Axle Leak
10-04-2006, 07:03 PM
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Axle Leak
i have a leak on my one side of my rear diff, i replaced the seal on that side and it still leaks, do i need to also replace the bearing and what work does replacing the bearing call for? do i have to take out the whole rear axle to have the bearing pressed?
Last edited by Knuckles; 10-04-2006 at 07:10 PM.
10-04-2006, 07:18 PM
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There is and inner and outter seal, the inner seal probably busted out (currently have this problem on both sides and is now sitting in driveway till I have nessesary funds to get it fixed...)
The bearing might be okay, it might not, only way you can tell is to take it apart and look...
It requires a press but for what and exactly how, i don;t know, will find out when I take it in though...
The bearing might be okay, it might not, only way you can tell is to take it apart and look...
It requires a press but for what and exactly how, i don;t know, will find out when I take it in though...
10-04-2006, 07:21 PM
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well the outer seal was replaced, so really it could be the bearings or the inner seal causing the leak? the leak comes from where the drum meets the axle on those 4 bolts. iam just really mad and confused about it and my haynes manual doesnt tell me where the bearing is located either.
10-04-2006, 07:26 PM
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Yeah I have a post about this problem some where since I jsut foind out last friday...
There are many other posts that I wish I could find...
One actualyl had a diagram....
But there is one guy that did the job himself and still has leaks...
He thinks it's his bearing now so....
I am getting price quotes now and the cheapest I could find was around $560
The Stealership wanted $1000+ so yeah....
There are many other posts that I wish I could find...
One actualyl had a diagram....
But there is one guy that did the job himself and still has leaks...
He thinks it's his bearing now so....
I am getting price quotes now and the cheapest I could find was around $560
The Stealership wanted $1000+ so yeah....
10-04-2006, 07:30 PM
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well i work at a lube shop and we have a mechanic there who knows what he is doing,but he thought it was just the outer seal, he told me that the bearing could need to be replaced, but i think i found out in my haynes after reading that the bearings are on the axleshaft, for some reason i thought i had to take off the whole rear axle, i know iam slow.
10-04-2006, 07:36 PM
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Dude it's okay...
When the guy at the tire place first told me about it I thought the same exact thing....
I thought.... Maybe I should just go to the junkyard and get an axel witha locker in it (mine does not...) and just put that in if it required taking off the entire axel....
When the guy at the tire place first told me about it I thought the same exact thing....
I thought.... Maybe I should just go to the junkyard and get an axel witha locker in it (mine does not...) and just put that in if it required taking off the entire axel....
10-04-2006, 07:39 PM
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i dont have a locker either 
, i was thinking the same thing tho just replace the entire axle,iam just frustrated with this leak. how are you going ot try and fix the leak on yours?
, i was thinking the same thing tho just replace the entire axle,iam just frustrated with this leak. how are you going ot try and fix the leak on yours?
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10-04-2006, 07:41 PM
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Pay day next friday, takin it to the guy that offers 560 for seals and bearings...
I am gonna sit there and watch him do the first axel and then do the second hopefully...
But as for now it Sits in my driveway and I get to drive around moms lexus (I need brakes too, getting those done friday or saturday hopefully)
I am gonna sit there and watch him do the first axel and then do the second hopefully...
But as for now it Sits in my driveway and I get to drive around moms lexus (I need brakes too, getting those done friday or saturday hopefully)
10-06-2006, 07:03 AM
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Check out the Tech article:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128/replacing-rear-axle-seals-3rd-gen-4runner-76339/
In a nutshell, axle leaks are due to inner seal failure, a common problem with Toyotas. Luckily, this doesn't take a lot of time or money to fix, about 1/2 hour per side and $15 in seals. Napa seals last substantially longer than Toyota seals, in my experience.
The bearing is a sealed unit (i.e. does not leak) and will usually last a minimum of 80-100K miles before needing replacement. The bearing needs replacing only when axial play (axle is sloppy in and out) becomes more than a few thousandths of an inch.
