CV Joints/Front axle question
09-19-2005, 05:20 PM
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CV Joints/Front axle question
I searched this a didn't find the answer I was looking for so I'll just ask it now.
In my '95 runner I noticed a clicking/clunking that would happen on occasion, mainly when turning. I looked under the front end and there is a thick grease flung everywhere and it appears to be coming from the inside cv boot on the passenger side. The boot is still intact with no visible tears.
First question: could the CV joint be causing the clunking?
Second question: shoud I replace the joint or the whole axle?
Next, I need to find out what caused the problem. I have automatic hubs and am wondering if the front axles normally spin when I drive? Right now they do (at least at 5-10 mph, thats as fast as I felt comfortable hanging out the door looking). I thought the whole purpose of disengaging hubs was to let the tires spin and not the axle/transfer case assembly. I'm am wondering if my hubs are stuck closed and then driving around like that got a cv joint hot and made it go out.
Any experince/advice would be great...I am on a student budget so I can't go all out but don't want a quick (crappy) fix that I will have to do again in 6 months.
In my '95 runner I noticed a clicking/clunking that would happen on occasion, mainly when turning. I looked under the front end and there is a thick grease flung everywhere and it appears to be coming from the inside cv boot on the passenger side. The boot is still intact with no visible tears.
First question: could the CV joint be causing the clunking?
Second question: shoud I replace the joint or the whole axle?
Next, I need to find out what caused the problem. I have automatic hubs and am wondering if the front axles normally spin when I drive? Right now they do (at least at 5-10 mph, thats as fast as I felt comfortable hanging out the door looking). I thought the whole purpose of disengaging hubs was to let the tires spin and not the axle/transfer case assembly. I'm am wondering if my hubs are stuck closed and then driving around like that got a cv joint hot and made it go out.
Any experince/advice would be great...I am on a student budget so I can't go all out but don't want a quick (crappy) fix that I will have to do again in 6 months.
09-19-2005, 05:37 PM
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there has to be a tear it in if there is grease everywhere.
yes, it is most definetly the cv making the clunking
if its clunking and making noise, it most likely is damaged and you should replace the entire axle.
as for the hub, its probably stuck, but don't ask me, i don't know anything about the automatic locking hubs. does it actually say on the hubs that they are automatic locking? or do you have a.d.d. hubs?
yes, it is most definetly the cv making the clunking
if its clunking and making noise, it most likely is damaged and you should replace the entire axle.
as for the hub, its probably stuck, but don't ask me, i don't know anything about the automatic locking hubs. does it actually say on the hubs that they are automatic locking? or do you have a.d.d. hubs?
09-19-2005, 05:40 PM
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I got the same problem with my front drivers side cv. Boot is split and slinging grease and the tear is about 1/2" long. I would say go to an auto parts store near you and pick up a whole new axle because its just much simpler to change that way and doesn't cost much. You more or less have ADD and your drivers side cv still turns when out of 4WD. Get some manual hubs and it will stop turning and save on the life of the cv.
09-19-2005, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by KevyWevy
even if you go to the local auto parts store, it will cost a good chunk of change. try a salvage yard.
09-19-2005, 06:02 PM
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Thanks for the fast reply...a cv joint/boot is only $20 and the axle is about $110. Is it worth the difference?
Also, how would I know if the hubs are stuck and what do I do about it if they are? I though about jacking the front end up and spinning the tires to see if the axle turns. Then I would put it in 4x4 and see if there is a difference. No difference should = stuck hubs...or is my logic bad somewhere? I do believe that I have the ADD hubs...so that means that just the driverside should spin?
Thanks
Also, how would I know if the hubs are stuck and what do I do about it if they are? I though about jacking the front end up and spinning the tires to see if the axle turns. Then I would put it in 4x4 and see if there is a difference. No difference should = stuck hubs...or is my logic bad somewhere? I do believe that I have the ADD hubs...so that means that just the driverside should spin?
Thanks
09-19-2005, 06:07 PM
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Well your axle is already making noise so that means its pretty much toast. Buy the whole axle and be done with it. Plus if you crank up your torsion bars it puts more strain on the boots by putting the axle at more of a radical angle. I doubt if your ADD is stuck in 4WD. Have someone to look at it while you go slow and make sure the passenger side isn't turning.
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09-19-2005, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by callmej75
The question is...does he want another temp fix or something that will last a while? Junkyard stuff that has things such as rubber on parts that has been laying around tend to weather fast and get brittle. If it was an all metal part...I'd say go for it! The boot rubber worries me though...plus cv's are like $80 a piece?
ok from what i know there are 3 different types of hubs on the 4Runners and trucks.... ADD hubs, Manual Locking hubs, and Automatic Locking hubs.
if you have ADD hubs, they WILL be spinning whenever you are driving. no matter if you're in 4WD or not. the hub is ALWAYS locked.
if you have manual locking hubs, then they will only be spinning when you have have them locked, doesn't matter if you're in 4WD or not
automatic locking hubs, from what i know will not be spinning, unless you are in 4WD, but like i said before, im no expert.
and yes, if it is making noise, the entire axle needs to be replaced.
