Tacoma_QC

This week-end, I got a P0330 CEL. Going further in the quest of finding my problem, I did a lot of testing and finally find out that I have to replace the Knock sensor. I called my dealership and the part Guy says that two model of sensor pop out on his computer. Even with my VIN he cannot tell me witch one was on my truck when it came off the line.


Any help will be appreciate to determine witch one is on my truck without removing it. Maybe there is no difference between the two model and the ECU will see nothing if I pick the wrong one?


Thanks

J2F42C

I'd say you will have to pull it to be sure, but if I were to guess, I would say it is the Matsu˟˟˟˟a and not the Denso. Most Denso products used in Toyotas are interchangable between models where as a few parts for Toyota 4WD older trucks and SUVs I have found are model specific only.

But again, pull it.

trx125

The the GM knock sensor.

j-man

call another dealer parts guy and give him ur vin - it shouldnt be a question.

Tacoma_QC

I call 3 dealer, NAPA and CarQuest and nobody can answer me. Hopefully I foud a local part dealer who agree to sell me the two model and take back the one that didn't fit. I also order new intake gasket, injector o-ring and sensor harness. Meanwhile I plugged the two ecu wire to the good sensor and CEL goes away and my truck run normally. This is an expensive job and it cost me almost 450$ in part. I hope I don't forget anything as I plan to do the job this week-end.

Tacoma_QC

On Friday afternoon I begin to strip down the supercharger to dig my way down to the faulty sensor. It took me about 2 hours to finally reach my goal. The job was easy because I installed supercharger 2 months ago and all the vacuum line was still labelled. I make basic test on the “faulty” sensor as I check for conductivity on both, wiring harness and sensor himself. Test reveal grey and black wires were good from one connector to the other and no contact between connector side and knock side of the sensor. This situation seems to be a good thing by Haynes Manual (too poor to buy FMS) and my conclusion was both; harness and sensor were good as nothing seems to be wrong.

Even if my test reveal nothing wrong I decided to change harness and sensor anyway just to be sure that CEL won’t light up again. Only there was a problem, the two sensors I get from local part dealer have no identification on it and both are different from the original one. First one is from a company name Standard, model KS100 and part guy said its equivalent of Denso model. Second one is from Intermotor, model KS81 and its a equivalent of Matsu sensor. In fact, even original was hard to indentify: none of the number on sensor refer to ks81 or ks100 and only a big “M” on original sensor make me take decision to put Matsu equivalent in replacement of the old one. In fact I was hoping that wave form were similar on both sensor so even if I picked wrong one, ECU won’t see a thing.

On Saturday morning cleaning job began, takes me about 4 hours to get head and intake surfaces clean enough to put on new gaskets and be sure that no leak will occur. 11 year of cooking gasket was hard to remove especially rubber part on coolant port. I place towels into head port to be sure that no debris goes to the valves. I use Scotch-Brite to clean up surfaces and I don’t want small part of it going into the cylinder. I also clean up injector grommet and replace all o-ring with new one.

By the end of afternoon everything was back in place and I was ready for a test drive. When I started the TOY I let it warm up and I checked for any kind of leak. No coolant seen and vacuum being stable I was ready to go for a run. Power was back and engine was running strong, I even hit 100mph at WOT for first time of my life but wait… Oh no CEL came back… and with it, sluggish engine… what the hell is going on. Back to garage I plug laptop on OBDII and guess what… P0330 again. Desperate I tapped grey wire onto black one Reset trouble code and write this.

I don’t think there is a problem running with ECU wire plugged on good sensor for a while. I monitor timing for over 300 km in different driving condition and there is no change between hacked sensor and 2 good sensors. Anyway I don’t think it’s possible for a engine to knock only on 3 cylinder on 1 side of the block and not on the other. I’m willing to do this job again but this time I have to be sure of what really is my problem as I won’t do it 3 times. If anyone as idea of could possibly goes wrong, let me know.

J2F42C

Here is a link to the factory service manual:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

The knock sensor I have zero experience with, so maybe someone else will chime in....

Texas_Ace

Actually one side of the 5vz is more knock prone then the other, i forgot which side it was, i want to say passenger side but don't quote me.

Does the code stand for a bad sensor or for it detecting knock? Have you tried shaking the sensor? If it rattles it is usually bad, if not it is anyones guess.

Do you have a wideband? What are your AFR's? What are your timing numbers like? What size pulley?

How many miles on the engine? How many miles on the spark plugs/wires? What spark plugs are you using? What octane fuel are you running?

List those out and i will see if anything stands out as a possible problem.

Tacoma_QC

In FMS, CEL P0330 is define like this "No knock sensor 2 signal to ECM with engine speed between 2,000 rpm and 5,600 rpm" so it's more like a bad sensor than to much knocking.

Sensor i replaced is on driver side and i replace harness too. If i shake the sensor i removed it as a little bit rattles inside.

AFR report around 14.7 in normal driving condition and between 11.5 to 12.3 at WOT. Engine as 150k. Spark plug are Two step cooler Denso Iridium Power i received with my URD 7th injector kit. I use plugs for 3k miles now as for wire i changed at same time. I also had 2.2inch pulley and run my truck on premium 91 fuel.

Texas_Ace

Ok, it does sound like a bad sensor but knock sensors go bad for a reason, usually because of too much knock.

First off i would richen the tune up a lot, with 91oct fuel and a 2.2 pulley i would want AFR's in the low 11's. On 93oct you want them in the mid-high 11's (11.8:1 is what most shoot for). With lower oct fuel you need to richen it up to stop knock.

Even better would be to add a meth/water injection kit, that would stop all the knock for sure.

Personally i think i would get the GM knock sensor, i used one on my MR2 and it works just as good as stock but at a fraction of the price and it was stronger.

SpeedBro

you can use either sensor, it's just 2 different manufacturer, like the oil pressure switch, you choose between nap part or jap part

they do the same job et give the same signal.... I usually choose the cheaper one....

Boris