aowRS

I've done a search but could not find anything conclusive.

Recently the A/C in my '01 4Runner has started feeling week. It will cool slightly and will improve once the truck is driving for a while at sustained speeds, but it's certainly not as cool as it was for the last 5 seasons. I've had the truck since new and am interested in possibly adding a bit of refrigerant. Has anyone used these kits with good results? I'm not interested in fouling up the system, or taking it to the dealer only to be told that my catastrophic converter is failing.....

I'm all about the DIY - so let me know your thoughts.

Andreas

OSU4Runner

Just pick up a can of R-134a at autozone and filler up. I'm about to recharge mine as well. Just don't get caught venting freon lol.......some nasty fines!

aowRS

I've done this before on an older car but never felt that the amount of refrigerant was correct. Do you need a set of high/low gauges as well, or does the system only suck in as much as it needs to top off?

Andreas

OSU4Runner

There should be a gauge with like a bubble in it, right by the fill port.

eric-the-red

I used one of these on mine, also an 01 4Runner. It has a guage on it, just add until the needle gets to the top of the green. I put about 1/3 of the can in last spring, and another 1/3 last week. $15 for 3 years of cool air.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...goryCode=3571B

aowRS

Thanks guys - will need to look into this today.

Andreas

progress4m

This exactly what I did on my 1996 4Runner and it worked great.
Just make sure that you follow the instruction on the bottle in regards to turning AC on max and temperature outside when you are charging AC.

Tark

sweet, gonna go pick one of those up today..thanks for the product link

aowRS

I picked up a large bottle today. Comes with a hose and in-line gauge. The can has the instructions on it.

I almost purchased the kit, but then realized it was meant for those who would like to convert to R134.

I will try to take care of this later today and report back

Andreas

aowRS

Eric,
I went ahead and recharged the system as per the instructions on the can (same exact item shown in your link). Initially the gauge registered below 25 psi (green) and would spike to about 55 psi (yellow). After a while of re-filling, checking pressure, shaking, and re-filling, it got to a point where it would start at 25 psi, creep slowly towards 45 (end of blue zone) and then the high pressure switch would kick in. Around this time, it felt as if the system no longer wanted to accept more refrigerant. The A/C output is definately cold, whereas before it just seemed cool.

Form your experience, does this seem correct? Rather, does it seem right that the system will now keep its low to high pressure difference all within the blue area?

Andreas

eric-the-red

I didn't get any of the spikes in the pressure, mine started off low but steady, and went up as I added the refrigerant. I stopped when it almost got to the yellow. The pressure stayed steady after that. Maybe I just didn't have my system on long enough for the compressor to start cycling, which I assume causes the pressure fluctuations. As long as it's cold and not overcharged it should be OK.

Ironmike4x4

The best way to test it is to put a thermometer in between the middle vent and put the AC on high and recirculate. Anywhere below 55 is the acceptable range. If you had a true manifold gauge then you could actually cheat and make the AC cold enough to blow chunks of ice in the vent. This is not good for the evaporator, but if you know enough about AC and have a good gauge you can put 1/3 less refrigerant in and make it super cold. I've done this on my own 4Runner, but I don't suggest this for the average person unless you have the proper machines and know-how.

Just a side note for you guys... I may have to go back to some of my old AC posts and correct myself, but if a shop says you cannot "top off" refrigerant legally nor they cannot let you leave the shop with a refill of refrigerant unless the AC system is repaired, tell them about the Customer's rights to refrigerations in EPA's guidelines then see how much they freak out. Unless a there is a State or County regulation barring it, then the shop has given you illegal information and may can face penalties by law.

Mason Dixon

lol, do u mind rewriting this last paragraph?

"Just a side note for you guys... I may have to go back to some of my old AC posts and correct myself, but if a shop says you cannot "top off" refrigerant legally nor they cannot let you leave the shop with a refill of refrigerant unless the AC system is repaired, tell them about the Customer's rights to refrigerations in EPA's guidelines then see how much they freak out. Unless a there is a State or County regulation barring it, then the shop has given you illegal information and may can face penalties by law."

Ironmike4x4

LOL I realize now it doesn't make sense until I'm wide awake and actually trying to understand my own wordings. Basicallly a mechanic shop cannot say it's illegal to "top off" refrigerant if it's leaking anywhere in the A/C system unless your local or state law prohibits it. A shop cannot also tell you that you cannot drive your vehicle with leaking refrigerant because of EPA laws. Does it make sense now? The first sentence was me referring to any old posts where I have just now contradicted myself as I've retaken my A/C license or MVAC.

dsmbuddy

Theres no laws prohibiting that in MD that I'm aware of. hell if we cant find a leak when a customer first comes in, I'll put dye and a fresh charge of R-134 and tell them to comeback in a week to recheck for a leak. i dont think you have a major leak. no a/c system is 100% sealed. up to a 1/4 lb of refrigerant loss per year can be considered normal on a vehicle that is 5 years old. if your careful and it sounds like you were, you shouldnt have any problems, but i always steer people away from using the cans as I've fixed many a/c systems from people over-charging them. it seems the evaporator tends to blow out first, leaving you with one of the most expensive parts of the system to replace. also as a side note, i dont trust the gauges on the cans. or anything thats not a decent manifold gauge set, but that just may be me

ironmike - sounds like a good sales pitch to get a repair unless there are actually local laws prohibiting that