WT

Dang it all
Sorry just had to rant looked under the runner today looks like my CV boot finally gave out.. grease every where under there ...
How much to get a CV boot replaced ?? its the inner one but sure the outer is not far behind since the lift just seems to be to much of a angle for these things. Any recomedations of replacement other than OME ? Any one want to come to Virgina and fix it for me ? .
Oh well off to think about what I am going to do next...
Second thought is it easier to just replace the whole axle ?? any writeups out there ?? would the axle come complete with CV boots and everything ??

Oh this is for my 96' Runner

WT

Okay after some searching and more reading it seems the best and most cost effective way to fix this is just replace the axle shaft and get 2 new CV boots and joints, Okay the question is how simple is this install can I do this in the driveway or should I get the axle and pay someone to do the install ??
Checked around and found that Advance Auto has them for about $90.00 plus core charge.
One other question if I plan on replacing the axle can I still drive around till this thing starts to clunk on me ?? or am I better off replacing as soon as possible.

TDiddy

There are people here that have replaced an axle. I don't know that they have done any write-ups, but hopefully they will chime in. I've heard its pretty easy, about a 30 min. job. Also check www.carquest.com for prices on an axle. I believe they sell complete axles, so you wouldn't have to buy boots and joints separately.

Mossback74

Well I'm doing the same thing to. I'll be getting an rebuild as a kit. I'm not sure if I'll be doing it myself of having the shop take care of it. I like to at least try it with the help from a friend that's done these before, but the speed of the shop work is very tempting.
I've got a local carquest that I go to. They did good with a rebuild caliper (had a stuck piston).

SloPoke

I just recently did a tech write up on the replacement of the cv boots. It's really easy. No need to replace the entire shaft unless you just wanna spend the $$.

Here's my tech write up if it helps..(it's on a Tacoma specific site but it'll work for you)

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/inde..._v2&id=113&c=3

keisur

I have most of the pictures that go with each of the steps in this write-up. I took them while I was installing the front diff with ARB lockers and also replacing the cv boots. I think I have pics stepping from the hub dust cover removal to the reinserting of the assembly back into the diff.

let me know if you want them and I'll either post them or put them on a page on my website. I meant to do a write-up but since the mecatech boots would ONLY work on the outer, I got PO'd and installed the mecatech on the outers and new toyota oem inners and decided to scrap the write-up. this was on my '98 4Runner.

bamachem

I have an interesting situation...

I took my 99 4wd limited in to have the passenger side axel rebuilt. Mistake No. 1: I took it to my local NTB because they were convenient and had a decently low price.

The short version of the story is that they took the front differential apart at the flange to take the CV shaft out. Once apart, they used a pry bar and popped the shaft out like I told them to in the first place.

They sent it off and got it back and reinstalled it.

I tried to use the AWD (three open differentials- center unlocked)this past weekend, but when I hit the switch, it was like the truck was shifted into neutral.

That tells me that ONE of the two front axels is not connected properly, with my bet being on the passenger side that they took apart.

I took it in this morning, and THEY said to take it to the dealer to have it fixed and to have the dealer bill them for ANY charges.

My question is: What could be wrong with the install or the shaft to cause a DISCONNECT of the front axel? Also, what should I request the dealer to look at beside the CV shaft connection and the front differential fluid level?

It made a HORRIBLE SLAMMING NOISE when I turned off the switch as the rear got full pwer back (foot off the gas, but still moving at about 35 mph). What else should be inspected as long as it's on NTB's dime?

WT

Yeah picures are worth a thousand words trying to decide if this is something I want to try or just take it to someone. Figured I should be good for a month or 2 with the rip in the boot since I plan on just replacing the axle all together for a few resons get 2 new CV joints and boots with out the mess. I know some say why spend the extra money but I think if your going to tear the axle out just to put one boot on and then wait a few weeks with my luck the outer one rips next you have to do it all over again. Money well spent for preventive maintanence. $90 buck for a rem. Axle is not to bad since Toyota wants about $20.00 per CV boot kit your at $40 and you still have the same old CV joints in there, mine as well go and replace them in one swap out but maybe thats just me.

rimpainter.com

I just did the CV boot on our Accord (outer) and here are some things I needed (and I have a lot of tools)

36mm socket
Breaker bar (I used my 3 ton jack handle)
CV boot clamp pliers

I knocked the lower ball joint out, took out the bolt to the lower part of the front strut, and popped the entire half shaft out.

It is a greasy mess. Hardest part is clean-up and getting the ball joint nut back on. Saved me $120.

If everything I mentioned sounds easy, then you can do it.

keisur

My kits came with both inner and outer boots, I couldn't just buy one boot. Since you would have to pull the tripod off to replace the inner boot anyway you might as well cut the old outer off and replace it too, not just do the inner like you say above. Where did you see the boot kit from toyota for 20 each? I paid ~30 after internet discount at J Marks. I sure would like to know so I could save another 20 bucks when I get my manual hub conv kit and build the new assemblies.

runnerboy97

Where in Virginia are you. I recently did this, and might be able to help you out. its really not that hard of a job

WT

Sent you a PM
And for any others that want to sign up to help lol Im in the Richmond area

WT

Any chance you got around to posting them pics
Think the best thing to do is replace the whole axle just wanted to see if I shousd attempt this or pay a shop/dealer.

Thanks

rimpainter.com

If you can replace the entire axle, you can do a boot. Why not save the dough and just replace the boot?

If you dont hear clicking, the axles are fine.

RTdawgs

ive never replaced a boot or axle, but if my boots ever tore i would replace the entire axle and use the axle with the torn boot as the core.

this way, its not a greasy mess to install and if i ever break another CV, i just return the busted CV axle as a core and get a new axle for free.

(if i remember correctly)

i think the book kit from the dealer is $70-$90.

i think you can get an entire axle for $90-100 after core. and this includes lifetime replacement.

rimpainter.com

Try TOR. That is absurd for just a boot.

A boot kit for our Accord was $20 at the dealer.

Stump1883

Someone out there has to have some pictures of the install. I too have to tackle this project soon. I have had the "clicking" sound going for a long while, but never the time to do anything about it. I got the axel and CVs sitting in the garage right now. I just need the time, and most of all the confidence to do it. Pictures would really help me since I'm a very visual learner.

slowyota

Not sure if this is helpful or not.
But, I have a CV boot replacement write-up for 2nd gen's. No pictures, but, still really, really easy to understand.

I just replaced the CV boots with new Toyota boots for $32.00 (that includes inner and outer boots, 2 tubes of grease and 4 CV boot clamps).

Wasn't anything wrong with the joints, so I saved the money and just bought the boots.

Is the 2nd gen's front ends that same as the 3rd's?

By the way it's in word format, send me a PM if you'd like a copy.

Good luck, it's really easy to do it yourself, and just think, you get to learn something new! And there's nothing like the satisfaction of doing the job yourself!

bomberyota

It's easy to replace just the axel. The only problem arises is getting the axels out I had to use an impact set on 60psi the six top bolts came right out. Taking the lower part out is just as easy.

WT

Yeah this is my thoughts on it too less mess is good. Just hoping for some pics I think I can handles it but just like to see how it all comes apart. I did do my lift on my own and that was rather simple.