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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: staten island n.y.
Posts: 79
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beware , 210 flex-a-lite owners
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1999 ltd ! friends don't let friends drive yugos! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Sponsoring Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Seattleish, WA
Posts: 9,078
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Hi;
I'm a bit confused here... You talk of a 30 amp holder, a 20 amp draw, and blowing a 10 amp fuse. My 210's have been fine, and I can't really go outside right now to check, but I think the fuse in the holder is a 30 amp fuse. If you replace it with a 10 amp fuse, then you should expect it to blow. Past that, my power lead to the fan gets warm as well when the fans are running, and I agree that Flex-a-Lite should have provided a larger gauge wire for the leads. But I haven't blown a fuse or had any issues like the fuse holder melting down. I know you're back to the stock fan now, but where did you have the wiring routed? Was it possibly really close to a major heat source? The heat I get on my power lead is no where near enough to cause the fuse holder to meltdown. Sorry for your troubles. Mark
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~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: portland oregon
Posts: 704
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flex-a-lite 210
wanna sell the fan to me?
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jake |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: staten island n.y.
Posts: 79
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the fuse holder was located right next the battery not close to any heat , the fuse for the electric fans was a 30amp fuse that came with the kit, what happen was tha fuse for the instrument gauges , water temp,fuel and tach stop working, also ac stop working and alternator stop working because the gauges are part of charging system, if the gauge fuse blows (10amp) the charging system stops working. i had the trigger wire from the flex-a-lite thermostat connected to the ac 12 volts compressor that suppose to kick in the eletric fans any time you turn on the ac, that was not working any more (i checked my connection all good) after i removed the flex-a-lite thermostat, and install my stock fans, i replace 10 amp gauge fuse( which blew 3 times) and is located on the lower left kick panel. after that every thing work fine, no more gauge fuse blowing, and ac is working fine, that why i think the flex-a-lite thermostat went bad, and yes i had a 30amp inline fuse for the electric fans.
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1999 ltd ! friends don't let friends drive yugos! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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I had a similar problem when I installed my FLX 165 on my 2nd Gen this week.
I had the switched lead hooked up to a 12v switched lead (can't remember which) and the AC wire from the fan connected to the black with white wire going to the AC condensor. It worked OK at first, then it seemed to be kicking the fan off and on. Then I drove it for a while. Everything seemed OK. The next day, I start it up with the AC on, no problem. I then start messing with the thermostat control. Go inside the rig to see the temp gauge - no AC. Blew the AC fuse. This is located up above the ECU, so you have to remove the glovebox and part of the dash on the passemger side to get to it. I unhooked the wire from the fan, put in a new fuse - wa-la - I have AC. I don't think the single wire going directly to the AC condensor is the right wire. I think it needs to be triggered on the other side of the AC relay. I need to review my wiring diagram and see where this is and which wire is getting 12v to activate the relay. This may have been your problem. I'll keep you all posted...
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UZswap.com A site dedicated to sharing info for swapping the Toyota/ Lexus UZ (V8) engines into Toyota Trucks and 4Runners. My 4Runner 1993 4Runner, 1UZ (V8) auto dual ultimate crawler, double locked, 35's on beadlocked SR5 alloys, low lift, hacked fenders, tubbed firewall, custom armor TOOLandFAB.com A discussion forum dedicated to tools, fabrication & workshops. See my JD2 Bender Hydro Conversion |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Sponsoring Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Seattleish, WA
Posts: 9,078
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Boss Hog;
Okay, NOW I understand what's happening. Sorry for not getting it the first time around. Basically it sounds like the trigger circuit for the A/C compressor is drawing just enough (at least in surge) to exceed the rating of the A/C fuse. I may not have had any trouble becuase I chose not to hook up that option. Again, I understand that you've went back to the mechanical fans, but it sounds like dropping a 15amp fuse in there would have made things "okay". But you still may have had the heat issue. If you had enough heat to melt that connector, then I wonder if you didn't have an intermittent short that finally just fused itself and trashed the connector. Weird. Bummer man.
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~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: S florida
Posts: 190
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I replaced the fuse holder from flex a lite it was a p.o.s. I have not had a problem with the fans or controls . I mounted the control box high next to the battery since it did not appear to be a sealed water proof unit.I assume that your control box is FUBAR . may be a simple relay setup will work or another control box from flex.
just my .02
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TRD Supercharger,TRD 7th injector,URD AIC ,Headers,2.5 Magnaflow exhaust,Airfilter,air box mod,flexalite 210 fans,optima yellow top,Warbro 190 ,TRD t stat,ramsey 8000 winch and rear locker mod |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I can vouch for the fuse holder issue. My fans have been on for about 7 months and just this past week, the fans stopped working. When I went to check the control box, the 30amp inline fuse, that was provided with the fans, was melted into the holder. I replaced the fuse/holder, but was still not getting power to the fan motors.
I ordered a replacement control box from Summit Racing ($54). Hopefully, nothing else died on the fans
Last edited by trangk; 08-17-2003 at 11:44 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,797
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Sounds like everyone with problems is running the AC switch option. My question is: Why?
I live in Phoenix, where the average temp in July was 108. I have never had the AC switch hooked up to the FLX fans, past or present vehicles. Also, have you guys contacted Flex-a-lite? They were very helpful when I called them, and seemed very willing to help me with the wiring. That said, why not call and see if they will help you out?
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www.rimpainter.com Get your O Gasket Mod Here! My SC'd 4Runner's Profile My YouTube vids |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: staten island n.y.
Posts: 79
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mark, i did pop in a 15 amp gauge fuse instead of the 10amp fuse, it did not blow the fuse this time but the ac compressor would shut of and then wait to long to kick back in,and it would not cool, also fans would not kick in when compressor started.
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1999 ltd ! friends don't let friends drive yugos! |
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| Tags |
| 210, 30, amp, blowing, blown, controller, fan, flex, flexalite, flexlite, fuse, fuses, lite, melted, review, thermostat |
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