YotaTech Forums  

Go Back   YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Welcome to Yotatech!
Welcome to Yotatech,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-06-2010, 09:35 AM   #1
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
BigBallsMcFalls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 847
Can I drive 90 miles with radiator cap loose or off ?

new radiator haz a slow leak (coffee cup per 15 minutes) at the bottom
doesn't leak when engine off (unpressurized)


if I drive unpressurized, I should be able to keep enough coolant in there
to make a 90 mile drive to the shop who installed the radiator so they can
replace it.

Do you think I will be OK driving the 99 4runner 1 hr 30 minutes with the cap loose ? normal pressure is .9 atm (13lbs)

I will bring 2 gallons of 50/50 with me, and watch the temp gauge of course.

do ya think I can do this no problem ? move day temp should be in the 70's
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!
BigBallsMcFalls is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 09:45 AM   #2
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
hross14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 1,485
question is whether you are going to lose more with the top being lose or the cup every 50 minutes?

What about putting some pepper in the radiator to see if it slows the leak down until you get it to the shop?
__________________
Yes, I said "country." America really is a nation, but you couldn't convince those who lead the Democratic and Republican Parties of that. Both parties now see America as nothing more than an economy, a marketplace, and not a sovereign nation. They don't see you and me as citizens of this great nation; they see us as units of labor, consumers and taxpayers.

Yes, I am here to collect my 238$ worth of stock from AIG.

"What do you mean a free market economy doesnt apply to the rich?"
hross14 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 10:20 AM   #3
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
wyoming9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Posts: 6,058
Red face

Do you have the means to remove the radiator and transport it back to the shop.

With my luck at the worst place that slight leak would get real bad. I would be along side the road now with a towing bill yet.

Something like this happened years ago to a company vehicle the boss said dump water in.

I said it runs out faster then I can pour it in.

Good luck no matter what you decide.
wyoming9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 10:25 AM   #4
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
aa1911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 1,222
coffee cup every 15 minutes is a slow leak??

you can drive it, just bring a bunch of dH2O with you and top off periodically. watch the temp gauge, should be fine. had to do it a couple times, once in my 4runner last year idling on I-5 in 85 degree weather. bring a book...

I would try and temporary patch the leak though, if the shop won't mind some JB weld or epoxy, lol
__________________
'00 Tacoma XC SR5 3.4 Supercharger, DT Headers, Jardine exhaust, Devil's Own Alcohol injection, URD Fuel/Timing upgrade kit, 2.2" pulley, ARB bumper, IPF lights, OME 882/AAL and Nitro shocks, BFG A/T 265/75/R16 on Soft 8's, custom intake

'93 4Runner 3.Slow D.O. Alcohol injection, ISR Mod, 'big 3' mod, Yakima rack, HID's, mostly stock until time/$$ makes it a beast. picked up a SFA from an '83 - ready to SAS!!

'08 Sequoia SR5 4WD, ARB bumper, BFG A/T KO's 275/65 R18- 381hp grocery getter!
aa1911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 10:32 AM   #5
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (6)
 
mightymouse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: st. louis
Posts: 1,695
replace it with a good radiator then take the crappy one back to the shop and get your money back. Just because you can do it (drive 90 miles with leaking radiator) doesn't mean you should. But that's just my opinion so what's risking your engine worth? definately not a radiator to me. Let me know if you decide to do and take before and after pics of your engine bay when you're done. It's going to get messy!
__________________
RIP 1990 4wd stdrd cab.
1991 2wd stdrd cab; new project! daily driver bone stock for now. "Travis"
1984 sr5 4x4. "Eleanor" Some stuff done to it. more stuff getting done.
1999 sr5 4runner "Kitty" wife's dd. leaving it stock.
mightymouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 10:32 AM   #6
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
aa1911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 1,222
had a bad coolant 'explosion' in my old S-10, was traveling along the blue ridge parkway and all of a sudden my passenger side floor was sitting under 2" of antifreeze and more would gush out from the lower heater vent every time I accelerated or went uphill.

made it over an hour to a shop that was open with a fraction of the coolant left in the system, I think I only added a water bottle or two; had to shut it off at stoplights to keep the temp down but made it
__________________
'00 Tacoma XC SR5 3.4 Supercharger, DT Headers, Jardine exhaust, Devil's Own Alcohol injection, URD Fuel/Timing upgrade kit, 2.2" pulley, ARB bumper, IPF lights, OME 882/AAL and Nitro shocks, BFG A/T 265/75/R16 on Soft 8's, custom intake

'93 4Runner 3.Slow D.O. Alcohol injection, ISR Mod, 'big 3' mod, Yakima rack, HID's, mostly stock until time/$$ makes it a beast. picked up a SFA from an '83 - ready to SAS!!