The outer seal is simply a dust seal for the bearing and does nothing to stop leaks.
To add to Bob's writeup:
Removing the brake drum isn't necessary, just remove the tire, disconnect the hydraulic line and parking cable. Undo the 4 nuts on the inner mount and, presto!, the axle pulls right out. Plug the hydraulic line or clamp the rubber flex section above the differential so as not to leak brake fluid everywhere.
Carefully remove the old inner seal so as not to scratch the sealing surfaces. Carefully and squarely install a new seal so as not to cut or scratch the sealing surfaces. Lightly coat the rubber sealing surface with axle fluid or wheel bearing grease. Carefully reinstall the axle / drum assembly trying not to scratch or cut the new seal. Remember to bleed the rear brake lines after reinstall of the axle/drum assembly.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128/replacing-rear-axle-seals-3rd-gen-4runner-76339/
In a nutshell, axle leaks are due to inner seal failure, a common problem with Toyotas. Luckily, this doesn't take a lot of time or money to fix, about 1/2 hour per side and $15 in seals. Napa seals last substantially longer than Toyota seals, in my experience.
The bearing is a sealed unit (i.e. does not leak) and will usually last a minimum of 80-100K miles before needing replacement. The bearing needs replacing only when axial play (axle is sloppy in and out) becomes more than a few thousandths of an inch.
The outer seal is simply a dust seal for the bearing and does nothing to stop leaks.
To add to Bob's writeup:
Removing the brake drum isn't necessary, just remove the tire, disconnect the hydraulic line and parking cable. Undo the 4 nuts on the inner mount and, presto!, the axle pulls right out. Plug the hydraulic line or clamp the rubber flex section above the differential so as not to leak brake fluid everywhere.
Carefully remove the old inner seal so as not to scratch the sealing surfaces. Carefully and squarely install a new seal so as not to cut or scratch the sealing surfaces. Lightly coat the rubber sealing surface with axle fluid or wheel bearing grease. Carefully reinstall the axle / drum assembly trying not to scratch or cut the new seal. Remember to bleed the rear brake lines after reinstall of the axle/drum assembly.
10-07-2006, 08:51 PM
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Check out the Tech article:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76339
In a nutshell, axle leaks are due to inner seal failure, a common problem with Toyotas. Luckily, this doesn't take a lot of time or money to fix, about 1/2 hour per side and $15 in seals. Napa seals last substantially longer than Toyota seals, in my experience.
The bearing is a sealed unit (i.e. does not leak) and will usually last a minimum of 80-100K miles before needing replacement. The bearing needs replacing only when axial play (axle is sloppy in and out) becomes more than a few thousandths of an inch.
The outer seal is simply a dust seal for the bearing and does nothing to stop leaks.
To add to Bob's writeup:
Removing the brake drum isn't necessary, just remove the tire, disconnect the hydraulic line and parking cable. Undo the 4 nuts on the inner mount and, presto!, the axle pulls right out. Plug the hydraulic line or clamp the rubber flex section above the differential so as not to leak brake fluid everywhere.
Carefully remove the old inner seal so as not to scratch the sealing surfaces. Carefully and squarely install a new seal so as not to cut or scratch the sealing surfaces. Lightly coat the rubber sealing surface with axle fluid or wheel bearing grease. Carefully reinstall the axle / drum assembly trying not to scratch or cut the new seal. Remember to bleed the rear brake lines after reinstall of the axle/drum assembly.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76339
In a nutshell, axle leaks are due to inner seal failure, a common problem with Toyotas. Luckily, this doesn't take a lot of time or money to fix, about 1/2 hour per side and $15 in seals. Napa seals last substantially longer than Toyota seals, in my experience.
The bearing is a sealed unit (i.e. does not leak) and will usually last a minimum of 80-100K miles before needing replacement. The bearing needs replacing only when axial play (axle is sloppy in and out) becomes more than a few thousandths of an inch.
