SO/TX

ok - new here though have appreciated this resource for some time now - thank you all for being here!

I have been driving my Tacoma every week but not as much as in the past...

Has over 150K miles, original owner, all synthetic fluids and regular maintenance.

Got in it to drive it yesterday and got rough idle and acceleration. Threw engine light - swapped out plugs for therd set of original Denso one side and NGK other (factory setup) ... still same problem and diagnosed error code at advanced auto...

I have replace the cables once but never had to replace a coil...

Cylinders 5 and 6 misfiring but do not use the same coil - ouch!


Any help will be greatly appreciated..! ty


04 DC 4x4 V6 TACO, FR (OME 882, OME N91S), REAR (OME N85, TT AAL + 2" shackles), Deck Plate Mod, TF

SO/TX

As a follow up here are the error codes:

P300 Misfire Cylinder(s)
P305 Misfire Cylinder 5
P306 Misfire Cylinder 6
P351 Ignition Coil Primary and Secondary Malfunction

I don't understand why 5 and 6 would misfire together; as they are on different coils but clearly seems to be a coil issue...

I have an '04 and my understanding of the cylinder #'s are

REAR
5 6
3 4
1 2
FRONT

Does anyone know if these numbers are consistent with error codes?

I have just moved all the coils (1,3 and 5) to see if the error moves with the coil placement...

any help will be greatly appreciated!

J2F42C

On my 3.4L, cylinder #5 & #6 both use the same coil. Did the CEL go away when you swapped the coils?

Do you get spark at the aformentioned coil?

Did you clear the code by removing the negative battery for a couple of minutes?

Last, what kind of wires did you use as replacements?

SO/TX

Thanks for your quick response...

Only after batter was disconnected for >45 sec

here is the schematic for the '04



believe so...

Yes - cleared - waiting a few to drive to advanced auto and recheck

Bosch Wireset (appears to be in good shape but I do see where you are going with this.. have to check that too... but if 5 coil was out 2 would be misfiring as well right?

Kiroshu

Yea if its miss firing on 5 and 6 its more than likey the coil. And P351 code tells you that. Its common. Replace Coil.

Kiroshu

Wait... thats the diagram for the 3.4? I thought 5 and 6 were together?

>_<

Which codes were the current codes? One or some of those could be history codes.

SO/TX

and so you see the source of my frustration - will post the new errors later - I moved:

coil 5 to 3
coil 3 to 1
coil 1 to 5

have to wait and see what she throws - pizzzzaaaaaa atm

J2F42C

I would say that the coil pack is probably bad. Replace it if the code comes back or shows a different cylinder. OEM # is 90919-02212. $75 at toyotapartszone.com vs $100+ at the dealer.

When you can set aside $30 for spark plug wires, buy these:
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-TE66-Wire-...=vglnk-c565-20

The only things Bosch that should be in/on 4runners/Tacomas are batteries, wipers, and oil filters, nothing else. And possibly power tools if ya have them.

I'll check my wires tomorrow but that pic I believe is not the same for my 4 runner.

SO/TX

ok - just got back

Engine light was flashing by the time i got there of course and went solid on the way home (not sure what the difference is...)

anywho, after switching the coils i got:

P300
P306

So - first off it appears that the 6 cylinder wire is bad...

now I moved the 5th coil to the 3rd and that is the same one which feeds the 6th on the opposite side...

On the '04

Coil 1 -> 4
Coil 3 -> 5
Coil 5 -> 2

So - I may have a bad coil as well but going to try changing the cables first - seems like I only put the others on a year and a half ago or so (I guess it's time) - strange they looked like the Bosch but Autozone told me i have a lifetime warranty on 'durolast' set so going to go get the freebies and see where that takes me...

J2F42C

As long as the AZ wires are free, use them. If not, place the order for the NGKs.

I've used AZ wires before on other cars, and speaking from experience, they are not worth the time to stand in line for checkout. But I have a neighbor who loves them and they have worked well for him. Go figure.