09-19-2005, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ToferUOP
autozone has CV axles for 70 bucks plus they have a life time warrenty NO questions asked. i've torn mine 3 times now... get a new one at no cost
but i see thats on your list of things to come. btw, how much do you have your tbars cranked with the bj's? mine are currently cranked all the way and i still have a tad bit of rake, but it looks good.
09-19-2005, 07:43 PM
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bgibb, on your '95 it has ADD (auto disconnecting differental, i think that's what it stands for) the stub axels or half shafts will always turn even if it's in 2wd. You'll probably only hear the clunk in 4wd (probably when turning the wheels) at least that's my experience.
Torn cv's eventually (after a year ~12k miles) will most likely destroy that half shaft. On that note, if you were to preventivly pay someone to fixe the boots it'll run you close to what it would be to replace the axel also, b/c you still have to take it all apart and reassemble. If the tear happened recently and you good with a wrench you can replace yourself cleaning out the old grease and any grit and putting in new, which should save the axel. That's only if there isn't too much damage already. To do the above, you can either get the boot kit from toyota or (toyotapartscheap.com) or autozone. The former is a oem boot you'll have to disassemble the whole thing and reassemble, the later is a two peice (from my understanding, i'll be able to provide more insite tomorrow) solution with the autozone or napa boot kit you don't have to take it all apart, but it's harder to get clean that way.
I drove with a torn boot on my '95 for about a year (through all sorts of stuff including sand, dirt, mud, etc.) before it blew out and started clunking. Even then it was only ~$300 to fix. Good luck.
As an aside i just tore both front outer cv boots on the beach in martha's vineyard, pretty craptacular considering the car is 1 month old. Sometimes you just have to laught, have a drink, and come up with a duct tape engineered solution. At least in my case...
At least I get another day vacation!
Torn cv's eventually (after a year ~12k miles) will most likely destroy that half shaft. On that note, if you were to preventivly pay someone to fixe the boots it'll run you close to what it would be to replace the axel also, b/c you still have to take it all apart and reassemble. If the tear happened recently and you good with a wrench you can replace yourself cleaning out the old grease and any grit and putting in new, which should save the axel. That's only if there isn't too much damage already. To do the above, you can either get the boot kit from toyota or (toyotapartscheap.com) or autozone. The former is a oem boot you'll have to disassemble the whole thing and reassemble, the later is a two peice (from my understanding, i'll be able to provide more insite tomorrow) solution with the autozone or napa boot kit you don't have to take it all apart, but it's harder to get clean that way.
I drove with a torn boot on my '95 for about a year (through all sorts of stuff including sand, dirt, mud, etc.) before it blew out and started clunking. Even then it was only ~$300 to fix. Good luck.
As an aside i just tore both front outer cv boots on the beach in martha's vineyard, pretty craptacular considering the car is 1 month old. Sometimes you just have to laught, have a drink, and come up with a duct tape engineered solution. At least in my case...
At least I get another day vacation!
09-19-2005, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by flyAddict
bgibb, on your '95 it has ADD (auto disconnecting differental, i think that's what it stands for) the stub axels or half shafts will always turn even if it's in 2wd. You'll probably only hear the clunk in 4wd (probably when turning the wheels) at least that's my experience.
Torn cv's eventually (after a year ~12k miles) will most likely destroy that half shaft. On that note, if you were to preventivly pay someone to fixe the boots it'll run you close to what it would be to replace the axel also, b/c you still have to take it all apart and reassemble. If the tear happened recently and you good with a wrench you can replace yourself cleaning out the old grease and any grit and putting in new, which should save the axel. That's only if there isn't too much damage already. To do the above, you can either get the boot kit from toyota or (toyotapartscheap.com) or autozone. The former is a oem boot you'll have to disassemble the whole thing and reassemble, the later is a two peice (from my understanding, i'll be able to provide more insite tomorrow) solution with the autozone or napa boot kit you don't have to take it all apart, but it's harder to get clean that way.
I drove with a torn boot on my '95 for about a year (through all sorts of stuff including sand, dirt, mud, etc.) before it blew out and started clunking. Even then it was only ~$300 to fix. Good luck.
As an aside i just tore both front outer cv boots on the beach in martha's vineyard, pretty craptacular considering the car is 1 month old. Sometimes you just have to laught, have a drink, and come up with a duct tape engineered solution. At least in my case... At least I get another day vacation!