The outer seal is simply a dust seal for the bearing and does nothing to stop leaks.
To add to Bob's writeup:
Removing the brake drum isn't necessary, just remove the tire, disconnect the hydraulic line and parking cable. Undo the 4 nuts on the inner mount and, presto!, the axle pulls right out. Plug the hydraulic line or clamp the rubber flex section above the differential so as not to leak brake fluid everywhere.
Carefully remove the old inner seal so as not to scratch the sealing surfaces. Carefully and squarely install a new seal so as not to cut or scratch the sealing surfaces. Lightly coat the rubber sealing surface with axle fluid or wheel bearing grease. Carefully reinstall the axle / drum assembly trying not to scratch or cut the new seal. Remember to bleed the rear brake lines after reinstall of the axle/drum assembly.
Didn't realize the outer seal was just for dust. I knew the bearing is bad if it has play in it, but didn't know it would leak. As of now I don't think my bearing is bad. I guess what has me hesitant the most about just going and buying the inner seal is that so many guys on YT seem to replace the seal only to find that it still leaks. Could be improper installation I suppose, but I think I'll give it a try myself first.
By the way, went to the dealer today to price out the parts to "rebuild" the rear axle, my local Toyota dealership is charging the following:
Inner seal - $8.10
Bearing - $71.59
Collars - $22.22 x2
ABS ring - $57.05
Outer seal - $6.71
Snap ring $2.22
Total: $190.11
Having no idea what I'm doing: very expensive.
10-09-2006, 08:18 AM
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While others have cited bent / out of round axle shafts or a plugged differential breather, I would say that most leaks are due to improper installation and Toyota seals not being so good. Napa seals simply work better for me. I'm about 9 for 10 on getting new seals in correctly. Seating them squarely is where I have difficulties.
To aid in removal and replacement, get a cheap seal puller (91352) and driver kit (35555) from Harbor Freight.
To aid in removal and replacement, get a cheap seal puller (91352) and driver kit (35555) from Harbor Freight.
10-09-2006, 08:30 AM
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Can't help you on how to fix it but I had my axel seal on my rear passenger side. I had my mechanic replace both inner and outerseals with NAPA seals and I told him to go ahead and replace my brake pads on that side. He charged $195 for everything.
05-24-2007, 07:53 PM
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[QUOTE
In a nutshell, axle leaks are due to inner seal failure, a common problem with Toyotas. Luckily, this doesn't take a lot of time or money to fix, about 1/2 hour per side and $15 in seals. Napa seals last substantially longer than Toyota seals, in my experience.
The bearing is a sealed unit (i.e. does not leak) and will usually last a minimum of 80-100K miles before needing replacement. The bearing needs replacing only when axial play (axle is sloppy in and out) becomes more than a few thousandths of an inch.
The outer seal is simply a dust seal for the bearing and does nothing to stop leaks.
To add to Bob's writeup:
Removing the brake drum isn't necessary, just remove the tire, disconnect the hydraulic line and parking cable. Undo the 4 nuts on the inner mount and, presto!, the axle pulls right out. Plug the hydraulic line or clamp the rubber flex section above the differential so as not to leak brake fluid everywhere.
Carefully remove the old inner seal so as not to scratch the sealing surfaces. Carefully and squarely install a new seal so as not to cut or scratch the sealing surfaces. Lightly coat the rubber sealing surface with axle fluid or wheel bearing grease. Carefully reinstall the axle / drum assembly trying not to scratch or cut the new seal. Remember to bleed the rear brake lines after reinstall of the axle/drum assembly.[/QUOTE]
Thank you for this post, it was exactly what I was searching for!
Thanks
In a nutshell, axle leaks are due to inner seal failure, a common problem with Toyotas. Luckily, this doesn't take a lot of time or money to fix, about 1/2 hour per side and $15 in seals. Napa seals last substantially longer than Toyota seals, in my experience.
