Notices
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Body work started

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-13-2004, 06:52 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
grams72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Moorhead MN
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Body work started

Well I started my shade tree bodywork last night, Its not "old School" or tech school so make fun if you would like.

Background
What I have is Rusted out quarters on my Runner, They guy I bought the truck from had it from new and when the rusting got out of control he used black duct tape to hide/slow down the process.

Since I dont have a welder I'm going to attempt this on a low budget, cheap and easy fix. I know that it wont last forever but as long as I can get rid of the black duct tape and hide the rust, the mission will be accomplished.

Supplies = Expandable foam (house insulation), Fiberglass Mat with resin, and bondo.

I used the Foam to fill the void where there is missing metal around the wheel well, This will keep the existing metal from pushing in, thus keeping the fiberglass from cracking.
Trim the foam flush with the wheel well,
Use some bondo to smooth out the void.
Then cut a repair panel out of the fiberglass, apply the resin and slap the fiberglass to the wheel well.
After it cures I will them smooth and feather out the bondo.

Primer and move on.

Like I said its very shade tree but it should keep things in place for a few more year.

Maybe I should revoke this note, just in case I end up selling it....
Old 08-13-2004, 07:50 AM
  #2  
Registered User
 
mike_d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Mountains outside of Boulder
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yeah, that's how i fixed the holes in my rear quaters. that an 15 cans of 97 cent walmart paint, and i had body work and and a new paint job for under a $100.

one thing, instead of the fiberglass mat, i use aluminum screen. the foam will break down pretty quick, so what i do, is just use the foam to hold the alumimum screen in place until i get the bondo on. it's held for a couple of years now. i tried the just foam and fiberglass mat trick on a friends truck and it only lasted a couple of months. so if your bondo falls out, it'll be an easy fix.
Old 08-13-2004, 08:41 AM
  #3  
Registered User
 
4Hummer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Old 08-13-2004, 10:19 AM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
grams72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Moorhead MN
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just got back from lunch,
I had to sling a few coats of mud over the foam, Tonight I will try to put the fiberglass mat and then put a couple more coats of mud over that.

The gap isnt that large its just large.

I will post some pics tonight.

Back when I was 16 I had a buddy that did bodywork in his garage, The smell of the bondo brought back a lot of fun memories, Think I'll give him a call.
Old 08-13-2004, 07:54 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
ksig4runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This process sounds... interesting at best. my dad is a body man and has been doin it for thirty five years. over the years ive helped him do some jobs and he taught me a lot.

Now what you want to do is forget all the foam and fiberglass and junk. grind the panel down to the metal until you can see no rust at all. then just primer the panel so there is no bare metal showing. this is the best easy fix for the time being and will also be a lot easier if you ever go to really repair the panel.

Just my two cents but would love to see the jerry rigged panel right now.
Old 08-13-2004, 08:20 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
grams72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Moorhead MN
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here are a few pics,

If I only had a welder I would do it the right way, but I dont and this is far from a show truck.







Old 08-13-2004, 09:36 PM
  #7  
Registered User
 
4Hummer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Well err. that should hold out for a few months. maybe 6 months...

I'd suggest you oil spay that thing asap or you will have bubbles popping up even sooner.
Old 08-13-2004, 10:30 PM
  #8  
Contributing Member
 
914runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tigard, Oregon
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Dude that sucks! Do you have any pics of how you removed the rear lower quarters?
Thanks
Old 08-13-2004, 10:37 PM
  #9  
Contributing Member
 
bike4miles's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Looks like it is coming allong nicely. What are you going to do about painting?
Old 08-14-2004, 01:48 PM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
grams72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Moorhead MN
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Rear quarters were removed with a 4.5" grinder and an air saw( like a saws all but way smaller)

As for the paint:
Since the black above where the stripe was is in good shape I will not paint above that.
The lower portion will be a silver with the black flaming into the silver. That can and probobly will change.

The rust does suck but thats how I bought it. The truck only has 112,000 miles and the inside is PERFECT, Cheap bodywork and paint and I'll be good for another few years.
I'm not too worried about it, Less to worry about if someone ding ya...

Plus I'm in Minnesota so "Rust Happens"
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JF9243176
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
18
10-08-2017 04:21 AM
subaruwrx88011
Vehicles - Parting Out
4
10-09-2015 12:39 PM
JF9243176
Newbie Tech Section
0
06-24-2015 04:53 AM
gog1968
Newbie Tech Section
2
06-22-2015 05:55 AM



Quick Reply: Body work started



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:34 AM.