JimiJams

Hey, Lately I've been getting clunking sounds coming from the driver's side wheel when I hit bumps and when the car shifts back after stopping. I've read this is most likely a bad ball joint. The tie rod joint is on its way but not enough to have any play so it's not that.

From what I understand, to check the ball joints, you're supposed to jack the car up and then jack the lower control arm up slightly and then pry up on the tire and check for play. Can someone explain how to tell if there's play though? Would play be like the ball joint moving a little first before the control arm moves with it? Thanks!

Andrew

SnowRunner98

major loose jiggling, (slop) thats my best guess.

raydouble

Don't forget to check the steering rack bushings also.

If the balljoints are really bad you can jack up a tire, and with your hands at 12 and 6 O'clock wiggle back and forth like checking wheel bearings.

JimiJams

yeah I just replaced the rack bushings last summer so those should be good. When I tried to wiggle the tire at 12 and 6 it wouldn't budge but at 9 and 3 it would move but the steering knuckle (I think that's what it is) would move with the wheel. All the steering rack bolts were tightened down to spec but maybe I have to tighten them down a little more??? Steering's a mess on this truck right now. Aside from this, the steering wheel has about a half inch of freeplay in it. It's making me nuts

raydouble

I wouldn't tighten them down more, just re-torque to spec.

How about the sway bar bushings? Grab hold and try to shake it to pass side and drivers side.

For the steering, do what is called a "dry park test"
Have someone inside move the steering wheel back and forth rapidly about two inches each way........get under there, with the tires on the ground, you should be able to pinpoint looseness in the tierod ends/rack etc.
Pay special attention to the inner tierods and the rack itself.

Imagine the ball of the joint trying to jump out of it's housing.

JimiJams

The free play in the steering wheel I've almost pinpointed. I can turn the steering shaft by hand the same amount as the free play in the wheel. So it's either the rack or somewhere between the steering shaft u joint and the rack. Maybe the pinch bolt or the u joint itself. I just wannna fix this ball joint problem first so it doesn't decide to break when I'm driving. I just don't know if it's the upper or lower or maybe something else entirely but I'm pretty sure it's a ball joint.

97ltd4x4

Here is a good link on checking balljoints:
http://www.carquestchassistraining.c...balljoints.htm

Usually you need another person to lay on the ground with a flashlight and watch for movement,I have used a floorjack handle under the tire for leverage...For the follower joint(upper) you can check by yourself by jacking up vehical,use stands on frame,remove wheel,place floorjack under control arm and compress suspension untill that side just starts comming off the stand,then using a big pry bar get under the upper control arm..pry bar tip into spring/spring perch..... and pry up quickly..all the while watching for movement from the upper joint.

If you have clunking going on the bad balljoint will show up quickly..any visual movement=replacement...and I would replace in pairs..

JimiJams

Hey 97LTD, the ball joint should move with the control arm but not independently of it right? I have no concept of a ball joint at all, like what it looks like under the boot so I can't picture how a bad one would be acting. Thanks for the link too, I'll check it out.

JimiJams

anyone know where to get some moog ball joints for cheap??? Or is there some reason I should stick with toyota parts here? Thanks for all the help guys!

97ltd4x4

.....

97ltd4x4

If you are going to do the work yourself..might as well get OEM parts online at a discount.....My theory is if its held up for 100k+,150k+,200k+...then so should the new OEM parts even with a small differance on price.

JimiJams

I'm planning on doing it myself. As soon as I make sure what exactly is causing the sound. I'm still unsure. The truck's only got 74k on it though so if moogs will last longer or something else then I'll just go with that.