1990mudslut

Well I just got a new yota last Thursday and im already running into problemsOk here is alittle info on the truck 97 tacoma ext cab 2.7l 4x4 5speed.The truck does have a 3 inch body lift any it may have messed some things up because the truck inst even setting like it should on the frame.

Here is the problem i have encountered,Now it does this randomly and is really agurvating.Ok well for first gear you have to push the clutch all the way to floor to get it into gear,sometimes you might have to pump the clutch twice.I can always get it into gear but sometimes the clutch just looses all of its pressure after it gets in gear and the truck tries to go.Like the clutch pedal has no pressure at all behind it, light as a feather.Like i said its random and when i does it i have always noticed that the clutch has no pressure behind it.

I have checked the clutch cylinder up top its got fluid in it.I just don't know what else to look at before i take it to the shop and pay labor fees.

eric-the-red

It's possible that the seals on the clutch master cylinder are going, so when you push the pedal fluid goes past the seals and doesn't get pushed out the line. Get someone to look at the clutch fork on the trans while you push the pedal. If it's not moving fully then the master has probably failed, or is failing. Rebuilt master cylinders are not very expensive and easy to replace. It's usually a good idea to replace the salve cylinder at the same time.

PismoJoe

x2 but I would just get new parts, don't mess with rebuilt. I would check your clutch lines as well to make sure that that body lift didn't stretch them out to the point they they are possibly leaking/weeping.

1990mudslut

ok Ill get someone to look with me today.how hard are they to replace?

PismoJoe

I'd give it a level 1 difficulty lol. Just get some metric flare nut wrenches to avod damaging the clutch line nuts, and some PB blaster to spray on these nuts about an hour before you want to do the work. It really helps to have a friend present while bleeding the clutch system.

So pretty much, drain the brake fluid from the clutch slave via the bleeder screw. (sticks right at you when looking at the clutch slave on the tranny)

Then remove the clutch slave (Torque 13ft/lbs dont break these bolts on reinstallation)

Then remove the clutch master. (don't forget the clip that holds the shaft so the clutch pedal, you'll see it when you look under your dash)

Hook up the new clutch master and clutch slave. SNUG brake line bolts tight, don't break these either. Apply a LIGHT amount of motor oil to the threads so they go in smoothly and it helps fight corrosion as well.

Get a tube to put on the clutch slave bleeder screw, and submerse the other end of the tube into a bottle with brake fluid in it. Fill the clutch master with dot 3 brake fluid.

This is where a partner is handy. Have him pump the clutch pedal a few times, then on a downward push, open the bleeder valve on the clutch slave. Always tighten the bleeder while the pedal is fully depressed. Then have him pull the clutch up, and then repeat, opening the bleeder on downward push, then close it while the pedal is all the way depressed.

Repeat this bleeding process until no air bubbles are coming out of the tube connected to the bleeder valve on the clutch slave. It helps to use a clear plastic tube, make sure it fits snug on the bleeder.

detailed pics and instructions can be found in the FSM.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html