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#126 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,516
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02 Tacoma 4-Dr 4x4 V6 117k miles |
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#127 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 292
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Quote:
Your manual does not ask for synthetic anything...yet you put it everywhere. Thanks for your information, but let it go.
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'97 4Runner Limited 4x4 w/Locker Grey (Red & Blue) Wire Mod 2Lo Mod Tundra DC Non-TRD front with stock Tundra Tokicos (2.5") Downey 3" rear lift with Monroe Reflex Shocks (Thanks Chaplain!) Soldier for Christ. |
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#128 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,516
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Quote:
uhh the synthetic form of DEXIII IS DEXIII, DUH.... now implying that TIV is backwards compatable to DEXIII is just dumb bc its so untrue. it maybe similar but no where no how no one has ever claimed it to be backwards compatible. its ok you dont understand the benefits of a synthetic product but i would do the research.. you may learn something you may not have known to begin with
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02 Tacoma 4-Dr 4x4 V6 117k miles |
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#129 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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One more quick question as I'm about to change the atf, just waiting for those new magnets to come in the mail tomorrow.
What exactly is the sequence I should go in? Here's what I'm thinking... 1. Drain the pan and take it off with a mallet or paintscraper as it could be stuck in place with that gasket. 2. Clean the pan off and put in the new magnets. 3. Remove the old filter and put in the new one. 4. Reattach the pan with some FIPG. 5. Should I let it sit overnight so the gasket can properly take? I'm using Permatex "Right Stuff" and it says that it sets in one minute. Also, do I need to fill the pan back up with fluid before I start the entire drain of the system? 6. Detach the hose from the radiator that goes to the pan and the one that goes into the radiator. The one that goes from the radiator to the motor should suck atf, so I'm going to put that hose in the new ATF. The other hose should spit out the old ATF, that one will go into a bucket. 7. Start the truck and start swapping out ATF. Should I put all the new ATF in a bucket so the hose can have a constant source or just go from bottle to bottle? Is this process a bad idea and I should just pour the ATF in the fill port (where dipstick is located) and drain ATF through radiator hose? 8. When ATF is switched out (which will take how long????) what do I do? Turn off the truck and quickly hook the hose back up? How much of the good stuff is going to spill out when I'm doing this? 9. Check to see if fluid level is correct and drive truck around a bit. After some driving check level again to be sure it's properly filled. Did I miss anything? I just don't want to get out there and mess something up. Thanks!! |
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#130 (permalink) | ||
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 8,916
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Quote:
Quote:
When pouring in the fill tube go slow, and look to make sure your o-ring in the middle of the fill tube isn't leaking ATF out all over the floor.
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~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 03-16-2008 at 06:07 PM. |
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#131 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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Ok...one more quick question. When I refill the pan I should put the new fluid in it right? Does the dipstick tube go directly to the pan? I would imagine so as I don't know how else I could refill the pan.
Essentially what I think will be happening is that I'll be pouring new fluid into the pan and it will be sucked up by the pump and put through the tranny. Then the fluid that's been through the tranny hits the radiator, when it exits the radiator instead of going back in to the pan for it's second trip through the system it's going to go into a bucket while the new ATF is added through the dipstick tube. Correct? |
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#132 (permalink) | |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 8,916
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Quote:
__________________
~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. |
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#133 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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Well, I took off the pan, cleaned it, and put the new magnets in. (And holy crap are those little buggers strong!!!)
I clean off where the gasket was on the pan and on the bottom of the tranny. I replaced the filter, mine was super clean inside though! I put all that back together with some FIPG. The total amount of ATF that I collected in the bucket was around 5 quarts. This includes what came out of the filter, which was about a half a quart maybe? I'm not really sure. I put three quarts back in and am going to wait until tomorrow to refill the rest and replace the rest of the ATF. Am I going to need to remove my skid plates in order to get to the radiator hose that I'll need to drain the old ATF from? Also, I had to pour the new ATF very very slowly in order to not build up back pressure in that little dipstick tube and get overflow out of the tube. Is this going to be a problem when I try to replace my ATF that's in the pump? I don't want to start doing it and have the pump run dry because I can't pour in the ATF fast enough. Thanks! Last edited by Quattro15; 03-17-2008 at 09:08 PM. |
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#134 (permalink) | |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 8,916
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Quote:
You will have to shut off the motor (stop the tranny pump) while filling, no way you can keep up with it running. Well actually... there is a way, but it involves a flush machine. I made an experimental flush machine out of a 5 gal plastic bucket. I'll try to get some pics of it next time I'm in the attic. Basiclly it is a plastic pressure vessel (I know...oxymoron) but I did test it and it held 15-20 psi without blowing up LOL. It will force the ATF in the return line. I drilled a hole and put in a valve stem, and used a small 12 volt air pump to keep the pressure up while flushing, but I still needed to shut down the truck to keep up with the tranny pump (that pump is fast).
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~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 03-18-2008 at 04:36 AM. |
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#135 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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Yeah, I thought that would be the case.
