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#1 (permalink) | ||||
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Ball joints
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Drew 99 4Runner SR5, auto, 3.4 V6, factory rear locker, 265/75 Yokohama Geolander AT+II Stock for now, but hopefully not for long. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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OEM is probably the best way to go but I'd find it hard to shell out that kind of money. That being said, I wouldn't put on that eBay junk either. A lot can happen if a ball joint or tie rod fails on the highway. Ill be doing this soon, and probably look at something like Moog. I've yet to price them out though.
Jason
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1993 Toyota 4WD Ex-Cab Auto(for now) 31 10.5 15 BF Goodrich A/T's Front and rear diff. breathers Aisin manual hub swap Clarion Pro Audio CD player and 6 disc changer MB Quart speakers 3VZ-E V6 with fresh rebuild: Block bored 20 over Engnbldr master rebuild kit Heads rebuilt with Engnbldr 1mm o/s valves and Weasy2k stage 1 cams Cleaned and balanced injectors LCE ceramic street header kit with LCE pro flow exhaust and high flow cat http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93Toy/MyToy# |
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#3 (permalink) |
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[OP]
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I've seen a lot of guys reporting failures on the MOOG ball joints. Just FYI.
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Drew 99 4Runner SR5, auto, 3.4 V6, factory rear locker, 265/75 Yokohama Geolander AT+II Stock for now, but hopefully not for long. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Bump. Anybody else have an opinion?
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#5 (permalink) |
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Location: Republik of IL
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"If guns kill people, then all of mine are defective." Ted Nugent 1999 4Runner SR5, AT 168,000 miles |
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#6 (permalink) |
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That's the site I used to get the $600 for what I need.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Broomfield, CO
Posts: 116
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What's needed to replace these? Part list?
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1996 4runner SR5 (245,xxx)-New Motor (33,xxx) - K&N Cold Air, NGK wires, TB Spacer, all blue hoses - Drilled Rotors, SS BR lines, B&M 70268 - Shackled F&R, -40 cold start pack - 2x Aux fuse Box, LED Swap - A pillar Gauges, Reverse Gauges - HIDs, Clear corners & Blinkers W/Mod - Pioneer 3300BT W/ Backup cam & HD radio - Kenwoods w/ Alpine 10" type R w/ Big 3 - Black Carpet W/ Black Husky liners - CLD tiles, CCF and MLV sound proof! Looking for someone to paint the truck in Denver! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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OEM for me.
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Hilux Surf KZN185W SSR-G l 3.0L TDI l Dual Batteries l LT285/75R16 l Recaro Seats Drive Your Dreams Last edited by KZN185W; 03-08-2013 at 02:59 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Imperial County CA
Posts: 784
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So I'm curious, I know everyone says go oem, but does anyone have first hand accounts of aftermarket ball joint failure? Ive seen lots of pics and posts on here about ball joint failure but none I've seen specifically mention aftermarket parts.
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 186K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, 265 75 16 Treadwright Guard Dogs Build Thread (ok... maintenance thread) Trailer build thread (be warned, it's pretty stagnant) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Location: OREGON
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moog works fine thats what i replace mine with, no problems and the outer tie rods have a zert so you can grease em
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95 Tacoma 2.7L 3rz, 5 speed, 3" RevTek lift with KYB front struts, Home-Fab snorkel, drop-in K&N, 33x12.50's. Custom sliders and a WARN winch that saves my a$$. Veiw my build-up: http://www.yotatech.com/f200/courtgo...ild-up-229798/ |
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#11 (permalink) |
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My opinion is that that maintenance is throwing good money at the bad.
First, the the cost of the maintenance is rather large in comparison to the residial value of the vehicle, and given the risk probability (I have never seen a Toyota with collapsed suspension, seen plenty of Jeeps though). Second, if you want to improve your personal safety, that money is much better spent on a newer model vehicle. Third, with proper ball joint inspection, there is very little chance the ball will pop-out unexpectedly, and even less chance that the ball will break off due to metallurgical defects (moog's problem probably) after 14 years. Wear is the problem, and wear can be checked while inspecting play in the joint.
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'99 4WD 3.4L SR5 AT Ignorance - is not knowing. Stupidity - is denying the facts. |
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