Toyo4x4

I was finally able to have a buddy come over and lend a hand when needed. I have to say the shocks feel great given the little bit of driving done already. Much better cornering w/ no pitch to the side, rebound stops after one oscillation, much better road feel though I do noticed small bumps more...I'm guessing because they are stiffer and I'm not used to good shocks.
Thanks to everyone who helped out with my questions and so far...I'd recommend them.

I did notice that I got about an 1/8" "lift" all around (I measured before install). Will they settle or should I get an alignment? I'll be changing the steering stabilizer next week so if i need one I would do it after that project.

Thanks.

2001Millrunner

i just orderes Bilsteins, was the install hard? i figures with spring compressor it's just bolt off and on.

Toyo4x4

It took me and a little extra help from a buddy about 2.5 hours. This was my first big maintenance job for me and my buddy only gets dirty when washing his truck .

I used a BIG pair of adjustable pliers...the ones that have about 8 differents notches, to hold the front shock while undoing the top bolt. The grab area provided by the stock shock started to strip w/ an adjustable wrench and clamping pliers (weak design, IMO).

Get a 2' piece of 1" pipe to use as a breaker bar---VERY USEFUL to get bolts undone. Spray nuts & bolts w/ PB Blaster, too, a few times before you start.

A little leverage is needed to compress the front shock bottom in and up to the mounting holes. My friend stuck a screwdriver through the bracket and into the holes and levered it up so I could push the bolt through from other side. The order of the parts from shock up: Dull washer (cupping up), bushing, silver washer (cupping down), truck's bracket, bushing, dull washer (cupping down), nut.
Tighten bottom bolt very tight (comparing the effort it took to come off). Tighten top nut until the washers and bushing look like an OREO. NOT squishing out beyond the washers, though.

Back new shocks were hard to compress to get up to the bolt stud. We used a 2x4 and the jack as a lever to compress the shock enough to slip onto the stud. Again, tighten comparing the effort it took to undo the bolts.

This is for a pickup and I notice you have a 4Runner so it will be a bit different as I have leafs in the back and no coil springs.
I hope you can use some of this, though. Good luck!

2001Millrunner

thanks for the tips, i have an idea of what i'm getting myself into now.

Faded

My Bils showed up yesterday as well. I opted to go with the Landcruiser rears for my 4-Runner as they are a bit longer extended length (3"). You shouldn't need a spring compressor at all, just a lot of muscle. I took my stockers out last weekend so the install shouldn't be that bad, but I've installed many shocks. If you'll notice the Bils have a hex head in the top of the shock shaft so you can put an allen wrench in there when tightening the nut. Use PB Blaster on the studs a day or so in advance and that will definately ease removal of the old shocks. I'm definately looking forward to this mod.

BTW, what did ya'll pay for your Bils? Central gave them to me for $55/ea + $16 shipping/hanlding.

Toyo4x4

Faded,
That's a good deal you've got there! I paid $250 including shipping from shox.com. I searched quite a bit, too. Oh well, $250 shipped still is a good price.

Faded

Yes, especailly considering what you get!

Churnd

Bils are simply awesome. I will never own another shock in my lifetime.

That would have been a lot easier if you had done it my way... lift the rear using a tractor with a hydraulic bucket lift. But then again, I understand that not everyone has a tractor with a hydraulic bucket lift.

2001Millrunner

hm...i paid 280..........

goldtaco9

Still happy with these?

Mike

tenfourtyeight

Hey, toyo, if you still read here, you have the part numbers?

Or does anybody know what part numbers would work for my truck? -91 4x4 extracab-

X-AWDriver

Mine should be on in the next week.