What about that return line....do I need to take off my skid plates to get to it? |
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#136 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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I just did a flush this weekend to try and recover from a leaky radiator/tran cooler last week... 20-24 quarts of fluid until it ran red out the return line. Lots of starting/stopping but not too bad, and didn't take all that long to do. I started by draining pan, filling 3-4 quarts, then running for a few seconds, refilling, repeating... etc
a remote start made this much easier, as I could start/stop while watching the return line had a friend helping, but was still easierI plan on running another 12 quarts through it next week, just to be sure, and in the summer I want to drop the pan and replace the filter as well... any one have experience with the fill/tube being an issue when removing pan? I have heard it commonly breaks off, is this true? (MI truck = more salt/rust)
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Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: ??? Nothing? |
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#137 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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and yes, return line is easiest accessible at connection to radiator, but when disconnecting mine to install a aux cooler (to bypass/remove radiator from system) the fitting completely broke off and I had to get a new radiator ($$$)
__________________
Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: ??? Nothing? |
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#139 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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yeah, i have heard that is an alternate, but also that it is supposed to be able to be taken apart, guessing most people just drop it with the pan?
__________________
Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: ??? Nothing? |
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#140 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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Yeah...it takes some twisting and turning to get it out but that joint in the middle of the fill tube is nice in that regard. I left my truck on the ground and still got the pan out from underneath it. It's a little more tricky to get it back exactly where it goes, but doable. Just took me a little trial and error to get it right, I also had to wipe the pan back out after I got it almost back into place as crud from above was falling down on it while I was working it back into position. I had some new ATF that I pour on a rag to wipe it out, all the dust stuck to it pretty well.
Just be sure that you don't put your form in place gasket back on the pan until you get it in proper position to put it back into place as you may take too much time to get it there and have a dry gasket by the time you figure it out. I used Permatex "Right Stuff" and it worked great, very easy to apply in a tight space under the truck. I do think that I stripped out a bolt on the pan when I was reattaching it, but there is like 30 bolts on there and all the holes got filled with the FIPG so I don't think it's an issue, it'll just get locked into place like the pan when the gasket seals. I just did this last night so if you have any other questions about how it went let me know! |
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#141 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,516
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dang you go boy! glad you didnt have any real issues with it!
__________________
02 Tacoma 4-Dr 4x4 V6 117k miles |
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#142 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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quattro, did you flush the whole thing out? If so, how many quarts did you use? Any other details?
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#143 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,516
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i dont think he is done yet, i think he just dropped the pan and etc..
__________________
02 Tacoma 4-Dr 4x4 V6 117k miles |
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#144 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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Ok...I just got done flushing the entire system out.
Here's what it took..... It took just at 15 quarts to get it all lookin new and fresh, so I'd get a couple more quarts than that if I was going to do it again. The drain tube is the one on the driver's side, it's right next to a large radiator hose. This tube drained (on my 99 tacoma mind you) at about a quart every 20 seconds. I started the engine, let 20 seconds go by, turned off the engine, poured a fresh quart in through the dipstick tube (VERY SLOWLY as to not spill any out the tube) and then poured the contents that were in my drain bucket back into the ATF bottle that I just emptied in order to keep track of how much I was gettting out of the tranny as well. Right when I got to quart 15 my old ATF, the stuff coming out of the radiator, started to look cherry red, the same color as the new Amsoil I was putting in. I compared colors every time I changed out a quart but putting the old stuff back in an Amsoil bottle and tilting it with the cap open to only get a thin amount on the top of the bottleneck while doing the same with the fresh Amsoil ATF. The old stuff was a dull brownish red color while the new was much more clear and vibrant. When the bottles looked almost identical I stopped the process, this was right at 15 quarts for me. Also, dry off your fitting well before reattaching the tube to the radiator, don't want that thing dripping ATF as you'd never know, it would hit your skidplate and not the ground. I ran mine for a few mins without the plates reattached just to be sure there was no leaks. Mine was all good though. Anything else you all want to know? |
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#145 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,516
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Quote:
side question-- what did you use to get the return line off and what did you use to get it into the bucket or wherever you drained it from?
__________________
02 Tacoma 4-Dr 4x4 V6 117k miles |
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#146 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Nice job Quattro, I have a feeling alot of people are going to be referencing this thread in the future.
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#147 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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I took the return line off the radiator. The there was a brass fitting that was angled down coming of the radiator, this is what I used to drain from, not the rubber line itself.
I got that line off with a pair of pliers as there was only a clamp holding it into place. Piece of cake, just had to twist the line a bit in order to get it loose enough to pull off. I used a half gallon bucket that I have cut in half to fit under my truck, I use this bucket for all my drain jobs....Oil, etc. |
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#148 (permalink) | |
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Contributing Member
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Quote:
__________________
Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: ??? Nothing? |
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#149 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,516
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Quote:
__________________
02 Tacoma 4-Dr 4x4 V6 117k miles |
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#150 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 346
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Quote:
Thanks for all the help everyone, couldn't have do this stuff without it! |
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| Tags |
| atf, dex, dexiii, hubs, matience, maxlife, replace, switching, tacoma, tiv, toyota, valvoline, warn, ws |
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