Can I change drive/gear ratio?
#1
Can I change drive/gear ratio?
Since my 265/75/16's I notice of course that I have a taller ratio. Is it possible to get a shorter ratio with new ring/pinions and no major side effects?
I think I have a 4.30 ratio now, and a factory E-Locker. I'd like to get it down a bit for towing and beach riding, etc.
Any thoughts? Is it a huge task? I have an off road shop that could do the work if I could figure out what I needed.
Finally, is there an adjustment on the speedo in the ECU, etc or would it be chronically off?
Jeff
I think I have a 4.30 ratio now, and a factory E-Locker. I'd like to get it down a bit for towing and beach riding, etc.
Any thoughts? Is it a huge task? I have an off road shop that could do the work if I could figure out what I needed.
Finally, is there an adjustment on the speedo in the ECU, etc or would it be chronically off?
Jeff
#2
Contributing Member
If you have the 4.30 gearing, then you're pretty much perfect for gearing.
Any more, like 4.88, you'll be loosing hi-way economy. I suppose you could regear to 4.56 gearing if you do a LOT of towing, but, its going to cost you some money. I think it comes out to be ~$600 per diff?
Doing the regear is done by a professional, as the home mechanic is not advised to do it as it requires to setup/align the gears with shims and whatnot.
Any more, like 4.88, you'll be loosing hi-way economy. I suppose you could regear to 4.56 gearing if you do a LOT of towing, but, its going to cost you some money. I think it comes out to be ~$600 per diff?
Doing the regear is done by a professional, as the home mechanic is not advised to do it as it requires to setup/align the gears with shims and whatnot.
#3
Well, I notice a decrease in power with the bigger tires for sure. I'm always on the beach and I tow a 5200 boat/trailer. Rarely any highway. Maybe I'm not 4.30? It came with 265/70 stock.
#4
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im gonna say you have 4.10 or even lower, but thats just my semi-educated guess. you can find out for sure by either checking some numbers on your door jam or by comparing single tire turns (one rear tire) versus driveshaft turns. if you go higher in gearing, you are going to be losing highway-speed economy for sure, but youll have better lower end. its really a tradeoff. i'm on stock 4.10 gears with 33's and while it would be *nice* to have more low end, i have NO problem with it and i only reach 3k rpms around 80-85 (on my speedo, which is off, so its really a higher speed)
#5
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You have to check the door jam sticker and compare to the axle codes on sonoransteel.com
I'd stick to 4.56 if you dont plan on getting any larger tires....I donno, going 4.88 with 31-32", you'll be getting like 4k RPM @ 70mph.
I'd stick to 4.56 if you dont plan on getting any larger tires....I donno, going 4.88 with 31-32", you'll be getting like 4k RPM @ 70mph.
#6
I'd definately consider the 4.56. Does he sell the parts? I was happy with my system 7 from him. I'll check the codes now ...
Yep... 4.10's
Yep... 4.10's
Last edited by aquasport17; 03-27-2007 at 05:57 PM.
#7
Wow, looks like quite a process. I'd really have to research a shop well to do it. Okay - so it can be done. Thanks for the input. I saw the process on Steves site. Ouch.
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it is a big process and can be expensive, but its basically mandatory to go past your 4.10 if you hit higher than 33" tires. as i said, im running 33s on 4.10s and mine is just fine and ive towed some heavy things before. i think you should be ok
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definitely. youd be able to run 35s with that gearing. not optimally but some people do it. you can for sure do 32s. youll have higher rpms at highway speeds but much lower speeds in your low gearing, which is primo for off road
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