'08 Sequoia SR5 4WD, ARB bumper, BFG A/T KO's 275/65 R18- 381hp grocery getter!
aa1911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 10:40 AM   #7
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Teuf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 5,421
Send a message via AIM to Teuf
Fix it yourself, I wouldn't drive it.
__________________
http://pauldyerphoto.com

1988 Toy pu 4x, 22re, 5:29 gears font and rear, BFG 33/10.50/15 AT'S, American racing 15/8's rims, Downey Header, Borla Exhaust, Centerforce dual friction clutch, Magnaflow Cat, Schneider Cam, Spectre open cone air filter, 3" TG SAS, 3" NWOR Rear leafs and 6" shackles/added leafs. 12 / 10 " Bilsteins, SR5 Bucket Seats, Transfer case E brake. Lce head installed 5/09, Rotella t6 5/40 Syn / Toyota filter - 90915-YZZG3. / USMC /
Teuf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 11:10 AM   #8
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
TheDurk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Jersey and Sao Paulo
Posts: 874
It's not the leakage part of the loose cap, it's the lowered boiling point of the coolant that creeps me out. If it starts boiling inside the engine all kinds of bad things happen. 13 psi makes a big difference. Keep it pressurized, and stop as often as you have to to maintain your coolant level above Low....or, as others have said, don't drive it at all.

Sorry, I can't get this to format, this is for water, not coolant, but it's indicative. Unpressurized 50/50 ethylene glycol boils at only 225F, so its the pressure that keeps your engine from boiling over. Glycol makes a big difference in the freezing point, but not so much in the boiling point.


Boiling Points & Pressures
Pressure Boiling Temp. (Deg. F)
0 212
4 224
7 232
9 237
13 246
14 249
__________________
'99 "tall" 4Runner SR5 5sp 4WD 3.4 V6(U.S)--no boards, Hella Fogs, Trekmaster shocks, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, stock otherwise, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 (Japan model assembled in Argentina, bought in Brazil, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)

Last edited by TheDurk; 10-06-2010 at 11:27 AM.
TheDurk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 11:10 AM   #9
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (5)
 
ChefYota4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Palos Verdes, California
Posts: 19,096
Send a message via Yahoo to ChefYota4x4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teuf View Post
Fix it yourself, I wouldn't drive it.
x2...or whatever, lol. Maybe x3?

Anyway, I would NOT risk blowing a head gasket or whatever, due to their mistake. Just IMHO... If you can, take the time to find a ride and remove it, bring it to them... Or, call them and see if they'll have someone drop by and with a new one while picking yours up(a shop did that for me, they felt so bad that I got stranded... Of course, they had delivery trucks cruising all of LA County, all the time.) Might be worth at least asking, "hey, can you help out here, I'm stranded?" eh? Napa did that for me as well, one time. They messed up on a part and it caused me to stall.... their driver dropped one to me where I was visiting and picked up the old one.
__________________
My 87 4$Runner 22reeek Build

Latest in trouble-shooting thread, HERE, ANY HELP APPRECIATED!

ZUK MOD THREAD

MULTIPLE FSM'S!


87 4Runner;
BUILT NOT BOUGHT! lots of goodies, check threads^

Quote:
Originally Posted by engnbldr View Post
Do like me. Plug in Bob Segar and turn up the volume, all fixed...When something falls off, then fix it....Hey, pretty job there, Chef!..Congrats!!...*EB
ChefYota4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 11:14 AM   #10
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teuf View Post
Fix it yourself, I wouldn't drive it.
X4, if you do drive with zero pressure straight antifreeze (no water) would be the way to go.
__________________
93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG KM2, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.
mt_goat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 11:24 AM   #11
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
BigBallsMcFalls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 847
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
It's not the leakage part of the loose cap, it's the lowered boiling point of the coolant that creeps me out. If it starts boiling inside the engine all kinds of bad things happen. 13 psi makes a big difference. Keep it pressurized, and stop as often as you have to to maintain your coolant level above Low.

Sorry, I can't get this to format, this is for water, not coolant, but it's indicative.


Boiling Points & Pressures
Pressure Boiling Temp. (Deg. F)
0 212
4 224
7 232
9 237
13 246
14 249
it runs at 184 degrees normally

but at the cylinders it'll be way hotter. it should boil a little there constantly (which is OK as long as coolant stays there. if it drops...bad) and overflow some, but ...as long as something is boiling it cannot get hotter till it boils dry. water pump will make sure it stays flowing
since this is not a 'closed zero-air system' with a high mounted water pump. if that was the case, I'd be screwed. I had a car like that once and one little air bubble makes the water pump fail hard.

if i pressurize it and run it, and it overheats, I will need to wait 1/2 hour or more to pop the cap and top off. also I risk blowing the slow leak to a wide open mess. right now, it holds coolant at zero pressure.

if I run unpressurized, at least I can immediately top it up without waiting

----
I spoke to the radiator shop and they said just watch the temp gauge
closely. 1 1/2 hour will not hurt it (and surfing the net and what I know from being an old dinosaur...I agree I can likely do this just fine)


I'll post my outcome and how high my temp gauge went. it is 3 miles city driving, then 85 miles pure interstate, and 2 miles city again to get to the shop. I am gonna float the 'loose pressure cap and 2 gallons of 50/50 on hand) and see how it goes.

lets hope my next thread isn't: got screwed, now shop is fixing my head gaskets.

Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; 10-06-2010 at 11:27 AM.
BigBallsMcFalls is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 11:33 AM   #12
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Teuf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 5,421
Send a message via AIM to Teuf
QUESTION>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Why can't you take out your own radiator?

I wouldn't drive 88 seconds like that, that pushing it.
__________________
http://pauldyerphoto.com

1988 Toy pu 4x, 22re, 5:29 gears font and rear, BFG 33/10.50/15 AT'S, American racing 15/8's rims, Downey Header, Borla Exhaust, Centerforce dual friction clutch, Magnaflow Cat, Schneider Cam, Spectre open cone air filter, 3" TG SAS, 3" NWOR Rear leafs and 6" shackles/added leafs. 12 / 10 " Bilsteins, SR5 Bucket Seats, Transfer case E brake. Lce head installed 5/09, Rotella t6 5/40 Syn / Toyota filter - 90915-YZZG3. / USMC /

Last edited by vital22re; 10-06-2010 at 11:48 AM.
Teuf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 12:04 PM   #13
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
xxxtreme22r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Posts: 13,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teuf View Post
QUESTION>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Why can't you take out your own radiator?

I wouldn't drive 88 seconds like that, that pushing it.

I agree, this is a simple task just a few bolts and 2 hose clamps. Hardest part of the job is burping the system. lol.
__________________
3rd Annual YOTATECH Rausch Creek Run and 2012 EC4RJ Pennsylvania

Build Thread
BMW Thread

87 P/U 4X 5sp Weber Downey Hdr 2.25 Exh EB 268





xxxtreme22r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 12:07 PM   #14
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (5)
 
ChefYota4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Palos Verdes, California
Posts: 19,096
Send a message via Yahoo to ChefYota4x4
I really find that strange for a Radiator shop to give that type of advice. I'd bet you dollars to donuts that, ....if they had a similar situation, they'd pull the thing, call a buddy, have them drive em over to the shop, wait while it's fixed(20 min???) and drive back without ANYYYYYYYY risk of a 2 day repair in the mix, whatsoever. Not trying to be a paranoid, Debbie downer... but WHY risk anything at all?

Best wishes.... Hope you don't need to make a 'wish' along the way. I guess after all the work I've done to mine... I'm a lil more apprehensive about 'taking chances that aren't necessary'... but still, lol.
__________________
My 87 4$Runner 22reeek Build

Latest in trouble-shooting thread, HERE, ANY HELP APPRECIATED!

ZUK MOD THREAD

MULTIPLE FSM'S!


87 4Runner;
BUILT NOT BOUGHT! lots of goodies, check threads^

Quote:
Originally Posted by engnbldr View Post
Do like me. Plug in Bob Segar and turn up the volume, all fixed...When something falls off, then fix it....Hey, pretty job there, Chef!..Congrats!!...*EB
ChefYota4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 12:15 PM   #15
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
TheDurk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Jersey and Sao Paulo
Posts: 874
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt_goat View Post
X4, if you do drive with zero pressure straight antifreeze (no water) would be the way to go.
Because 100% antifreeze has less cooling ability than water (lower specific heat), you probably don't want to go over 75-80%. That would give you a boiling point higher than pressurized 50/50 and better cooling capacity than a 0/100 mix. I still don't like it.

My approach was intended to NOT have it boil over. Just refill the overflow tank before anything happens--every 15 min. if necessary. If your idea is to run unpressurized until it boils over, and refill with ambient temp liquid, I ....wish you, and your aluminum head engine, luck. I would NEVER deliberately do anything that would let one of these engines boil over even once. A cast-iron I6 sure.

Another old dinosaur
__________________
'99 "tall" 4Runner SR5 5sp 4WD 3.4 V6(U.S)--no boards, Hella Fogs, Trekmaster shocks, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, stock otherwise, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 (Japan model assembled in Argentina, bought in Brazil, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)

Last edited by TheDurk; 10-06-2010 at 12:31 PM.
TheDurk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 12:46 PM   #16
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,665
Yeah it will run a little hotter with straight antifreeze (maybe 10 degrees in hot weather) but it won't boil at zero pressure until you get well over 300* F.
__________________
93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG KM2, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.
mt_goat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 01:19 PM   #17
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
FogRunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Galveston, Texas
Posts: 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBallsMcFalls View Post
if i pressurize it and run it, and it overheats, I will need to wait 1/2 hour or more to pop the cap and top off. also I risk blowing the slow leak to a wide open mess. right now, it holds coolant at zero pressure.

if I run unpressurized, at least I can immediately top it up without waiting
With modern radiator caps you get half a twist and it dumps the pressure to the overflow tank. After that half a twist you have to push it down and turn it to get it off.