SO/TX

ok - this was really lame - apparently i must have tripped the coil when testing the prob and reset not made sure it reset all the way - have done all b4 but it was a bad cable after all - my bad - thanks for the input.

On a side note - i would like to add that I use AZ for brake pads, cables (not plugs) and items that need to be replaced - they always swap out the bad ones for free when i buy the lifetime deal. While they may not be the 'best' they are free

J2F42C

Don't get me wrong, I like AZ quite a bit (thanks in large to the no knowledgeable eye candy they have working in there on the weekends), but the beef I have is that their stuff is not close to OEM quality for most parts. Pads, rotors,alt, starter is about all for me.

Glad to see ya fixed it.....

brian2sun

I just had bad luck with the Autozone brake pads I put on my Honda CR-V. They are effed up. The squealed and screeched so bad I took them out a few weeks later and they were all rough and had metal flakes imbedded into the pad material which were causing all the noise. Took em back, fought for my money and got it, got some pads from the auto parts store down the street and walla! Quiet as ever again. Every time I walk into Autozone, I'm a little more disappointed. I'm personally done with that place unless it's a dire emergency. No eye candy at my AZ either - just a few fat, middle-aged women with moles.

tommytuttle

So what is happening with your situation, was it the wire?

I have a 2000 with the 3.4L. I'm gettting a really bad hesitation. I checked the codes and got. 300 303 and 306. I've since cleared the codes and they haven't come up again but I have a pending p303.

My wife was driving the vehicle when it started hesitating, she thought it was right after a tank of fuel so I've been running premium with a little splash of alcholol (in the fuel not the driver) which has helped a little. But reading this post it sounds like I may have a coil or wire issue. .. or plugs?

Anyone have the diagram for the 2000 3.4L? is it the same as the "04? Are cyl 3 and 6 linked by the same coil?

brian2sun

1&4 are on the same coil, 3&6, and 5&2.

Cylinder #s:
Windshield
5 - 6
3 - 4
1 - 2
Radiator

tommytuttle

Thanks.

I had cleared the codes and the check engine light has not come on, despite the driving. I have a pending P303 but not the P306?

I guess I will give it a little more time to see if I get a pending 306.. then I suppose I could try swapping the coils.

dallison

I think i had similar codes on the wifes 01. I had the wires replaced at az or advance auto under the lifetime warranty and i also replaced the plugs while i was at it since they were cheap and that cured the issue.

If it doesn't cure yours, it's prob the coil.

To check it out, i'd move the coil to another cylinder to see if you get a new code but similar problem, like you said.

tommytuttle

Yeah I will have to find some time for that.

Cleared the codes last night and drove it to work this morning..
Got to work and checked codes.. two pending P300 and P 303. No P306 this time.

I guess plugs and wires are relatively cheap.

This is not helping my case to keep the 4runner when we buy a new car. Wife wants a Mazda 5 so I was hoping to keep the runner for towing and winter trips into the unplowed cottage road. might even find its way to some goodlies if it were not a daily driver.

tommytuttle

Well update.

I moved the coils from #1 and #3 and the problem moved to #1. So i bought a new coil.

I thought it was a little better.. but not.. still heasitating only no codes?

I was reading on a T100 forum about the knock sensor wire grounding out, as well as an aray of other things.. whew..


Should i have taken the negative terminal off the battery to reset or by clearing the codes does that do it? Maybe my computer is still compensating for the bad coil?

It almost feels like something is plugged then it clears up and goes ok?

Any assistance would be appreciated.. recommended next step? fuel filter, plugs, wires? (if it were plugs or wires wouldn't it consistently be heasitating and not clearning up?)

We just bought a new car, my plan was to keep the 4runner for my work vehicle but if it is going to be giving this issue, I'm not sure I can justify hangining on to it!!1

brian2sun

Your still missing. It'll miss and not always throw a code. I'm sure of this because mine did that many times before I got it rebuilt. Have you changed the plugs and wires yet? That is usually the first step if they are old.