COAKDawg

Long time lurker, first time poster. Thanks to everybody for making this forum the go-to place for knowledge about these rigs. I appreciate it.

Problem: stock springs in the rear with bilstein 245X's and blown Airlift 1000's on a mostly stock 99 4RNR SR5 4WD. Rig sags when slightly loaded, and I get the harsh jaring bumpstop ride on road trips.

Question: On a tight budget, I'm considering an upgrade to OME 906's to help handle the loads, and put me back to around stock height. In the process, I want to ditch those airbags. So, should I also replace any bumpstops while I'm at it? The cone bumpstops inside the coils have been cut to make room for the airbags - making them useless as bumpstops, but effective as a spacer. The frame mounted ones are stock, and really HARD! Sonoransteel.com has those Daystar competition style bumpstop, those look appealing, but, will I even need to worry about bumpstops with the OME 906's?

Thanks in Advance!

mjwalfredo

I just swapped out my stock springs and blown airbags for 906's. I just put the cut cones back in. The 906's are stiffer than I thought they would be and that cone isn't really a bumpstop anyway, it's more of a cushion (at least that's my understanding). Anyway, with the 906's, I don't think i'll be hitting the bumpstops any time soon. Airbags suck by the way. They don't seem to last more than a couple of years before they tear a hole...

COAKDawg

Thanks Marcus. . . .

My airbags lasted around 5 years. I was contributing the harsh cold to their demise, but maybe they just aren't built to last. Regardless, I think the 906's will be a more permanent solution.

Where did you pick up the 906's at? How much?

mjwalfredo

All the mudding probably contributed to the wear on my airbags. I think the dirt would get trapped between the coil and bag which probably accelerated the wear.

I got my 906's as part of an OME kit from toyteclifts.com. I think they sell the springs for like $170 plus shipping for the rear.

"New" 96 bumpstops might be a good idea ( I can't see the pick because the hosting site is blocked at work ). I feel safe with my cut bumpstops for now though.

COAKDawg

Singtoe: Thanks for the idea. . . . Slim pickins up here in the Pole. . . . One junkyard really. They rarely have 4RNRs. . .. but I haven't checked in a bit, maybe things have changed. I do like the looks of that oem 96 bump - Looks way softer, and taller.

Marcus: Yeah I looked at another one of your posts to see you got a complete kit from Toyteclifts. I'd certainly pay $170 for the springs. . . but their shipping costs are $100 to Alaska!!! Yikes! I've got some relatives in that area though, so I might be able to get them hand delivered when somebody comes up to visit. Patience I suppose.

mjwalfredo

Haha!

alteredvision

I would not remove the bump stops, especially in the conditions in Alaska.

Got this from a search:
1) stop the shock or other suspension components banging metal to metal at the end of the compression travel - this would damage components and cause rapid and dramatic unsettling of the handling - loss of grip...
2) the bumpstops act as a progressive spring. This benefits handling by offering a soft ride (on the springs alone), then when cornering, the outside suspension compresses onto the bumpstop and the whole thing acts like the car has much stiffer springs.

Vote for Sonoran Steel.

CYi5

I definitely wouldn't spend the crazy $160 or whatever SS wants.

Parts list:
Daystar KU09014BK ~$35
2"x5"x3/16" Box ~Free (thanks to left over scrap)
Misc. Hardware ~$3.00 (M8x1.25 = bolts that thread into stock bumpstop nut)








Pics in those post, just fyi.

COAKDawg

CYi5: With the 890's you basically built the bracket for the daystars to move them closer to the axle. With just the 906's, I probably wouldn't even need a bracket, just bolt them up directly to the original frame mount?

More epic pics that Marcus is missing -

CYi5

Well, the bumps shown come with a stud already coming out of them, and pretty sure that it isn't the same size as the 4runner's mount. If you can knock off the tack welded nut on the 4runner frame then you could probably make them fit that way without the box extension yes.

Lance

I was in the same situation with my 98Runner. I installed 906 and left the factory bump stops. I removed the center cones since they were cut. The 906 are stiffer and I Rarely bottom out.

Run the new springs and see if its even an issue.

mjwalfredo

Why did you remove the cut center cone? I thought the cone acts as an isolator and would be better to have it between two metal components... My passenger side 906 also seemed to not be under any weight at full droop so I left the isolator to keep it from wiggling if the axle ever travels that far down. I don't have a rear sway bar at the moment so maybe it wouldn't travel quite that far with it on.

Lance

Good point, I was just thinking that the cone helps during full compression-soften the bump- and since I cut the very top off, I thought it would be useless. I was expecting that I wouldn't over load the 906s, which I haven't. Mostly I was worried about too much rake since I stayed with 99' front springs so I didn't want any additional spacer in there to raise the rear end. I still ended up with too much rake and now I'm debating about spacers for the front or installing 880.

COAKDawg

To finish up with my Q: I installed the 906's with some used uncut coil cones that I picked up from Jon Clark. - Awesome Seller BTW (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f189...rt-out-233538/)

It was a little more difficult to get the old 'Tall' 99 coils out than I thought it would be. The passenger side was fairly easy, but the drivers side - not so much. I disconnected the shock, panhard bar, and anti-sway bar in order to get the axle to drop low enough to get the original coil out. Not really difficult, just a little more than I thought would be needed to get that coil out.

Initial assesment: Drives great! I had built myself up for a 'Stiff' ride, but I was surprised that it wasn't nearly as stiff as I was expecting. It certainly sits a little higher in the back, but not too much - about what I was hoping for. I didn't take any pics - the camera was on its way to town w/ my wife, and I forgot to measure too. I'm really much more interested in the results when we load it up for our summer trips, so I'm okay without this documentation. Also, the unexpected surprise of the rear hatch raising up that little bit more keeps me from bonking my head (at least in the summer).

So, I've got these mostly used tall rear coils w/ some cut center coil cones - do you have any suggestions on what I should do with them? Can they be used for the 'Zuk' mod?