Buying 3rd gen 4runner - looking for advice
#1
Buying 3rd gen 4runner - looking for advice
Hello Yotatech,
Looking for some input on buying a 3rd gen 4runner. (First off - if this isn't the correct place to post this kind of question, apologies.) Got a few questions I can't find via searching (some of them are more opinion, anyways).
I've owned 3 yotas, 85 pickup, 86 & 87 4runner. Currently I find myself needing something more DD-able, for road tripping, camping, the usual, so I think a 3rd gen is in my future. Budget's 5-8k, depending on niceness.
Questions:
Auto vs Manual - I would for sure prefer a stick, but is there anything 'wrong' with the auto? I.e. - significantly worse mpg, bad highway gearing, etc? There's a crapton more autos out there, and that would widen my search.
4wd/transfer case stuff:
I've read up on this, but am still a little confused - was there an AWD version later in the run? Wikipedia says "The multimatic transmission became available as an option for 4WD 4Runners in 1999, giving the option of AWD operation." WTH does that mean? Just need to know if there's anything to avoid there.
Maintenance, mileage:
Familiar with the usual routine here, but is there anything specific I should look for? I know these will last for 200-300k if they're cared for, but is there a point at which I should disregard a high mileage vehicle?
Is any year in particular better?
Can I sleep in the back?
6', skinny. Slept in my 86/87 ok, but the rear seats wouldn't fold quite flat, which was annoying.
Thanks in advance for any input, advice, thoughts.
Looking for some input on buying a 3rd gen 4runner. (First off - if this isn't the correct place to post this kind of question, apologies.) Got a few questions I can't find via searching (some of them are more opinion, anyways).
I've owned 3 yotas, 85 pickup, 86 & 87 4runner. Currently I find myself needing something more DD-able, for road tripping, camping, the usual, so I think a 3rd gen is in my future. Budget's 5-8k, depending on niceness.
Questions:
Auto vs Manual - I would for sure prefer a stick, but is there anything 'wrong' with the auto? I.e. - significantly worse mpg, bad highway gearing, etc? There's a crapton more autos out there, and that would widen my search.
4wd/transfer case stuff:
I've read up on this, but am still a little confused - was there an AWD version later in the run? Wikipedia says "The multimatic transmission became available as an option for 4WD 4Runners in 1999, giving the option of AWD operation." WTH does that mean? Just need to know if there's anything to avoid there.
Maintenance, mileage:
Familiar with the usual routine here, but is there anything specific I should look for? I know these will last for 200-300k if they're cared for, but is there a point at which I should disregard a high mileage vehicle?
Is any year in particular better?
Can I sleep in the back?
6', skinny. Slept in my 86/87 ok, but the rear seats wouldn't fold quite flat, which was annoying.
Thanks in advance for any input, advice, thoughts.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Brother recently bought a '98 3.4 auto limited, leather, sunroof- loaded loaded with 256k miles for $5000. It's in great shape and runs awesome. Don't judge by mileage in all cases. Auto > Manual IMO. They're really tough and low maintenance. I am running 350+hp thru one with only valvebody mods. Tough. Plus there's about a million more autos than manuals. Offroad autos are the way to go, also IMO. That torque mulitplication and no stalling... I know a few folks will disagree with valid points. Gas mileage reduction? Negligible/nonexistant. Gas mileage is most largely affected by your driving style.
His '98 Limited auto has AWD function. The xfer case lever has a button on the side that activated the AWD mode. Pull the lever back for 50/50 split diff, and of course 4low, and then his has elec diff lock too.
I'm 6'5" and have slept in my 2nd gen with seat folded down. You'll be fine.
His '98 Limited auto has AWD function. The xfer case lever has a button on the side that activated the AWD mode. Pull the lever back for 50/50 split diff, and of course 4low, and then his has elec diff lock too.
I'm 6'5" and have slept in my 2nd gen with seat folded down. You'll be fine.
Last edited by vasinvictor; 01-07-2015 at 11:25 AM.
