CV joints
#1
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CV joints
Copied my post from trail talk, wanted to get as much input as possible:
The last thing I wanted to see when I walked by the runner today (notice the thrown grease on the frame)
Peeked my head in over the tire and this is what I saw (passenger side):
Looking up from the bottom:
Looks like the driver side is just barely starting too:
Well ok so 3 yrs with a lift it was bound to happen eventually, now I'm looking for some advice from you guys that have been there done that. What exactly is this telling me (besides that it's lifted)? The boots appear to be intact, the clamps are there, yet the grease seems to be coming from the end of the boot where the clamp is holding it? I don't really have time right now to climb in there and get dirty and check it out good, is it safe to drive like this? What do I need to fix/replace to correct this? Any other advice greatly appreciated. Thanks.
The last thing I wanted to see when I walked by the runner today (notice the thrown grease on the frame)
Peeked my head in over the tire and this is what I saw (passenger side):
Looking up from the bottom:
Looks like the driver side is just barely starting too:
Well ok so 3 yrs with a lift it was bound to happen eventually, now I'm looking for some advice from you guys that have been there done that. What exactly is this telling me (besides that it's lifted)? The boots appear to be intact, the clamps are there, yet the grease seems to be coming from the end of the boot where the clamp is holding it? I don't really have time right now to climb in there and get dirty and check it out good, is it safe to drive like this? What do I need to fix/replace to correct this? Any other advice greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#2
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Well, unfortunately, I can't be of any help. I just wanted to say mine look identical. Grease everywhere, and alot of noise now.
I'm having the stealer replace the whole shaft/boots/bearing while it's in the shop for the timing belt.
I'm having the stealer replace the whole shaft/boots/bearing while it's in the shop for the timing belt.
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Replacing the whole shaft is the easiest, but most expensive option, but rebooting them is not bad either.
There are a lot of write ups on the web about how to do it and it is really not a big deal for a shade-tree mechanic to pull off. With practice you can get it down to about 30 minutes a side.
If it just started leaking, it has hundreds of miles before anything will even come close to failing, but with each mile you increase the chances of contamination getting in and thus requiring a full replacement, not just the boots. It's a trade off you need to decide on your own.
There are a lot of write ups on the web about how to do it and it is really not a big deal for a shade-tree mechanic to pull off. With practice you can get it down to about 30 minutes a side.
If it just started leaking, it has hundreds of miles before anything will even come close to failing, but with each mile you increase the chances of contamination getting in and thus requiring a full replacement, not just the boots. It's a trade off you need to decide on your own.
Last edited by WATRD; 03-14-2003 at 01:03 PM.
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For boots you might want to consider these - http://www.mecatech.com/products/cv_boots_car.htm
Talk to Gary at: http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/toyota.htm
As for leaky boots, replacing the stock clamps with stainless hose clamps usually does the trick. Some use 2 - 2" clamps so the adjusting knobs are opposite each other while others like myself just use a 3.5" stainless hose clamp, that's for the CV side, the small end would probably only take one 2" or two dinky ones? The small end normally doesn't leak before the CV end but then again, Ole Man Murphy must be riding shotgun with ya all
Talk to Gary at: http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/toyota.htm
As for leaky boots, replacing the stock clamps with stainless hose clamps usually does the trick. Some use 2 - 2" clamps so the adjusting knobs are opposite each other while others like myself just use a 3.5" stainless hose clamp, that's for the CV side, the small end would probably only take one 2" or two dinky ones? The small end normally doesn't leak before the CV end but then again, Ole Man Murphy must be riding shotgun with ya all
Last edited by Joe; 03-14-2003 at 03:58 PM.
#6
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I get some clicking out of my left front CV in 4 wheel drive when it's under some stress. I've got no leaks, but does this mean it's on its way out? If any of us tackle these things ourselves (replace with reman shaft assembly) what kind of ching are we talkin'?
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repeat
i put my two cents in on a post by MattM1215 but i'll just repeat myself again.....my wife's uncle works for the new york city mechanics department and when our boots busted (i think only one burst but that some bastard at sears sliced a couple) he said that if you lose all the grease that is bad, but if you catch it before all the grease is gone and dirt and crap get in to the joints you can just re-boot it..but if all the grease spins off you probably have to get new axles....
also, if you hear 'clicking' or 'grinding' noises when you turn the wheel my uncle-in-law said that that was probably a good indication that the joints have dirt and crap in them or on them...
sounds like a good reason to go solid
sorry if my repeat is annoying
also, if you hear 'clicking' or 'grinding' noises when you turn the wheel my uncle-in-law said that that was probably a good indication that the joints have dirt and crap in them or on them...
sounds like a good reason to go solid
sorry if my repeat is annoying
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#8
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Re: repeat
Originally posted by rabidbeaverbaby
also, if you hear 'clicking' or 'grinding' noises when you turn the wheel my uncle-in-law said that that was probably a good indication that the joints have dirt and crap in them or on them...
also, if you hear 'clicking' or 'grinding' noises when you turn the wheel my uncle-in-law said that that was probably a good indication that the joints have dirt and crap in them or on them...
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to my simple mind it wouldn't make sense that you would be losing oil without tears in the boots....so maybe there is a tiny tear.....how much oil is there on the underside? my one that totally exploded put A LOT of oil on the underside of my runner...maybe some oil could leak out from the oil seals at the end of the axle shafts???? no idea just guessing...i would say you would have to really look at all 4 boots to know for sure...maybe with a magnifying glass or something to help see small tears......
serious pain in the ass....but you don't wanna lose all your oil cause that would suck....i think i found re-manufactured boots for like 30 apiece....no idea how reliable....but a big difference from 180 per axle that i paid.....
good luck!!!!!!
serious pain in the ass....but you don't wanna lose all your oil cause that would suck....i think i found re-manufactured boots for like 30 apiece....no idea how reliable....but a big difference from 180 per axle that i paid.....
good luck!!!!!!
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oops
oh....as for your noise...i didn't realize your boots were still intact......i would guess the noise could be for something else....i know when i had a stuck piston in my caliper and i turned the wheel sharply it made a grinding noise.......
noises are hard...............
noises are hard...............
#11
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#12
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Hey Cebby..did this start before of after your aisin hub install? maybe its that color paint you used..made it mad since you didnt go red.. when MY spindle brushing went astray..it was a constant noise and it didnt do it when it was in 4wd.
#13
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Well, I think my probelm is still a little different. Mine only makes any noise while IN 4WD turning right when I'm on the gas (hard). In 2WD, no noise - hubs locked or not locked. I thought I had this noise with the ADD too. I'll need to try it now and see. I wonder if it's the temperature or maybe my hub isn't engaging the whole way for some reason. I'm going to pull the dials and have a looksie.
#14
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this would solve the boot problem! probably price though
http://www.drivetechnologies.com/page8.html
http://www.drivetechnologies.com/page8.html
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