Beowulf_the_Dane

Summary: How to fix the burnt-out display in a 4runner digital climate control unit

Tools: a Philips screw-driver (the shorter the better), a flat-head screw driver with a fine tip.

Parts: Two Honda (yes, Honda not Toyota) bulbs with Part Number 35851-SP1-901. My local dealer had 3 in stock, I bought 2 at $4.00 each!

Time: About 1 hour

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My 2000 Toyota 4runner recently had part of the digital climate control display stop lighting up. In the day you could see the temperature and fan speed, but at night, it would glowing green and was pretty much unreadable. After this happened, there was a brief time when one side flickered on and off, but for the most part, it was always out. My local Toyota dealer wanted some outrageous price for the part. I did find out from the Internet that the problem was a couple of burnt out lightbulbs, but the Toyota deal does not sell the parts. A little more research and I found that the part could probably be had from Acura or Honda. Sure enough, I found the little buggers at Honda. The bulbs were $4.00 each which is very expensive for a nothing-special-looks-like-a-christmas-light-lightbulb, but they were the only place I could get them quickly for that little. I did find similar items at a few of the larger electronics parts sales places, but the minimum order and shipping cost just did not justify it. Anyhow, $8.00 is still a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing the whole thing. Anyhow, here is how you can do it too. Incidentally, it is pretty easy and if you want to change out your radio, you can do it at the same time.

Step 1. Pull apart the dashboard. This I did not figure out on my own. I actually paid $5 to crutchfield for the instructions... First, open the center-arm rest top cover. Then put a few fingers in the space where the parking brake is and pull up. It will be a little tight, but it is only being held in by friction clips. Once it is off (now is a good time to wash out the spilled soda) put it aside. Next, pull up the plastic bezel around the gear shifter. Again, friction clips. To remove it, you will have to turn the thing 90 degrees so it will slide over the fat grip at the top of the shifter. As you turn, tilt the front of it downward and it will be easier. Next put your hands under the large dash area (at the bottom by the cigarette lighter) and pull. Again, lots of friction clips. On this part, do not pull too hard as there are a bunch of wires plugged into the clock, seat belt light, and other things. Pull it so it is completely detached, but hanging there. If you do not have a short Philips screw driver, you may have to disconnect some of the wires. At the top, you will see your climate control unit... our target.

Step 2. Pull out the unit. Ok, the front of the unit has a snap-on frame. If you look at the top of it (turn on the map-light so you can see it better), you will see three little clips across the top that hold it on. SLIGHTLY pry them up with a fingernail and pull forward and down. There are clips on the bottom too, so be careful. Once it is removed, put it aside. You should now see three screws (1 on the left, 2 on the right). Yep, unscrew them. Once they are remove, you will have to use a little force and pull out the unit. First note how it is attached. The unit is sitting BEHIND a few screw-holes that are a part of the dash. The right side also has an extra hole at the top for a little pin to fit in it. OK, so lift the thing up, and twist a little. You will probably put one of the corners into the duct work a little bit—no big deal. Some of the wires attaching the front panel to the dash may get in the way. Also, no big deal, just note how the wires go OVER the unit, not below it. So pull the thing out. There are two wires attached to the back of it. There are little clips on the top of them that you have to squeeze to pull them out. Do it. You should now have the unit in your hands.

Step 3. Pull the old bulbs. OK, looking into the back of the unit is 2 screws, one on each side. Take them out. You will now have to use a fingernail to pry apart the black front from the white back casing. Do it, but don’t pull too hard. There is a short wire inside connecting the two parts. Once they are apart, slide a finger inside and release the ribbon-wire from the front. Do that by using a fingernail to pull the corners of the thing holding the wire out. Great. Now look at the back of the black piece. There are 4 plastic circles—two black smaller ones on the outside and two larger white ones more toward the middle. Our target is the two white ones. The black ones are for other lights in the front. I am not sure what the right replacement bulb would be, but I bet Honda has it. Anyhow, before you do anything to the white bulbs, notice that on the circuit board are little arrows around them. Yea, notice how the long line of the white circle is lined up with the head of the arrow. Keep that in mind because you have to unscrew these things and that shows you how far to tighten the replacements. So using you flat-head screwdriver, turn counter clockwise a little bit (until it feels like it is free—about 1/4 a turn). Using your finger, pull the white thing out. That is the bulb. Notice that it is green. Well, the bulb is not really green. What you see is a little rubber glove over a normal bulb, if you gently squeeze the bulb with two fingers, you should be able to rock the cover off it. Now you can see the clear bulb. A note here... It looked to me that I only had one bad bulb. Even if you have only one bad bulb, replace them both so you don’t have to do this again any time soon. The other will likely go out soon, or maybe light at a different brightness. I don’t know because I changed them both.

Step 4. New bulbs in. Take the little green gloves and slide them onto the new Honda bulbs. Ah, yes I did notice that the Honda bulbs are a little shorter. Don’t worry about it, the gloves are still tight and will stay on. Incidentally, if you want some details on the bulbs they are called ‘neo-wedge’ bulbs, size T-1 1/4. I am pretty sure they are 12 volt bulbs, but don’t quote me. I have no idea what the amperage rating is. Anyhow, put the new bulbs in and twist them into place. I did notice on mine that the new bulbs were a little tighter fit, but went on with no problem.

Step 5. Put it all back together. Put the unit back together, don’t forget that ribbon cable. Slide it into the ribbon-cable-holder and push the corners back in. Snap it together. Put the two screws in. Plug the unit back into the car (2 plugs, right). Now, before you keep going. Turn the car on—just into the accessory position. If the display light up nicely, good job! If not, well something is screwed up and I am not really sure, so go back and re-do it all.

Step 6. Put the dash back together. Turn off the car. Put the unit back in. Remember, the unit goes UNDER the bunch of wires at the top of the front panel. Screw it back in. Snap the little cover over it. Put the main panel back on (start at the top) and lightly pound it back in with your palms. Snap the gear-shifter panel back on. Open the top center arm rest and snap the cup holder piece back on. Turn the car on again to make sure it still works. Now, you are done!
Enjoy!

Beowulf the Dane

Search terms: Toyota 4Runner AC Digital Climate Control light bulb neo-wedge neowedge display

garrett1478

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127/99-ltd-auto-cc-light-replacement-70183/

he beat you

nice write up though

MTL_4runner

Good writeup anyway!