#3
Registered User
#4
Brother recently bought a '98 3.4 auto limited, leather, sunroof- loaded loaded with 256k miles for $5000. It's in great shape and runs awesome. Don't judge by mileage in all cases. Auto > Manual IMO. They're really tough and low maintenance. I am running 350+hp thru one with only valvebody mods. Tough. Plus there's about a million more autos than manuals. Offroad autos are the way to go, also IMO. That torque mulitplication and no stalling... I know a few folks will disagree with valid points. Gas mileage reduction? Negligible/nonexistant. Gas mileage is most largely affected by your driving style.
His '98 Limited auto has AWD function. The xfer case lever has a button on the side that activated the AWD mode. Pull the lever back for 50/50 split diff, and of course 4low, and then his has elec diff lock too.
I'm 6'5" and have slept in my 2nd gen with seat folded down. You'll be fine.
His '98 Limited auto has AWD function. The xfer case lever has a button on the side that activated the AWD mode. Pull the lever back for 50/50 split diff, and of course 4low, and then his has elec diff lock too.
I'm 6'5" and have slept in my 2nd gen with seat folded down. You'll be fine.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
The one thing to think about is some people sell the vehicle when it comes time for a timing belt change .
Being they are unable to do this themselves and don`t want or can`t afford the expense .
It is also very easy to clear the codes so the mil is not lit during your short test drive.
Only to come on after the tests run again I can really relate to this one!!! On the drive home.
I most often need to spend at least $1000.00 or more in parts just catching up on neglected things
Being they are unable to do this themselves and don`t want or can`t afford the expense .
It is also very easy to clear the codes so the mil is not lit during your short test drive.
Only to come on after the tests run again I can really relate to this one!!! On the drive home.
I most often need to spend at least $1000.00 or more in parts just catching up on neglected things
#6
carefully inspect the frame for rust.
It sounds like 4Runners may be subject to a frame recall/replacement like the tacomas etc
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...rame-rust.html
It sounds like 4Runners may be subject to a frame recall/replacement like the tacomas etc
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...rame-rust.html
#7
Contributing Member
iTrader: (1)
IMO, the best years were the 1999-2000 MY, because it came with the mid-cycle refresh goodies, taller coils springs and the e-locker was still a option. 2001-2002 MY had shorter springs and no e-locker. although you can easily have the coils springs replaced and have an e-locker diff swap. 2001-2002 MY have traction control and have the newer attachment devices for the child seats.
If you want the AWD option, get a Limited as it has the multi-mode transfer case (not multimatic transmission).
If you want the AWD option, get a Limited as it has the multi-mode transfer case (not multimatic transmission).
Last edited by KZN185W; 01-08-2015 at 06:18 AM.
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#8
Registered User
240k going strong. No issues with the tranny (automatic).
Transfer case- if not in 4x4 then using the rear wheels only (duh). In 4x4 you have high and low. High is kind of like awd. Low is for very slow speed in tough stuff (sand, mud, ect).
Great truck. Good luck.
Transfer case- if not in 4x4 then using the rear wheels only (duh). In 4x4 you have high and low. High is kind of like awd. Low is for very slow speed in tough stuff (sand, mud, ect).
Great truck. Good luck.
#10
Well this went pretty quick - found this guy 250 miles away, and picked it up yesterday:
180k, automatic, every option ever (including e-locker!), in pretty good shape (minus that the driver seat is utterly destroyed, & the window controls crapped out a few times). Not too worried about fixing those.
Now what I am a little nervous about is, of course I didn't notice on the test drive, but when I got it up to 70 mph on the way home, it's spinning a hair over 3,600 rpm. This seems awfully high to me (75-77mph is almost 4k). I assume it has 4.30 rear gears (since it has the factory e-locker), but is that normal? Could the tach be reading incorrectly, or maybe I'm missing 4th? 60 mph is 3,000 rpm almost exactly.
Oddly, I tested fuel economy, and got 22 mpg after running 70-75 the whole way home (flat, highway), which is better than I anticipated. Thoughts?
