I put about 7 layers of electrical and duct tape over it. It's definitely muffled. It makes a funny sound now, and it continues to slowly get louder. I think the vibration is slowly causing the tape to get blown off away from the hole it covered, but it's definitely better than before.
So yes, it was a pain, and I broke some clips, but everything went back together perfectly, and for now, the noise is at a much more suitable level, and if I ever sell, i can easily return it to stock "pierce your eardrum" ding level.
There were a few hang-ups during the project (ala ratchet breaking) and the last picture shows the "extra pieces" (clips that snapped off) during removal of the fuse panel and the black box.
Oh great, my hosting is down right now, so nevermind no pics right now. But anyway, if you take off the drivers side panel under steering (4 10mm bolts), you'll see the fuse panel located to the left. On that panel, under the fuses, you'll see a black box with two wire harnesses plugged in. Unplug those. Then you need to undo the two black clips on either side to remove it from the yellowish panel. This is difficult because the left side of the box is blocked by more plastic, so I ended up removing the entire yellow panel. I took off two 10mm bolts, and then just yanked and there came the creme-colored "extra piece" that you'll see later when i post pics. I could then get to the clip. Using a flathead, I depressed six (do all 6 or you risk damaging the delicate silicone and all the capacitors and pins contained within on the circuit board) and opened the black container. Within, I found the culprit of the noise: a black cylinder JUST LIKE the one that Bob_98SR5 posted. I just did the temp. fix: I put about 7 layers of electrical and duct tape over it. It's definitely muffled. It makes a funny sound now, and it continues to slowly get louder. I think the vibration is slowly causing the tape to get blown off away from the hole it covered, but it's definitely better than before.
So yes, it was a pain, and I broke some clips, but everything went back together perfectly, and for now, the noise is at a much more suitable level, and if I ever sell, i can easily return it to stock "pierce your eardrum" ding level.
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#7
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That's too easy!!!
Finally got my hosting back up. Here are some pics:
The sound originates from the black box below fuses:
Removal was NO FUN. See above. Here's the box after I pried it out:
In the bottom right, you can see the round black housing that I places tape over. I covered the opening in the top of the round housing with about 6 or 7 layers of electrical and duct tape.
Sorry bob, but i am NOT your hero. I snapped some pieces off too, I got frustrated with all of the hidden bolts and clips so I gave 'er a good yank. The "extra" pieces:
So if you've ever got about 30 minutes and are looking for a beneficial and most importantly FREEEEEE mod, this mini-write up should do you some good.
Kearneyford@msn.com
Finally got my hosting back up. Here are some pics:
The sound originates from the black box below fuses:
Removal was NO FUN. See above. Here's the box after I pried it out:
In the bottom right, you can see the round black housing that I places tape over. I covered the opening in the top of the round housing with about 6 or 7 layers of electrical and duct tape.
Sorry bob, but i am NOT your hero. I snapped some pieces off too, I got frustrated with all of the hidden bolts and clips so I gave 'er a good yank. The "extra" pieces:
So if you've ever got about 30 minutes and are looking for a beneficial and most importantly FREEEEEE mod, this mini-write up should do you some good.
Kearneyford@msn.com
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#8
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i think the easiest option is to just turn the iginition to "ON" rather than "ACC". The door will chime for the seatbelt, and then stop. No chime when the driver's door is open.
#9
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kford,
you busted those too, eh?!?! i could not figure out how to get that out w/o a good yank. great pics too.
funny, my box is bright yellow but yours is black. a good thing to note.
yeah, that ding ding is the worst. i like to leave all my doors open w/ the radio on.
ewarner: your solution is valid, but don't you draw more current off the battery when its on "ON" vs "ACC"? I believe ACC only draws 12v of current, thus sparing your battery from draining. Before I got my Champion DT gel-cell battery, my stock battery would drain out after about 30 mins.
Bob
you busted those too, eh?!?! i could not figure out how to get that out w/o a good yank. great pics too.
funny, my box is bright yellow but yours is black. a good thing to note.
yeah, that ding ding is the worst. i like to leave all my doors open w/ the radio on.
ewarner: your solution is valid, but don't you draw more current off the battery when its on "ON" vs "ACC"? I believe ACC only draws 12v of current, thus sparing your battery from draining. Before I got my Champion DT gel-cell battery, my stock battery would drain out after about 30 mins.
Bob
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Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
ewarner: your solution is valid, but don't you draw more current off the battery when its on "ON" vs "ACC"? I believe ACC only draws 12v of current, thus sparing your battery from draining. Before I got my Champion DT gel-cell battery, my stock battery would drain out after about 30 mins.
Bob
ewarner: your solution is valid, but don't you draw more current off the battery when its on "ON" vs "ACC"? I believe ACC only draws 12v of current, thus sparing your battery from draining. Before I got my Champion DT gel-cell battery, my stock battery would drain out after about 30 mins.
Bob
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