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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

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Old 11-27-2007, 01:53 PM   #1
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Crank pulley (Harmonic balancer) bolt hole for puller size??

I have a harmonic balancer puller to try and get my crank pulley off. I'm in the middle of a timing belt change. The pulley won't come off freely. (Yes the 19mm bolt is removed lol) What size bolts do i need to attach the puller to the pulley? I've tried two kits and neither had the right threads! Help!!!
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2001 4Runner SR5 |265/70 All terrain TA's | Plasti dipped badges |

SOLD:2000 4runner LTD | 3.4L | e-locker | TJM T-15 | 305/70/16 maxxis buckshot | powder coated procomp 1069's |Lightforce 170's | Yakima Load Warrior Rack | Warn M8000 w/Viking synthetic winch rope | 4crawler 1" BL | Front:OME lift 881's w/ 1 1/4" daystar spacers + N91S shocks. Rear: OME 891's w/N86 shocks | Stubbs welding sliders | Cobra 75 WX ST w/ K40 fiberglass 2' antenna
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Old 11-27-2007, 02:08 PM   #2
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UPDATE: A friend just got back to me and said it's either 8 or 10 x 1.25. Can anyone verify this? I think i have the 8's so maybe i'll just buy a few 10's.
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SOLD:2000 4runner LTD | 3.4L | e-locker | TJM T-15 | 305/70/16 maxxis buckshot | powder coated procomp 1069's |Lightforce 170's | Yakima Load Warrior Rack | Warn M8000 w/Viking synthetic winch rope | 4crawler 1" BL | Front:OME lift 881's w/ 1 1/4" daystar spacers + N91S shocks. Rear: OME 891's w/N86 shocks | Stubbs welding sliders | Cobra 75 WX ST w/ K40 fiberglass 2' antenna
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Old 11-27-2007, 04:33 PM   #3
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They are 8mmx1.25. You'll need bolts long enough to reach the very back of the pulley, because only the rear part of the holes are 8mm and threaded (maybe the last 1/4" or 3/8" at the back of the holes). The front end of the holes are 10mm (or just under, because a 3/8" bolt fits in there) and are not threaded. The front part of the holes are used to insert the crank pulley holding tool, when removing or installing the crank bolt.
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Old 11-27-2007, 05:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSGALLANT View Post
They are 8mmx1.25. You'll need bolts long enough to reach the very back of the pulley, because only the rear part of the holes are 8mm and threaded (maybe the last 1/4" or 3/8" at the back of the holes). The front end of the holes are 10mm (or just under, because a 3/8" bolt fits in there) and are not threaded. The front part of the holes are used to insert the crank pulley holding tool, when removing or installing the crank bolt.
Ditto.....and hopefully they aren't rusted at all.

Put some antiseize on the crank nose when you go to reassemble.
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Old 11-28-2007, 03:41 AM   #5
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Ugh...so i just didn't stick the bolts in far enough to find the threaded part! Thanks for the help!!!
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SOLD:2000 4runner LTD | 3.4L | e-locker | TJM T-15 | 305/70/16 maxxis buckshot | powder coated procomp 1069's |Lightforce 170's | Yakima Load Warrior Rack | Warn M8000 w/Viking synthetic winch rope | 4crawler 1" BL | Front:OME lift 881's w/ 1 1/4" daystar spacers + N91S shocks. Rear: OME 891's w/N86 shocks | Stubbs welding sliders | Cobra 75 WX ST w/ K40 fiberglass 2' antenna
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:16 AM   #6
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Don't beat yourself up... it's a common mistake! Good luck with the rest of the job. Make sure you get the crank bolt torqued back up properly to 217 ft-lb (I also used blue loctite on the crank bolt threads to give me a bit more assurance that it won't back out). Take your time putting the belt back on and make sure you're timing marks are all lined up properly before closing everything back up. Other than that, you should be good to go.
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TJM T15 Front Bumper & Warn M8000, 4xInnovation sliders, Sonoran Steel 1.2 Lift, Toytec LCA Skids, Tundra Brake Upgrade (231mm), Extended rear diff breather, Deckplate Mod, Andymod, Dual batt setup with Optima blue top aux battery, Hardwired 1000W inverter, Aux fuse box, Full time power to 12V plugs, Yaesu FT7800R Radio, "4-air" system for airing up/down tires.

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Old 11-28-2007, 08:16 AM
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1996, 2003, balancer, bolt, camry, crank, harmonic, haronic, load, pulley, rear, size, stick, tool, tundra

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