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Crank Pulley Broke - Need Ideas - 99 4R 3.4

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Old 01-02-2013, 08:39 PM   #1
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Crank Pulley Broke - Need Ideas - 99 4R 3.4

Hey all. I need some suggestions. I've been giving my 99 3.4 4R some much needed TLC over the last few months. I started the timing belt change Tuesday night (being in no hurry) and started the reinstall tonight. I got to the point where I was to torque down the crank bolt when the darn pulley broke.

I got the bolt on as tight as I could with my regular 1/2 wrench and then put on the torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lb. On my first pull the flat part of the crank pulley where you stick you two pronged crank/cam pulley tool broke from the rest of the pulley. So now the part you have to hold in place with the tool just spins.

I can get a nice shape used crank pulley, but any ideas on getting the broke one off? There's quite a bit of torque on the bolt (I know I did not get to 217 before it broke) so I need to somehow really get the pulley held tight to remove it.

Thoughts?
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:44 PM   #2
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Impact tools.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:48 PM   #3
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I could not kick on the compressor at this late hour to try. What I'm worried is I only have a 60 gallon compressor that kicks out around 125psi. I don't know if it will have enough to turn it off. I know at the full 217 it could not as I was being lazy and did not want to really use the crank/cam tool.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:55 PM   #4
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Brace a breaker bar against the frame or the ground, use the trucks starter to break it loose.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:16 PM   #5
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Great idea. What is the fastest/easiest way to ensure the truck does not start up while trying this?
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatda02 View Post
Great idea. What is the fastest/easiest way to ensure the truck does not start up while trying this?
unplug the ignitor
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:32 AM   #7
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Thanks. I tried air first and as I figured my little compressor did not have enough juice to get it out. I then pulled the igniter and that did the trick. I got a tracking number for the used one I bought, but it probably won't be in till next week.

Looking at the one that broke it seems to be not put together that well for something you have to hold in place while putting 200+ ft/lbs on it. Maybe it's just old age like the rest of the truck.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:38 PM   #8
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I hope someone reads this as it is still on topic.

Looking at the broken pulley, the inner part and outer part are held together by nothing more than rubber. Maybe they were bonded at some point, but it is still rubber on metal. There are four holes on the outer part (the part where the belts ride) and four holes on the inner part (when the bolt goes through to hold it in place). On the inner part, two of the holes are filled with protruding rubber that then goes through two of the four holes on the outer. It would appear besides this possible bonding process, this rubber helps keep it in place - looks very weak to me.

So when I get my new pulley I don't want the same thing to happen. I'm using this pulley tool:

Amazon Amazon


As you can see, the pins in this tool are only about two inches long - they do not extend far enough to hold onto both the inner and outer pulley. I would almost envision needing to make my own tool where it has pins that are long enough to hold both parts of the pulley instead of holding just the inner while you are trying to put 200+ ft/lb of torque on the thing.

Or am I looking at this wrong and my pulley/rubber bonding just got weak over time?
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:45 PM   #9
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Make up this tool for holding the crank....especially helpful when re-torquing the crank bolt:
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/cranksh...l-tool-186081/

I use bolts that I can thread into the harmonic balancer and have never had one come apart.


Edited link.

Last edited by rworegon; 01-03-2013 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:26 PM   #10
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The tool I have, although paid 35 for, is very similar to what is in the link. The bolts appear to be even shorter than what I have. I think what I'll do is get some all thread and make the "bolts" long enough to go through both the inner and outer parts. I can't see how the same thing will not happen again if both the inner and outer are secured as one.


Link was dead, but this should be the one:

http://www.yotatech.com/f116/cranksh...l-tool-186081/
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:34 PM   #11
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I simply used longer bolts with a nut on each side of the bar so I can make the threaded length whatever I want.

I hold the tool up to the balancer, thread each bolt into the holes, and then snug up the two nuts on each bolt so the tool is flush with the balancer.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:14 PM   #12
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Yup, I see what you are saying. My broke pulley is pretty rusty along with the holes. I think I'll wait to get the new pulley in and see which bolts will fit nicely and do as you did.

Thanks for the advice.
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