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Old 03-12-2008, 10:57 AM   #76 (permalink)
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if you want to keep that atf in good shape bc dexIII is bad about shearing and going to crap quite soon then do 10-15k mile drain and fills.. personally i would be switching to a synthetic dexIII, bc it holds up much much better than its dino counter parts

yeah, i'm going to switch to mobile 1 this week
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Old 03-12-2008, 11:01 AM   #77 (permalink)
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yeah, i'm going to switch to mobile 1 this week
make sure its not the Multivehicle M1.. there are two out now.. the original
M1 and now the multivehicle.. some say its fine but if it doesnt say DEXIII on the bottle then i wouldnt use it.. pretty simple really..... if you can find amsoil i would go with it.. fine stuff!
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Old 03-12-2008, 11:38 AM   #78 (permalink)
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They've got the M1 stuff over at Wally world for about 5.50 a quart. Amsoil is $9 a quart if I'm not mistaken?!?!

Is Amsoil really worth the extra dough?
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:04 PM   #79 (permalink)
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They've got the M1 stuff over at Wally world for about 5.50 a quart. Amsoil is $9 a quart if I'm not mistaken?!?!

Is Amsoil really worth the extra dough?

thats a personal question i will not answer


its up to you.. either one will be fine. i am just partial to amsoil bc i know how well it works first hand thats all.. M1 will serve you just fine.
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:25 PM   #80 (permalink)
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I say M1 is the industry standard for all Synthetics. Can't go wrong with the industry standard, can you?
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:30 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I say M1 is the industry standard for all Synthetics. Can't go wrong with the industry standard, can you?

USED to be industry standard (as far as motor oil goes M1, is lagging behind)... penzoil platinum, asmoil and schaeffers beat it hands down. do the research.... as far as atf yeah they are fairly top notch but there always have and always will be something better than M1..
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:40 PM   #82 (permalink)
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http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...21.html?page=1

Check that link out if you want to "flush" your transmission on your own. I will be doing this in a couple of weeks since my tranny hasn't been serviced, ever.
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:48 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Funny that I ran across this thread as I am flushing mine right now and I am taking a break for the Sealant to seal up before I get going again. Ok...I have debated this in my head for a week on which Fluid to use. I live in KC and I called every dealer in town. They all said use DEX III and I made them to look it up as well. A couple said you could use Type IV but not the other way around and those 3 dealers who told me that also said there was really no benefit especially if you add the extra 2 dollars a quart. Dex III Toyota brand is Very hard to find in the quart here. Most sold Mag 1 or something else at the dealer in the quart. I decided that I will use OEM this time because it is so much cheaper...it is the OE fluid.. and I prefer to change more often than later. And I am a Mobil synthetic guy. That is what is in the ATF now, and in everything else, motor, gears, transfer case. Some might think I am taking a step backwards, but I got 19 (a few extra) quarts of Toyota ATF for $55, half that of M1. Just my 2 cents
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:09 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Funny that I ran across this thread as I am flushing mine right now and I am taking a break for the Sealant to seal up before I get going again. Ok...I have debated this in my head for a week on which Fluid to use. I live in KC and I called every dealer in town. They all said use DEX III and I made them to look it up as well. A couple said you could use Type IV but not the other way around and those 3 dealers who told me that also said there was really no benefit especially if you add the extra 2 dollars a quart. Dex III Toyota brand is Very hard to find in the quart here. Most sold Mag 1 or something else at the dealer in the quart. I decided that I will use OEM this time because it is so much cheaper...it is the OE fluid.. and I prefer to change more often than later. And I am a Mobil synthetic guy. That is what is in the ATF now, and in everything else, motor, gears, transfer case. Some might think I am taking a step backwards, but I got 19 (a few extra) quarts of Toyota ATF for $55, half that of M1. Just my 2 cents
So you used Toyota Dex III? Just to clear things up a bit. Great info btw. It stands to reason that if you do a full manual flush with the Toyota Dex III and regularly (2nd or 3rd change) do a dump and fill, everything should be kosher from then on out. Right?
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:15 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Yes DexIII
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:29 PM   #86 (permalink)
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So how much was it for the DexIII from the dealership? $55 bucks? Sounds pretty cheap compared to M1 being around 120 for the same amount of ATF.

