Changing Spark Plugs on 1998 V6 Tacoma - YotaTech Forums


Go Back   >


95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners
Sponsored by:
Click Here

     
Old 03-30-2016, 11:15 AM
How-Tos on this Topic
 
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:Browse all: Toyota Tacoma Electrical Guides
Print Wikipost

Changing Spark Plugs on 1998 V6 Tacoma

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-03-2007, 09:00 PM   #1
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 55
Changing Spark Plugs on 1998 V6 Tacoma

I've changed plugs in a lotta vehicles but never in a 1998 V6 Tacoma. Is there anything I need to know before I start? Any tool that will make things easier? Any problems accessing the plugs? Which plug removal socket will I need to buy?

Any gotchas???
Pipsisiwah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 09:06 PM   #2
Contributing Member
 
Elton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Siletz,Oregon
Posts: 12,261
need some long extensions a metric socket set anti seize dielectric grease some screw drivers to remove the intake maybe clean the throttle body while you got it tore apart i found it best to use a sparkplug socket to remove the plugs then use it to get a few turns on the new plugs then remove it and switch it over to a deep metric socket also only use factory denso plugs or ngks

Last edited by Elton; 06-03-2007 at 09:08 PM.
Elton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 09:36 PM   #3
Contributing Member
 
Elkaholic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: WA
Posts: 437
On the 5VZ the plugs are like 6 inches down so an 8 inch piece or so of 1/4 inch tubing/fuel line will help. Put the plug on the line and spin it in that way to ensure you dont crossthread since you cant put them in by hand. Once the tubing starts slipping throw the socket on and tighten up.

Oh and taping the socket or wedging a little piece of cardboard between the socket and extension sidewalls will ensure you dont lose the socket down in the hole
Elkaholic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 10:16 PM   #4
Contributing Member
 
spaugh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 540
put duct tape inside the socket unless you have a spark plug socket to hold the plug in the socket or else you will never be able to get them out. Change the tape each time if it gets damaged (it will). You don't want to loose the tape in your engine.
spaugh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2007, 04:04 AM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Goldsboro, NC
Posts: 35
Everything the above posts have stated. If you want to maintain the factory plug setup, use Denso's on the driver's side and NGK's on the passenger side. Don't know why it was setup this way, and I don't believe it's a performance issue more than it is a production issue. Or, go with NKG's all the way around. For some reason the Denso's seem to wear faster. Good luck.
tderose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2007, 04:08 AM   #6
Contributing Member
 
icerunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chicago (area) IL
Posts: 313
everyone had good advice
You probably allready know this but always stick with the denso or NGK duel electrodes, as it requires "duels" and it says so right on the engine.

Exactly as stated by everyone else, the only thing that I would do extra besides the anti sieze and rubber hose tip (a real great tip to not "cross thread")

is when you have the coil pacls off of the car before the old plugs are removed. clean the outside of the rubber plug extension with a damp towel and then Blast each plug tunnel with Compressed air for at least ten seconds each (or vacuum). Any debris that falls into engine through the spark plug chamber can score the heck out of your cylinder walls.

Also take care not to over torque (strip) or under torque the plugs. Tighten just enough to where you feel the metal plug washer initially crush and form its seal (and then give it a slight 1/8 to 1/4 turn after that).

Last edited by icerunner; 06-05-2007 at 04:12 AM.
icerunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2007, 01:42 PM   #7
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: DC
Posts: 69
http://www.4runners.org/writeups/sparkplugs/index.html

I used a 5/8" spark plug socket though technically I think the spark plugs are actually a metric size (16mm?). Some of the plugs are harder to get to than others. I ended up using various combinations of extensions depending on what was needed.
Phat Ham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2007, 04:00 PM   #8
Contributing Member
 
rimpainter.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,916
An often overlooked must-have for spark plug changes is a wire feeler-type gapper. You CANNOT use the old-school gappers on these plugs. You have to do this very carefully too. It's tedious, but it must be done because even "pre-gapped" plugs from the dealer can be off.

rimpainter.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2007, 05:50 PM   #9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Goldsboro, NC
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by <96 Runner> View Post
An often overlooked must-have for spark plug changes is a wire feeler-type gapper. You CANNOT use the old-school gappers on these plugs. You have to do this very carefully too. It's tedious, but it must be done because even "pre-gapped" plugs from the dealer can be off.

That's pretty old school in itself! The plugs he needs should come pre-gapped from the factory, and set to the correct gap out of the box. I personally wouldn't mess with a Toyota OE plug that has been pre-gapped.
tderose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2007, 06:02 PM   #10
Registered User
 
4runnerx3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 907
I think he's saying to double check the pre-gap on the new plugs. A couple out of the six may be off some. And what ever you do, don't use Bosch Platnium plugs.
4runnerx3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2007, 08:30 AM   #11
Contributing Member
 
rimpainter.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by tderose View Post
I personally wouldn't mess with a Toyota OE plug that has been pre-gapped.
I found my "pre-gapped" OE plugs to be way off from the dealer. It's a $3 tool and well worth the time to double-check the gap while the plugs are out and before you get misfires.
rimpainter.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2007, 04:33 PM   #12
Contributing Member
 
Ironmike4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Upsate SC
Posts: 3,567
Quote:
Originally Posted by <96 Runner> View Post
I found my "pre-gapped" OE plugs to be way off from the dealer. It's a $3 tool and well worth the time to double-check the gap while the plugs are out and before you get misfires.
I highly agree... I've caught myself quite a few times when changing spark plugs at work. 90% of the times they are right, but the other 20% is why I'm glad I've checked before I have one pissed off customer.
Ironmike4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2007, 09:22 PM   #13
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 55
Thanks for all your replies and tips. I have the tools, now all I need is for the spirit to move me...
Pipsisiwah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2007, 03:44 AM   #14
Contributing Member
 
icerunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chicago (area) IL
Posts: 313
Go slow and go 1 plug (and plug pack) at a time.... trust me

as these plugs are not the most accessable and be prepaird to take some components off (air duct for air cleaner ect... )on the left and right side banks of the engine.
HEY, while you have the air intake assembly you can also clean the throttle body at the same time!

Believe it or not, even though this is fairly strait foward there is potential to break things or mess things up and therfore i would consider this a semi "moderate" job that took me about 90 minutes total both times that i've done it, and you be suprised how involved it is to carfully replace 6 plugs on a 3G runner. And I forgot to attach one of the plug packs and my SR5 started immediatly and died with a registered error code. I reattached the wire plug for the plug pack and reset the computer and good to go.
good luck and god speed

Last edited by icerunner; 06-20-2007 at 06:19 AM.
icerunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2007, 04:47 AM   #15
Registered User
 
netwt12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Auburn,Al
Posts: 530
good advice above. all i can ad is to let the engine cooldown before you start. a) so you don't burn your hands, b) you could strip out a plug hole if the engine is really hot.
netwt12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
nvwiggins building Blue on a budget...for now nvwiggins 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section) 13 06-16-2016 03:05 PM
Please help! smthwsn357 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 7 04-11-2016 05:22 AM
SAS Planning Help stanz 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 13 10-30-2015 10:33 AM
Truck has an odd miss I can't figure out Sam hain 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 19 09-30-2015 08:25 AM
Couple of specific water pump questions... TJWilly 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 6 07-31-2015 02:05 PM


Tags
1998, 1999, 34, 4runner, change, changing, plug, plugs, repalcing, replacing, socket, spark, special, tacoma, toyota, v6

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:16 PM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.