Dana Idler arm for 2nd Gen online?
10-07-2004, 05:45 AM
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Dana Idler arm for 2nd Gen online?
hey,
I need a new idler arm. I did the rebuild about a year ago, but I've got alot of play in it now.
I saw one online a few days ago for around $80 from a retailer and bookmarked it. Well, my HD crashed so my home PC is unusable as of now along with my bookmark. Now I cant find it anywhere online.......
anybody know where I can get this? I can get at NAPA local for $106.00
Thanks!
Mike
I need a new idler arm. I did the rebuild about a year ago, but I've got alot of play in it now.
I saw one online a few days ago for around $80 from a retailer and bookmarked it. Well, my HD crashed so my home PC is unusable as of now along with my bookmark. Now I cant find it anywhere online.......
anybody know where I can get this? I can get at NAPA local for $106.00
Thanks!
Mike
10-07-2004, 08:51 AM
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Oh yeah
and they had it along with the ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends and the pitman arm! I HATE Autozone and 99% of the crap they sell is trash but Dana front end parts are good and a lifetime warranty is great...Oh I was just driveing along when the ball joints both broke...sure 
10-07-2004, 09:26 AM
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yeah..I was surprised also!
Yeah I was surprised to see that all of the front end parts I bought were all Dana! The only thing I didnt like was the lack of grease fittings, but then again with the lifetime warranty if they get a little loose they will go back to the Zone! Now Im getting ready to do a full wheel bearing and rotor upgrade so then my entire front end will basically be new!
10-07-2004, 10:28 AM
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Damn!! I called 2 autozones, 2 O'reilly's and a NAPA and the cheapest I found the Moog arm was $97 for the arm only!!! I live in Dallas.
I ordered the Moog online for $83 with free shipping, but it was for the arm only as well.
it would definitely be sweet to get the whole setup.....Want to work out a deal on another set???
Can you give me a # for the Autozone you bought it at?? Do you possibly have a part # on the set??
I may try to call and see if they'll ship to me.
I checked their website and they only list a Dura-last idler for $87.99 for arm only no Dana......
thanks,
Mike
:
I ordered the Moog online for $83 with free shipping, but it was for the arm only as well.
it would definitely be sweet to get the whole setup.....Want to work out a deal on another set???
Can you give me a # for the Autozone you bought it at?? Do you possibly have a part # on the set??
I may try to call and see if they'll ship to me.
I checked their website and they only list a Dura-last idler for $87.99 for arm only no Dana......
thanks,
Mike
Originally Posted by Ilovemountains
Yeah I was surprised to see that all of the front end parts I bought were all Dana! The only thing I didnt like was the lack of grease fittings, but then again with the lifetime warranty if they get a little loose they will go back to the Zone! Now Im getting ready to do a full wheel bearing and rotor upgrade so then my entire front end will basically be new!
Last edited by photomike72; 10-07-2004 at 10:33 AM.
10-07-2004, 10:41 AM
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Is the arm bent?
Instead of paying that much money why don't you just replace the crappy plastic bearings with oil impregnated bronze ones? You don't even have to drill and tap a zerk fitting on your idler arm because the bearings already have oil impregnated in them and the shaft will constantly ride on a film of oil.
You can get them at www.mcmaster.com they might have to have a little machining done to them to fit. I'm sure a local machinist will do it for a coupla bucks.
This should be a one time replacement, unless of course you bend the arm itself.
Instead of paying that much money why don't you just replace the crappy plastic bearings with oil impregnated bronze ones? You don't even have to drill and tap a zerk fitting on your idler arm because the bearings already have oil impregnated in them and the shaft will constantly ride on a film of oil.
You can get them at www.mcmaster.com they might have to have a little machining done to them to fit. I'm sure a local machinist will do it for a coupla bucks.
This should be a one time replacement, unless of course you bend the arm itself.
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10-07-2004, 10:50 AM
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Do you have a link to the brass bushings?? I dont even know what I'm looking for and with 410,000 products, I'd never find the riht one.
Not bent, but has play in it from wearing down......
Mike
Not bent, but has play in it from wearing down......
