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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

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Old 11-29-2004, 02:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Brake noise? Glazing?

Hello -

I need some expert diagnosis skills. My front left wheel has recently start making some mild rubbing/grinding noise while in motion (fast and slow). No major vibration, clicking, or shuddering transferred to the steering column. The sound resembles wore down brake pads.

However, an unusual noise comes when I put my vehicle in reverse, and occassionally I hear several "clicks", and then no more. The clicking gets worse if I braking while hitting potholes, in which case the clicking is very very loud.

Replaced both front brake pads about 2 wks ago, hoping to aleviate the problem, but with no success. The rotor was smooth, with no unusual feel in texture.

My shocks are quite soft, and will need to be replace very soon.

Or is it a rotor wear/tear problem? Shock problem? I read something about glazing. Would these symptoms fit?

Thanks.
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Last edited by Badmice1; 11-29-2004 at 02:31 PM. Reason: Update info
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Old 11-29-2004, 02:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Lotsa possibilities, as simple as a rock inside the guard behind the rotor, or a bad wheel bearing seem most likely based on your description. No reason why shocks could do that. If no shuddering while breaking and the brakes feel fine, I wouldn't suspect the rotor or something like sticky calipers. If it was sticky calipers it would likely overheat the brakes in short order anyway. Glazing doesn't generally make any noise, it just makes the brakes less effective and more prone to overheating. And a blown or worn out CV usually makes horrible clanking sounds... From your description my first thought was a wheel bearing.
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Old 11-29-2004, 03:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks x4. I have never worked on bearings before, so I'm not familar with what "damaged" or loose bearings look like? Know of any write-ups for repair?
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Old 11-29-2004, 04:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sounds like it could be wheel bearings. To check it, jack the front up a little off the ground, grab the top an bottom of the tire, and check for movement. Grab the front and back of the tire and check for movement. If your bearings are real bad (like mine were recently) you'll notice right away.

Here is a link with replacement instructions:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/wheel_bearing.html
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you have manual hubs might be worth rebuilding them...just a shot in the dark.
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I second the wheel bearings. Changed my drivers side a week ago. It was 13.99 for the outter Bearing and like 15.00 for the inner. I didn't need to replace the races as they were fine.

Its a fairly straight forward job, and something everyone should be doing (Re-packing there bearings <---- this way you dont have to replace them) overall it took about an hour to do.
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Hummer
something everyone should be doing (Re-packing there bearings <---- this way you dont have to replace them)
I don't know what year badmice has but the newer ones have sealed bearings, no repacking, and they last a really, really long time, unless something else causes them to fail prematurely.
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help everyone. I have a 3rd gen 4runner (98 SR5 4WD). Do I do the replacement as a pair (ie both left & right front), or would it be ok to replace just the left side for now?

Also I don't believe I have a manual hub, since it's a 3rd gen.

I did more research yesterday, and since it is a 3rd gen, I believe the bearings are sealed (correct?) If that is the case, I would simply replace the bearing assembly as a whole (no repacking) correct?

Thanks again.

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Old 11-30-2004, 10:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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one side is ok. you don't have a manual hub. you have add, I mean the 4runner has add.

about the sealed bearings, I guess you didn't read my post above.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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you will need to remove the spindle though, so you can bring it to a press to press out the old and press in the new. or are you going to have a shop do it for you?
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:18 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Keisur-

Sorry, did read your previous post re: seal bearing. I've never worked on bearings before on a vehicle, so I wasn't too sure when replacing if I am repacking or not. Clarified now.

Not too sure about the "pressing out the bearing" part, is that something I can do on my own (with special tools?) Or is it easier to do it at a shop?
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The jack it up and grab the tire and wobble method doesn't show if the bearing is bad, only loose. A bearing can be loose and be fine - in fact, if in doubt, looser is better than too tight... Jack it up and spin the tire, if the bearing is bad 99% of the time you can hear it. Sounds like static on the radio. Don't confuse it with the sound of the brakes rubbing. Anyway, if the bearings are the serviceable type, when you repack them routinely (like we all do, right on schedule.... ) you should clean and inspect them each time. If you see anything like pitting, anything not perfect - replace them.
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:48 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Flamed - Thanks.

It looks like my bearings are sealed, so no repacking required. However, is the replacement job something I can do out of my garage? Or is this job going to the shop?

Thanks,
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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You can do it in your garage. I just did mine yesterday. LF wheel. Replace your inner and outer bearings at the same time. Just smart. You'll get the outer bearing and race as a package. The inner bearing is on it's own, and you'll need a new bearing seal. I paid about $17 each for the three parts. You'll need to run to Sears to get a 2 1/8" socket, and a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. Probably take you a couple hours. You'll want to clean it out really well and dump tons of grease in there.
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The bearings on our trucks, mice, are "pressed in" and are also sealed. the bearings these guys are talking about are the serviceable kind so they just pull everything off, clean abd repack with grease and slap everything back together, alot easier and no pressing involved. Ours don't require servicing "right on schedule." when they need service it's time to replace them, but that shouldn't happen for well over 100k with these sealed bearings. if you don't have a press then don't attempt it, let a shop handle it, or pull the spindle and bring it to a shop to avoid all the labor charges for the easy part, disassembly and reassembly. the hard part is pressing out the old and pressing in the new, not something the ordinary guy does in his garage without a press.

create a sig for your posts that states the year and specs of your runner like in mine so they know you don't have the serviceable bearings.
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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on this site you will see the serviceable bearings, you can repack these, you don't have these: http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

in this pic you can see my (and yours) setup, the bearing is pressed into the shiny part in the center of the rusty looking spindle:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-30-2004, 06:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Are the sealed bearings $115 EACH like the JeepTJ? I was floored... "What's the world coming to...first no lube points, now sealed bearings... in a 4x4"... (he walks away muttering....)
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Old 11-30-2004, 06:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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no, they're only like 50 or so each. unless you go to the local stealership.

about the good 'ol lube points and stuff, you gotta remember that these last almost the life of the truck except on occasion of something else causing premature failure. they don't require service every 15k or 30k so the sealed bearings, in my opinion, are a step up. I have yet to have one go out from wear and I have 120k+ on mine. I replaced the rear drivers bearing because I had to pull everything apart to replace the outer seal, so it was just convenient to go ahead and do it too.

The lube points, the only thing I hate is that the ball joints don't have them, but that's easy to do by pulling the metal boot wire thing and squirting lube in the boot and putting on a new wire.
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Old 11-30-2004, 07:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I don't want all of these recommendations to go to waste....

...and, I don't want to sound like a dumbass, but does anyone have a recommendation on how to remove the 2 caliper bolts if they're WAY TOO TIGHT? I am using the simple sockets + wrenches (sorry no power tools).

If I can't get them off, I've got no choice but to take it to the shop, and I hate to give up my hard earned cash to remove 2 bolts...

Any suggestions?
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Old 11-30-2004, 07:48 PM   #20 (permalink)
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a breaker bar always does the job for me, a 17mm socket I believe but don't quote me. also if the breaker bar won't get it, either hit the handle a few times with a 2 or 3 pound rubber mallet or use an air impact wrench. I use a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar. the first time was a doozy but after that I can get them out no prob. remember they've been in the cast part for quite a while and if a shop did your breaks for you more than likely they over torqued them. just keep at it and they'll bust loose.

you may have to "move" the brake line over a little to get the socket to fit.
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