All you have to do is get a nice big rag and put it on top of the radiator cap and slowly turn it WITHOUT pushing down till it vents to the overflow and hits the safety stop. Once the pressure has vented press down and turn the cap off.

I've lost count how many times I've done this with zero problems. Also if you don't want to pressurize it just put the cap on and then twist it back till it hits the safety stop. In this position it won't built any pressure and it will keep coolant from sloshing out.


FOG
__________________
2001 4runner SR5 - ARB Bull Bumper, Warn 9.5XP, GM CS-144 150 amp alternator, Tundra brakes, OME 883/891s, SS adjustable traction bar, B&M 70264, and too many ham radios and antennas.
2006 Jeep LJ - Stock down to the lug nuts

Last edited by FogRunner; 10-06-2010 at 01:21 PM.
FogRunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 01:20 PM   #18
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
TheDurk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Jersey and Sao Paulo
Posts: 874
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt_goat View Post
Yeah it will run a little hotter with straight antifreeze (maybe 10 degrees in hot weather) but it won't boil at zero pressure until you get well over 300* F.
But there is no advantage in going much over the BP of pressurized 50/50 (226F). Then all you do is decrease the specific heat and increase the viscosity and you have to ram that liquid through the radiator core. These two factors, added to whatever reduction in WP efficiency you get from running unpressurized (cavitation more likely at zero pressure? not sure here), leads me to worry that you will not be extracting enough heat from the engine to protect it from damage, even though it sure as sh*** won't boil over. At least the thing WAS designed to work with 70/30 in cold climates so why go all the way to 100?

AND, if it goes dry, it WON'T alert the driver by steaming/boiling first (and the gauge won't help either) and now you get a seized engine. Boiling can be a good thing.

By the way, what is your source on what happens at 100% unpressurized--the 10F thing? Have you tried this? (not being combative, just honestly curious).
__________________
'99 "tall" 4Runner SR5 5sp 4WD 3.4 V6(U.S)--no boards, Hella Fogs, Trekmaster shocks, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, stock otherwise, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 (Japan model assembled in Argentina, bought in Brazil, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)

Last edited by TheDurk; 10-06-2010 at 01:39 PM.
TheDurk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 01:39 PM   #19
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
aa1911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 1,222
12mm socket x 4 bolts -> 2 minutes, pliers x 2 hose clamps --> 1 minute.... new radiator --> priceless (says the headgasket)
__________________
'00 Tacoma XC SR5 3.4 Supercharger, DT Headers, Jardine exhaust, Devil's Own Alcohol injection, URD Fuel/Timing upgrade kit, 2.2" pulley, ARB bumper, IPF lights, OME 882/AAL and Nitro shocks, BFG A/T 265/75/R16 on Soft 8's, custom intake

'93 4Runner 3.Slow D.O. Alcohol injection, ISR Mod, 'big 3' mod, Yakima rack, HID's, mostly stock until time/$$ makes it a beast. picked up a SFA from an '83 - ready to SAS!!

'08 Sequoia SR5 4WD, ARB bumper, BFG A/T KO's 275/65 R18- 381hp grocery getter!
aa1911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 02:21 PM   #20
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,665
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
But there is no advantage in going much over the BP of pressurized 50/50 (226F). Then all you do is decrease the specific heat and increase the viscosity and you have to ram that liquid through the radiator core. These two factors, added to whatever reduction in WP efficiency you get from running unpressurized (cavitation more likely at zero pressure? not sure here), leads me to worry that you will not be extracting enough heat from the engine to protect it from damage, even though it sure as sh*** won't boil over. At least the thing WAS designed to work with 70/30 in cold climates so why go all the way to 100?

AND, if it goes dry, it WON'T alert the driver by steaming/boiling first (and the gauge won't help either) and now you get a seized engine. Boiling can be a good thing.

By the way, what is your source on what happens at 100% unpressurized--the 10F thing? Have you tried this? (not being combative, just honestly curious).
I've been running waterless coolant for the last 3-4 years in my truck. There are lots of references for the BP of coolant by googling. He would have to work pretty hard to get to 100% antifreeze anyway. Yeah 80-90% would probably work fine.
__________________
93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG KM2, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.
mt_goat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 02:21 PM
Yotatech
4WD Truck




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
air, bmw, boil, busted, cap, cars, colder, drive, drove, engine, loose, mountains, radiator, run, trip

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:32 PM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.