180k, automatic, every option ever (including e-locker!), in pretty good shape (minus that the driver seat is utterly destroyed, & the window controls crapped out a few times). Not too worried about fixing those.
Now what I am a little nervous about is, of course I didn't notice on the test drive, but when I got it up to 70 mph on the way home, it's spinning a hair over 3,600 rpm. This seems awfully high to me (75-77mph is almost 4k). I assume it has 4.30 rear gears (since it has the factory e-locker), but is that normal? Could the tach be reading incorrectly, or maybe I'm missing 4th? 60 mph is 3,000 rpm almost exactly.
Oddly, I tested fuel economy, and got 22 mpg after running 70-75 the whole way home (flat, highway), which is better than I anticipated. Thoughts?
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Well this went pretty quick - found this guy 250 miles away, and picked it up yesterday:
180k, automatic, every option ever (including e-locker!), in pretty good shape (minus that the driver seat is utterly destroyed, & the window controls crapped out a few times). Not too worried about fixing those.
Now what I am a little nervous about is, of course I didn't notice on the test drive, but when I got it up to 70 mph on the way home, it's spinning a hair over 3,600 rpm. This seems awfully high to me (75-77mph is almost 4k). I assume it has 4.30 rear gears (since it has the factory e-locker), but is that normal? Could the tach be reading incorrectly, or maybe I'm missing 4th? 60 mph is 3,000 rpm almost exactly.
Oddly, I tested fuel economy, and got 22 mpg after running 70-75 the whole way home (flat, highway), which is better than I anticipated. Thoughts?
180k, automatic, every option ever (including e-locker!), in pretty good shape (minus that the driver seat is utterly destroyed, & the window controls crapped out a few times). Not too worried about fixing those.
Now what I am a little nervous about is, of course I didn't notice on the test drive, but when I got it up to 70 mph on the way home, it's spinning a hair over 3,600 rpm. This seems awfully high to me (75-77mph is almost 4k). I assume it has 4.30 rear gears (since it has the factory e-locker), but is that normal? Could the tach be reading incorrectly, or maybe I'm missing 4th? 60 mph is 3,000 rpm almost exactly.
Oddly, I tested fuel economy, and got 22 mpg after running 70-75 the whole way home (flat, highway), which is better than I anticipated. Thoughts?
What size are those tires? 265/70s came factory.
What did you pay for it?
#12
That sounds about normal RPMs if you are not in overdrive. There is an overdrive off button on your shifter. Are you sure that was not pushed? There should be an orange O/D light on your cluster if overdrive is turned off.
What size are those tires? 265/70s came factory.
What did you pay for it?
What size are those tires? 265/70s came factory.
What did you pay for it?
Not sure what tire size is, looks normal to me (can check tonight).
Paid 7k.
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Yikes that's too high unless it's been regeared, which I doubt by it's stock appearance. What happens when you pull it down in "2"? Can you feel it shift all the gears? Are you sure when you turn O/D off that it's not just the converter unlocking? When going 55 down the road, tap the brake lightly and see if RPM rises by a few hundred to verify your converter is locking up.
Check engine light? Checked for any stored codes?
Your tires look stock sized to me. Couldn't tell on mobile earlier, but they are not significantly smaller so it wouldn't affect RPMs drastically.
Check engine light? Checked for any stored codes?
Your tires look stock sized to me. Couldn't tell on mobile earlier, but they are not significantly smaller so it wouldn't affect RPMs drastically.
#14
Well crap. Thanks for confirming, it seemed way high to me.
This sounds a lot like what I might have - the RPM description sounds pretty close.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...-4th-auto.html
I did have trouble getting the 4wd light to go off after I shifted it out of 4wd.
To the shop she goes : (
This sounds a lot like what I might have - the RPM description sounds pretty close.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...-4th-auto.html
I did have trouble getting the 4wd light to go off after I shifted it out of 4wd.
To the shop she goes : (
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