Mike
Originally Posted by Buki
Is the arm bent?
Instead of paying that much money why don't you just replace the crappy plastic bearings with oil impregnated bronze ones? You don't even have to drill and tap a zerk fitting on your idler arm because the bearings already have oil impregnated in them and the shaft will constantly ride on a film of oil.
You can get them at www.mcmaster.com they might have to have a little machining done to them to fit. I'm sure a local machinist will do it for a coupla bucks.
This should be a one time replacement, unless of course you bend the arm itself.
Instead of paying that much money why don't you just replace the crappy plastic bearings with oil impregnated bronze ones? You don't even have to drill and tap a zerk fitting on your idler arm because the bearings already have oil impregnated in them and the shaft will constantly ride on a film of oil.
You can get them at www.mcmaster.com they might have to have a little machining done to them to fit. I'm sure a local machinist will do it for a coupla bucks.
This should be a one time replacement, unless of course you bend the arm itself.
10-07-2004, 10:58 AM
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go to www.mcmaster.com type in the search window *bronze bearing*
Click on the *plain bearings*
Then the * flanged*
If you read the bottom you should see this:
SAE 841 Bronze: Similar to "Oil-Lite style" bearings. Bearings composed of this alloy of copper, tin, and carbon are porous and are vacuum-impregnated with 18-20% SAE-30 oil. Heat produced by movement of the shaft through the bearing draws oil to the bearing surface. This creates a cushion between the shaft and the bearing that reduces wear and increases resistance to shock loads. Available in flanged, sleeve, and thrust bearings.
You will have to know all the dimensions though or be availablt to take your old one to the shop. You can probably do it yourself if you have a drill press or some way of holding the bearing straight and then sanding it to the correct size.
Looks like at the max you'll be paying would be like $15 bucks plus shipping and the labor of turning them down to the correct size.
Not bad in my estimation.
Click on the *plain bearings*
Then the * flanged*
If you read the bottom you should see this:
SAE 841 Bronze: Similar to "Oil-Lite style" bearings. Bearings composed of this alloy of copper, tin, and carbon are porous and are vacuum-impregnated with 18-20% SAE-30 oil. Heat produced by movement of the shaft through the bearing draws oil to the bearing surface. This creates a cushion between the shaft and the bearing that reduces wear and increases resistance to shock loads. Available in flanged, sleeve, and thrust bearings.
You will have to know all the dimensions though or be availablt to take your old one to the shop. You can probably do it yourself if you have a drill press or some way of holding the bearing straight and then sanding it to the correct size.
Looks like at the max you'll be paying would be like $15 bucks plus shipping and the labor of turning them down to the correct size.
Not bad in my estimation.
10-07-2004, 11:13 AM
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Anyone know the dimensions of these?? I dont have the old ones anymore to measure......
THnaks for the link Buki.
Mike
THnaks for the link Buki.
Mike
Originally Posted by Buki
go to www.mcmaster.com type in the search window *bronze bearing*
Click on the *plain bearings*
Then the * flanged*
If you read the bottom you should see this:
SAE 841 Bronze: Similar to "Oil-Lite style" bearings. Bearings composed of this alloy of copper, tin, and carbon are porous and are vacuum-impregnated with 18-20% SAE-30 oil. Heat produced by movement of the shaft through the bearing draws oil to the bearing surface. This creates a cushion between the shaft and the bearing that reduces wear and increases resistance to shock loads. Available in flanged, sleeve, and thrust bearings.
You will have to know all the dimensions though or be availablt to take your old one to the shop. You can probably do it yourself if you have a drill press or some way of holding the bearing straight and then sanding it to the correct size.
Looks like at the max you'll be paying would be like $15 bucks plus shipping and the labor of turning them down to the correct size.
Not bad in my estimation.
Click on the *plain bearings*
Then the * flanged*
If you read the bottom you should see this:
SAE 841 Bronze: Similar to "Oil-Lite style" bearings. Bearings composed of this alloy of copper, tin, and carbon are porous and are vacuum-impregnated with 18-20% SAE-30 oil. Heat produced by movement of the shaft through the bearing draws oil to the bearing surface. This creates a cushion between the shaft and the bearing that reduces wear and increases resistance to shock loads. Available in flanged, sleeve, and thrust bearings.
