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Belt Replacement 98 tacoma 2.7L

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Old 03-28-2010, 06:52 PM   #1
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Belt Replacement 98 tacoma 2.7L

Ever since I bought my tacoma if you ran the defrost (a/c) when it was cold, the belts would squeal. Since I want to avoid a break down, I think the time has come to replace all the belts, they all look to be in pretty bad shape, and squeal pretty regularly. New belts aren't that much but can somebody please give me a run down on how to go about replacing them and how much tension to put on them? All i've ever dealt with before were regular v-belts.
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:36 PM   #2
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Get a new belt, but check your tensioner/idler pulleys also. Then have a tendency to squeal when they are starting to go. Also check to make sure your water pump is not leaking and there is no play in the bearing, if there is, replace.

As far as replacing the belt, just loosen the tensioner pulley and fish the belt out. Then check out all the bearings on the belts, if all good, fish back in the belt and put tension on it. Done!
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:57 PM   #3
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Belts can look good but get old a stretch and start to squeel.
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Old 03-29-2010, 08:31 AM   #4
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my 3rzfe belts stretches over time and squeaks. i had to tighten it but by that time, it's a good indicator to replace it.
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Old 04-03-2010, 02:16 PM   #5
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Ok, so do the belts on a 3rz have a tensioner? Or do you have to manually tension them? If so what do I tension them to?
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:14 AM   #6
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3rz do not have auto tensioner. There are three belts total, all manual tensioning. I do it by feel. there are tools out there to guage it properly but i don't have it.
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:18 PM   #7
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I just replaced the belts on my 99 2.7. If you haven't done it yet, like others have said, each belt has one component with a tension bolt and one pivot bolt. Loosen both of these and you actually have to fish the belt around/through the fan, sometimes one blade at a time depending on the belt size.

As far as tension goes, I also go by feel, but another way to check is how much each belt deflects when it is pushed down at a location centered between the two pulleys. Generally if the pulleys are 7 to 11 inches apart, you want about 1/4" deflection. For 12-16 inches apart, deflection is about 1/2". You will know if you don't have the correct tension because you will hear it when you start the vehicle.
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Old 04-12-2010, 02:17 PM   #8
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okay then, so its not that much different than doing the belts on my 82. Thanks for the help
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Old 04-12-2010, 02:38 PM   #9
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IMO, autozone and similar stores belts stretch at insane rates compared to OEM belts. I would replace them with OEM belts. Look into the company BANDO they are OEM, they just don't say Toyota on them and are cheaper than the stealership.

http://www.bandousa.com/
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:54 AM   #10
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One of my pulleys went out around christmas time and i got all new belts put on when they replaced the pulley. Ive heard that new belts need to be tightened after a little break in period, is that true? i kind of get a weird whirring sound from them sometimes and i feel like they could use a little attention. How do you tighten them, is there an order to do them in?
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:52 AM   #11
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every manual tensioner fundamentally have two bolts, tensioner and a holder. The tensioner bolt is normally parallel to the belt and the "holder" bolt, as i call it, is perpendicular to the belt.
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:24 AM   #12
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Two tools that really help out as far as belts go:
1 mechanics stethoscope
2 belt tension gauge

With the stethoscope, you can pinpoint pulley bearing noises and catch them before they freeze up and break a belt or worse.

As far as tensioning belts, the gauge will extend belt life when compared to the Rule of thumb tensionsing method.

Like I said before, oem belts will stretch less and will not likely need readjustment. If you think a belt has stretched, use the belt tension gauge to check this assumption.

To tighten the tension, use the tensioner bolt that is on the idler pulley bracket, if the belt system has one. Some belt systems don't have an idler pulley ie alternator belts that are tensioned by moving the alternator itself. You will see what I mean when you look at your setup.

I can make a diagram if you need help, but i think you'll get it. Hope this helps you out!

Refer to the fsm to see what new and used belt tensions should be. A used belt is a belt that has been ran for 10 minutes or longer.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:07 AM   #13
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hmm i think autozone lets your borrow a belt tensioner, will have to check on that. So how many different points am i going to have to adjust? one a belt? and should i start with any particular one? Also what is fsm, i dont have a owners manual if thats what your referring to
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:01 PM   #14
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Heres one of my older posts that will help you out. The number of belts depends on if you have A/C and power steering. The 3rzfe and 22re are very similar, so this should help you out. The 3rzfe does not use "v belts" like the 22re, other than that they are pretty much the same.

You start by removing the closest belt to the radiator, and work your way in.

Idler Pulleys are present wherever there is a belt that is tensioned by it. In other words, they are used to adjust belt tension. They are NOT present on some alternator and A/C compressor pulley setups.

We will be referring to the 22RE because, well, its simple!



This is a picture looking down at your power steering belt, however, this setup is pretty much the same as any belt that is tensioned by an idler pulley.

I like room to work, so I take a few extra steps.

1. Remove fan shroud. 4 Bolts hold it to the radiator
2. Remove Fan Clutch. 4 Bolts hold it to the crank pulley
3. Loosen and remove the pulley tension bolt
4. Loosen and remove the bolt that holds the idler pulley on. careful not to drop the bolt that the tension bolt goes into on the backside of the pulley. Pay attention to how the washers are placed.
5. Push the pulley to the right, so you can slip the PS belt off.
6. Pull the pulley out
7. Replace pulley bearing if necessary (tip: NSK bearings are OEM)
8. Installation is the opposite of dis assembly.
9. Make sure you tension the belt as specified in the FSM

A FSM is a factory service manual. Live it. Learn it. Know it. Look at this site and download the correct FSM for your tacoma
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Like I have said way too many times now, DO NOT GO WITH GATES OR SIMILAR BRAND BELTS!!!! THEY STRETCH WAY TOO MUCH AND SUCK!!!! BANDO OR TOYOTA BELTS ONLY, THEY ARE THE SAME (OEM)!!!
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:06 PM   #15
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Just to clarify.. i'm not the starter of the thread. I had new belts put on when one of my pulleys died on christmas eve. I'm just looking to TIGHTEN my belts because i think they've stretched a bit since then. I've heard its a good idea to tighten them after they've been run for a while. I'm gonna check with autozone on a belt tension measurer and then simply tighten, not remove. sorry for the confusion but i'm sure the other guy is pumped he got the whole picture and step instructions. good posting
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:51 PM   #16
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Ha no big deal. You can tighten your belts by using the tensioner bolt (see pic)

It is the same on your 3vze pretty much, just a different belt is used. It is the same set up though, the tensioner bolt is in the same spot.

Definitely download the FSM, it will help you with alot of stuff!
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:44 PM   #17
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Already downloaded thanks for all the info
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:29 PM   #18
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hey guys. i have an awesome 1996 4runner with the 2.7L.

This is my first time changing the V-belts myself. I can't seem to get to the lockbolt on the idler pulley with my socket. I think I have to take off the fan shroud, and in order to do that it looks like I need to drain the radiator to get a hose out of the way. Should it involve all of this work or am I missing something here?

Thanks so much.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billabob1234 View Post
hey guys. i have an awesome 1996 4runner with the 2.7L.

This is my first time changing the V-belts myself. I can't seem to get to the lockbolt on the idler pulley with my socket. I think I have to take off the fan shroud, and in order to do that it looks like I need to drain the radiator to get a hose out of the way. Should it involve all of this work or am I missing something here?

Thanks so much.

Just undo the top radiator hose and catch as much fluid you can. Then dump the hose into said catch container. Pull the shroud. Then pull the fan.
The shroud WILL come out with the fan still in place.

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