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Old 09-03-2004, 09:12 AM   #1
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Cross-drilled vs. slotted vs. both

I need to replace the brakes on my 4Runner. I want to upgrade my brake but have been faced with multiple options:

Cross-drilled
Slotted
Cross-drilled & slotted

I don't mind shelling out the extra bucks for the cross-drilled and slotted, but is it worth it?

Any input is greatly appreciated!
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:33 AM   #2
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To me, you're not going to notice significant changes when switching between normally vented rotors to cross-drilled/slotted rotors. To really notice a difference, you'll need upgrade your callipers and rotor size, or swap over your rear drums to discs. If you're doing it for looks, then by all means go cross-drilled & slotted, but to me, for the money it's not worth it. Just my .02
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:36 AM   #3
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I've heard bad things about drilled rotors cracking due to high heat. I would recomment cross drilled.

BTW: I always ask this but never get an answer. If you get stronger brakes in the front , Won't it throw off the balance because of the rear drums? (sliding sideways under emergency braking)

Last edited by 2001Millrunner; 09-03-2004 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 09-03-2004, 10:03 AM   #4
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you won't notice a dif besides looks, and your brakes prob won't heat up hot enough on the street to crack.
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Old 09-03-2004, 10:05 AM   #5
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The best money you can spend is probably on some good pads that handle high heat well
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Old 09-03-2004, 11:39 AM   #6
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I had cross drilled rotors on my old truck (1990 pickup) and they did help a little. The big difference was in the brake fade. Before I got the cross drilled rotors, there were a few times I couldn't stop! The rotors would get so hot that pressing down on the brakes wouldn't work. With the cross drilled rotors, I NEVER had that problem, not even the slightest case of it.
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Old 09-03-2004, 11:42 AM   #7
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so you prolly dont need this unless you tow or drive like a manic from NASCAR?
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Old 09-03-2004, 11:58 AM   #8
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Thanks for the input everyone!

I don't ride the brakes excessively. I do use them more than I care to when off-road, but I can't help that (yet). I will be using a set of Performance Friction pads and I'm thinking about upgrading to SS lines.

Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2004, 12:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001Millrunner
so you prolly dont need this unless you tow or drive like a manic from NASCAR?
Not necessarily true.

I was simply going down a hill, the brakes got way to overheated (due to larger tires, etc.) It had nothing to do with me "riding the brakes" I went to stop, and simply didn't. I rolled onto a high way. I was incredibly lucky that it wasn't a busy one because the speed limit on that stretch was 60. If I had been side swipped, I might not be here today.

The towing part is true.

Basically, if you have larger tires, tow, or you use your brakes a lot then make the brakes better. Keeping them cool/having them cool off faster is better in every way.

Also, since cross drilled rotors cool quicker, the have a much less chance of warping.
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:21 PM   #10
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If you get a chance to, call Brembo direct.
714-641-5831
The guy I spoke with was very informative. He knew about their new street pads and probably which rotor to go with.His name is Mendel Yano (ops manager, racing division)
ext 223 .
Cross drilled rotors do cool faster and work really well in the wet.
I think Mendel was saying they were getting away from cross drilled and vented due to some wear factors (?) Give him a call or e-mail myano@brembo.com.
He said he would be glad to answer any questions I had.Well that's at least when he handed me his business card.
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Old 09-04-2004, 01:03 PM   #11
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get a set of brembo blank rotors, good set of pads, and some heavy duty brake fluid. fresh good brake fluid is very important. you don't want your brake fluid to boil, thats when you'll get brake fade and the pedal will be all mushy. you won't notice a difference with slotted or drilled rotors, except the difference in your wallet. take the calipers apart and clean the pins and regrease them with caliper grease. also clean off any rust on the hubs where the rotors mount.
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Old 09-04-2004, 01:07 PM   #12
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Cross-Drilled can crack, slotted won't. I had a set of slotted on my Prelude and it was one of the best mods I ever did.
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Old 09-04-2004, 01:36 PM   #13
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I have herd before that they can get cloged with dirt or mud, and I believe it was on this site. You might want to do a search for further info.
I also belive that a quality set of break pads with do a lot of good.

Last edited by deznoches; 09-04-2004 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 09-04-2004, 02:01 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by deznoches
I have herd before that they can get cloged with dirt or mud, and I believe it was on this site. You might want to do a search for further info.
I also belive that a quality set of break pads with do a lot of good.
I've got cross-drilled and slotted rotors, and you will notice a difference between the braking power of stock versus this setup. When these wear out, I'm going to get either cross-drilled or slotted, but I'll never do both again. I'm leaning towards cross-drilled for better cooling ability. You just lose too much surface area when you have both.

Chris

P.S. I didn't read any posts, so this may be helpful at all.
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Old 09-04-2004, 03:20 PM   #15
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For SUVs and light trucks, drilled rotors are not recommended as these have less mass to absorb braking energy and to dissipate heat. A lot of drilled rotors have cracked due to poor heat dissipation coupled with less mass to absorb the braking energy.
It is recommended that you get factory-slotted rotors. I would recommend DBAs.

HTH.
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Old 09-04-2004, 03:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001Millrunner
BTW: I always ask this but never get an answer. If you get stronger brakes in the front , Won't it throw off the balance because of the rear drums? (sliding sideways under emergency braking)
I think sliding sideways is caused by locking rear brakes and/or a heavy rear but with less braking power. That is why non-ABS equipped trucks have the Load-Sensing Brake Proportioning Valve (LSBPV) in the rear. If you have a heavy rear, more braking power is assigned to the rear brakes; and less if you have a lighter rear.

HTH.
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Old 09-05-2004, 03:04 PM   #17
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I recently switched from normal vented rotors to vented/slotted. There is definitely an improvement that can be felt.

I've heard the issue of cracking with cross-drilled, so that's one of the reasons I didn't go that route.
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Old 09-06-2004, 05:47 AM   #18
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I agree with Cebby regarding cross-drilled or cast rotors. NASCAR is reviewing cross drilled rotors due stress fatigue causing the rotor to crack. Cross drilled also reduces the braking surface because of the holes and counter sinks (if any) around the holes. Perfer vented because it allows the hot gases to escape and doesn't cause fatigue.

Brembo is probably the best manufacturer of rotors. I can't think of any other except for Bauer.
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Old 09-06-2004, 08:18 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oly884
Not necessarily true.

I was simply going down a hill, the brakes got way to overheated (due to larger tires, etc.) It had nothing to do with me "riding the brakes" I went to stop, and simply didn't. I rolled onto a high way.

Now this statements contradicts itself????

Please explain how your brakes overheated without applying them? When going on a down hill road, select a lower gear range and back off the gas. Sounds like you kept hitting the brakes to control the down hill speed and eventually overheated the rotors, in other words riding the brakes. Unless your brakes were so bad in the first place, that when you went to use them, they just simply didn't have the stopping power, if that's the case then they weren't overheated.
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