You will have to know all the dimensions though or be availablt to take your old one to the shop. You can probably do it yourself if you have a drill press or some way of holding the bearing straight and then sanding it to the correct size.
Looks like at the max you'll be paying would be like $15 bucks plus shipping and the labor of turning them down to the correct size.
Not bad in my estimation.
10-07-2004, 11:39 AM
#11
Have you thought about getting a aftermarket one like a Total Chaos or Inland trucks idler arm. Both will never need replacing and will last the liftime of your TOY. I have the one from INland trucks for over a year and no play in it after 25 or so offroad trips and you'll never bend it. I had a lifetime warrenty one before and it would only last for 6 or 7 off road trips and it would need to be replaced again. Even though it was a free replacement it still took time to do it not to mention the drive home from wheelin with a woople in the steering and needless tire wear.
10-07-2004, 11:45 AM
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Well, I ordered the Downey brace as well so I thought that may be a good bet.
I did look at the Total Chaos, but not the Inland.
TC was WAY too expensive for me, but do you have the link for the Inland??
Thanks,
Mike
I did look at the Total Chaos, but not the Inland.
TC was WAY too expensive for me, but do you have the link for the Inland??
Thanks,
Mike
Originally Posted by Scottz
Have you thought about getting a aftermarket one like a Total Chaos or Inland trucks idler arm. Both will never need replacing and will last the liftime of your TOY. I have the one from INland trucks for over a year and no play in it after 25 or so offroad trips and you'll never bend it. I had a lifetime warrenty one before and it would only last for 6 or 7 off road trips and it would need to be replaced again. Even though it was a free replacement it still took time to do it not to mention the drive home from wheelin with a woople in the steering and needless tire wear.
10-07-2004, 11:49 AM
#13
I believe it's www.inlandtrucks.com mine cost $260
Last edited by Scottz; 10-07-2004 at 11:51 AM.
10-07-2004, 12:22 PM
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I've replaced a couple of idler arms over the years and haven't had the bushings be the problem yet (although I do understand that's the common issue.) I had a worn out rod end, and those aren't replaceable. At least on the replacement parts they're greasable.
10-07-2004, 12:55 PM
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That's funny because a long tinme ago when Baja racing was in Stanton I showed the guy there what I was doing and I guess he liked what he saw, ran with it and took it one bis step forward. I think Baja and TC know each other. I also had the Downey brace and was tired of replacing the plastic bushings. Worked great for 12 years and thru some pretty good wheelin.
You have to watch which bushing you get measurements from too. Each co. makes different size shafts as my buddy and I found out when we were selling them a long time ago. If you can get your hands on a pair of calipers and take some measurements that would be good. The best thing I would suggest is just taking your present on off and take it to a machinist since he will probably do the work anyway, unless you have access to a lathe. It's very easy to turn down to size. It's a little leg work , but well worth it, considering the price difference between the other alternatives.
You have to watch which bushing you get measurements from too. Each co. makes different size shafts as my buddy and I found out when we were selling them a long time ago. If you can get your hands on a pair of calipers and take some measurements that would be good. The best thing I would suggest is just taking your present on off and take it to a machinist since he will probably do the work anyway, unless you have access to a lathe. It's very easy to turn down to size. It's a little leg work , but well worth it, considering the price difference between the other alternatives.
10-07-2004, 06:04 PM
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AutoZone
Here is that #, if all else I can pick it up for you and ship it to you UPS if you dont find one closer! Matt #5 Jefferston Crossing
Charles Town, WV 25414
(304) 725-3878
Charles Town, WV 25414
(304) 725-3878
10-08-2004, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by photomike72
Anyone know the dimensions of these?? I dont have the old ones anymore to measure......
THnaks for the link Buki.
Mike
THnaks for the link Buki.
Mike
20mm shaft diameter
24mm outer diameter
32mm flange diameter
2.5mm flange thickness
20mm overall length
closest part number 6659k42
The flange thickness and diameter are smaller.
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