The bearing is a sealed unit (i.e. does not leak) and will usually last a minimum of 80-100K miles before needing replacement. The bearing needs replacing only when axial play (axle is sloppy in and out) becomes more than a few thousandths of an inch.
The outer seal is simply a dust seal for the bearing and does nothing to stop leaks.
To add to Bob's writeup:
Removing the brake drum isn't necessary, just remove the tire, disconnect the hydraulic line and parking cable. Undo the 4 nuts on the inner mount and, presto!, the axle pulls right out. Plug the hydraulic line or clamp the rubber flex section above the differential so as not to leak brake fluid everywhere.
Carefully remove the old inner seal so as not to scratch the sealing surfaces. Carefully and squarely install a new seal so as not to cut or scratch the sealing surfaces. Lightly coat the rubber sealing surface with axle fluid or wheel bearing grease. Carefully reinstall the axle / drum assembly trying not to scratch or cut the new seal. Remember to bleed the rear brake lines after reinstall of the axle/drum assembly.[/QUOTE]
Thank you for this post, it was exactly what I was searching for!
Thanks
06-25-2009, 08:43 PM
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So I know this is an old thread but I found it useful enough to get myself started and now im stuck so here goes.
I have replaced both inner seals (Driver and Passenger) on my 97 4Runner 130K. Twice! first i used the Kragen auto seal then once it failed a week later(concerned i used bad parts) I used the Toyota part that ends with a 6 to do the fix. I got the above mentioned seal puller and driver kit from HF Tools. I found that the instructions on the forum (and the rest of the web) were helpful to get the assembly apart, pull the seal and clean up. When installing the new seal I was careful to put the seal in as straight as possible. They start to get a little crooked when installing so I went slow and it all straightened out and looked like it seated correctly. I was pretty careful not to let the axle touch the seal until i couldn't see it anymore.
I also replaced my brakes and sanded my drums ( shoes were almost brand new before the seals failed and drums were good and flat)
Here it is a week later and I took off the drums again after loosing braking power again and there is fresh gear oil in the drums on both sides.
Any advice? Is it time to give up and pay to have it done? Now that i have flooded the drums twice with gear oil I am concerned about my bearings. Some say to replace, some say to wait till they go bad. The bearing fix doesn't look DIY to me. I live pretty close to a TAP junkyard so I am going to call tomorrow and see if they have any replacement parts to save on cost.
I have replaced both inner seals (Driver and Passenger) on my 97 4Runner 130K. Twice! first i used the Kragen auto seal then once it failed a week later(concerned i used bad parts) I used the Toyota part that ends with a 6 to do the fix. I got the above mentioned seal puller and driver kit from HF Tools. I found that the instructions on the forum (and the rest of the web) were helpful to get the assembly apart, pull the seal and clean up. When installing the new seal I was careful to put the seal in as straight as possible. They start to get a little crooked when installing so I went slow and it all straightened out and looked like it seated correctly. I was pretty careful not to let the axle touch the seal until i couldn't see it anymore.
I also replaced my brakes and sanded my drums ( shoes were almost brand new before the seals failed and drums were good and flat)
Here it is a week later and I took off the drums again after loosing braking power again and there is fresh gear oil in the drums on both sides.
Any advice? Is it time to give up and pay to have it done? Now that i have flooded the drums twice with gear oil I am concerned about my bearings. Some say to replace, some say to wait till they go bad. The bearing fix doesn't look DIY to me. I live pretty close to a TAP junkyard so I am going to call tomorrow and see if they have any replacement parts to save on cost.
06-26-2009, 09:41 AM
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Same thing happened to me. I gave up after 2 tries of replacing the seals myself. I finally took it to the shop and had them replace the bearings and just about every seal on both sides. I figured, if it starts leaking again, it's covered under their guarantee. Going on 3 weeks now and been oil free!
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