Torn cv's eventually (after a year ~12k miles) will most likely destroy that half shaft. On that note, if you were to preventivly pay someone to fixe the boots it'll run you close to what it would be to replace the axel also, b/c you still have to take it all apart and reassemble. If the tear happened recently and you good with a wrench you can replace yourself cleaning out the old grease and any grit and putting in new, which should save the axel. That's only if there isn't too much damage already. To do the above, you can either get the boot kit from toyota or (toyotapartscheap.com) or autozone. The former is a oem boot you'll have to disassemble the whole thing and reassemble, the later is a two peice (from my understanding, i'll be able to provide more insite tomorrow) solution with the autozone or napa boot kit you don't have to take it all apart, but it's harder to get clean that way.
I drove with a torn boot on my '95 for about a year (through all sorts of stuff including sand, dirt, mud, etc.) before it blew out and started clunking. Even then it was only ~$300 to fix. Good luck.
As an aside i just tore both front outer cv boots on the beach in martha's vineyard, pretty craptacular considering the car is 1 month old. Sometimes you just have to laught, have a drink, and come up with a duct tape engineered solution. At least in my case...
At least I get another day vacation!since its already clunking he needs to change the entire axle. that means that it is damaged. you can easily change the cv yourself with a few sockets. there are some great write ups on it. if you search. very simple. i've changed a boot on my 4Runner because i caught it soon enough and the tear was pretty small. it is much harder to change the boot than it is to replace the entire axle. if i can do it, then anybody can do it.
09-20-2005, 04:39 AM
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Wow, thanks...I guess its time to change the axle then since it already cluncks. I just talked to a buddy of mine who can get me partsat cost cause he works at a parts place.
I am scratching my head about the ADD. Why does it let everything turn under there? Doens't that increase wear, decrease gas mileage, and defeat the whole purpose of disengaging hubs?
How hard are manual hubs to install and should I do that now if I can get the money together (a.k.a. talk the wife into it)?
Last question (for now) can I still drive it like it is or will that cause damage to anything else that will not be fixed when I replace the axle?
I am scratching my head about the ADD. Why does it let everything turn under there? Doens't that increase wear, decrease gas mileage, and defeat the whole purpose of disengaging hubs?
How hard are manual hubs to install and should I do that now if I can get the money together (a.k.a. talk the wife into it)?
Last question (for now) can I still drive it like it is or will that cause damage to anything else that will not be fixed when I replace the axle?
09-20-2005, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bgibb
Wow, thanks...I guess its time to change the axle then since it already cluncks. I just talked to a buddy of mine who can get me partsat cost cause he works at a parts place.
I am scratching my head about the ADD. Why does it let everything turn under there? Doens't that increase wear, decrease gas mileage, and defeat the whole purpose of disengaging hubs?
How hard are manual hubs to install and should I do that now if I can get the money together (a.k.a. talk the wife into it)?
Last question (for now) can I still drive it like it is or will that cause damage to anything else that will not be fixed when I replace the axle?
I am scratching my head about the ADD. Why does it let everything turn under there? Doens't that increase wear, decrease gas mileage, and defeat the whole purpose of disengaging hubs?
How hard are manual hubs to install and should I do that now if I can get the money together (a.k.a. talk the wife into it)?
Last question (for now) can I still drive it like it is or will that cause damage to anything else that will not be fixed when I replace the axle?
Warn manual hub install writeup. The manual hubs usually cost about $130. It is worth it in the life of the cv's. Talk to the wife...have her come help you change the cv's...then ask her...want to go through this again sometime? She will proudly give you the money for the hubs.
09-20-2005, 06:21 AM
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the thing about the ADD hubs is that the cv's spin, but all the spinning stops inside the front differential, so your front driveshaft isn't spinning, nor is your transfer case.
manual hubs is always a good idea, especially if you have plans to ever lift it in the future. like stated above aisins are good and you can just buy them used and rebuild them, there are lots of write ups on how to do that as well.
manual hubs is always a good idea, especially if you have plans to ever lift it in the future. like stated above aisins are good and you can just buy them used and rebuild them, there are lots of write ups on how to do that as well.
09-20-2005, 10:25 AM
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I think I will search the junkyards and see what I come up with...now I need to know how long I have. We can cut back our driving to 5-10 miles/day but we have to have two vehicles (I can take it to work and back and nothing else)...how long can I nurse it with out damaging anything else that won't be replaced with a new axle?
09-20-2005, 01:33 PM
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hmmmm you might be able to just take it out until you can find a new one, but i don't know how good of an idea that is. or maybe just take the ADD hub off, that might work as well. what does everybody else think about those options?
09-20-2005, 08:54 PM
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here... go HERE , read the article, listen to the mp3. I think the clunking your describing might sound a little like this. You may have to listen to it a few times. But, then read on... I'm going to have to do this in the next few weeks.
Last edited by Keggo; 09-20-2005 at 08:56 PM.
