TYOTA

Ok guys I have a question. I did some searching with no results. I am trying to figure out how I can adjust my clutch, or find out what else my problem might be. Ihave a 97 4runner, manual trans, 107,000 miles. I have only had the runner for about 3 months and it has been doin this since I got it. What the problem is is that I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to disengage the clutch. Now I know it has to be pressed down, but I really have to push hard.. I took out the old clutch return spring and added the 2nd gen spring, and while I was in there I noticed that the rear of clutch pedal lever was actually hitting the floor making a mark in the carpet. I was just wondering if anyone knew how to fix this? Thanks for all the help.

This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

OutdoorLiving

Do you have to push it ALL the way to the floor for ALL gears? I commonly have to do this for 1st and reverse only.

__________________
1998 SR5 4WD 3.4l V6 5SPD
Dealer Options: 4.10:1 RR Diff Lock; Brush Guard w/ Hella driving lights [removed]
Mods: Thule Roof Rack w/ Canoe Gunwhales; Silverstars; Bridgestone Revo 265/75/16s; Maglite mod; Deckplate mod; Stickers!
Wishlist: TJM T-15; Custom rear bumper; 2" suspension lift; Satoshi mod; Gray-wire; Sliders; Full length skid plate; etc

TYOTA

I think thats what is happenin with mine too. It seems to shift sooner than the floor once im goin.. I wonder why?

mtxride

According to the chilton manual, there are 3 different clutch adjustments - pedal height, free-play and pedal pushrod play. I don't have the manual on me right now so I can't tell you how to do the adjustments, but maybe there's too much play somewhere...

it could also be that the clutch slave cylinder is going out. I had an explorer that the slave cylinder went out on and I had pretty much the same problem you guys are having. With the slave cylinder going out, the clutch wasn't fully disengaging making it hard to shift into gear while stopped. But once I got moving again, shifting was fine. Only thing with the explorer though, is that you have to drop the transmission to get to the damn thing... what a pain that was. On the 4runners, the slave cylinder is on the outside which should make it pretty easy to change.

also, check the fluid level. If it gets too low, air will start getting into the lines.

this article might help...
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...chmaintenance/

__________________
-chad-

2000 4runner SR5 4wd 5sp
| 1" lift pp coils | ARB bumper | 265/75/16 MT's on american racing wheels | detroit locker | deckplate, MIT and AMSOIL | magnaflow exhaust | Lars's discos | extended diff breather | yakima roof rack |

TYOTA

also i just went and looked at my fluid, it doesnt seem to be low but it is kind of brown lookin... would old dirty clutch fluid affect the performance of it? I am goin to change it tonight..

boogyman

i doubt dirty fluid would cause your symptoms by itself, but it never hurts to change it.

__________________
2000 V6 TRD 5spd | 1.5" body lift; 2.5" sus lift: SAWs, 8leaf deavers, downey shackles, bilstein 5125s, 32" BFG AT's | Magnaflow 18" muffler, Hella 500s, bentup sliders, polar bear guards, aluminum diamondplate skidplate, clear corners & bumper lenses, tonneau cover | deckplate mod, disable DRL mod, greywire mod, extended diff breather, clutch pedal mod

animator

That was my experience in my F-150 when the clutch master cylinder went out. I had to push the clutch to the floor to shift into any gears, and the pedal didn't feel as solid as it had before. I replaced the clutch MC and that fixed everything. 'course this is in an F-150, so take it for what it's worth.

khaug

Air in the clutch hydraulics will cause exactly the problem you describe. I'd start the diagnostic process by bleeding the clutch.

__________________
-Karl

'03 Titanium Limited, 4WD, V-8
Ex '98 4Runner Limited 4WD auto
'07 Porsche GT3
'88 Porsche 911 (For Sale!)