Is M1 really THAT much better than the dealership stuff?
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:51 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I just had all my fluids changed today - diffs, transfer case, and transmission - with Mobil 1. I would have done the engine oil, too, but I just put synthetic in it less than 1,000 miles ago so it can wait.

Anyway, I also had the both the transmission and the cooling system flushed, in addition to a bunch of other 'scheduled maintenance' type stuff. I have to say, it runs and drives noticeably better now.

They also got me for a new MAF sensor, unfortunately.

Not to hijack the thread, but here's a question, however: on the invoice I received for the service, it only says "10 units" under the automatic transmission fluid flush. Is that right? I was under the impression it took more. I'm sure they wouldn't under-fill it, but since they're charging me per unit of fluid, I'm confused.

Another question here: they suggested I come back for a "drive belt replacement and due for timing belt water pump" for $1050. Does that seem a bit high?
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:15 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Another question here: they suggested I come back for a "drive belt replacement and due for timing belt water pump" for $1050. Does that seem a bit high?
I would say that is WAY too much money for drive belt replacement and timing belt.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:31 PM   #89 (permalink)
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I just had all my fluids changed today - diffs, transfer case, and transmission - with Mobil 1.
Transfer Case and Diffs too?

I guess I might as well get all this done at once huh?

Should I take the rear Diff apart or just drain and fill it?
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Old 03-12-2008, 11:49 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Yeah...thats $55 for 19 quarts. Cheap imo. Flushing took about 18 quarts because I wanted to make sure I got it all. And yes....10 units is quarts on the invoice. Thats how I have always seen it.
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:18 AM   #91 (permalink)
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you can put that UNlicensed dex3 crap in your trannies but i wont.. the synthetics LAST LONGER, LUBE BETTER, FLOW BETTER, ALLOW COOLER TRANNY TEMPS and etc etc... guys, if you use synthetics in your motor why not put it in your tranny??? your tranny works twice as hard as your motor. if there is one part on your truck that should get synthetics is your tranny.. save $ on the parts. thats just my opinion..besides you guys go thru the trouble of flushing but yet put sub standard cheap dex3 back in? doesnt make sense.. sorry for the rant lol.. ill spend 120$ on my tranny every 40-50k miles in a heartbeat
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:19 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Transfer Case and Diffs too?

I guess I might as well get all this done at once huh?

Should I take the rear Diff apart or just drain and fill it?
drain and fill dude. drive around a bit first to warm the oil up and then drain. it will drain easier.
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:15 AM   #93 (permalink)
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I would say that is WAY too much money for drive belt replacement and timing belt.
That's what I thought when I saw it. I've read some thread on here where people had their timing belt and water pumps replaced for around $500, so another $550 to do the drive belts sounds very suspect.

Actually, I thought some of the other stuff was a little pricey, too.

For example: if you were going to have new spark plugs and wires installed along with the PCV valve, what would you expect the labor charge to be for that? They charged me $192 labor to do that tune up. I could put plugs in my truck in 30 minutes, I imagine, but are the wires that much more time consuming?

I'll list the invoice line-by-line later tonight if anyone thinks that sounds exorbinant.
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:25 AM   #94 (permalink)
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you can put that UNlicensed dex3 crap in your trannies but i wont.. the synthetics LAST LONGER, LUBE BETTER, FLOW BETTER, ALLOW COOLER TRANNY TEMPS and etc etc... guys, if you use synthetics in your motor why not put it in your tranny??? your tranny works twice as hard as your motor. if there is one part on your truck that should get synthetics is your tranny.. save $ on the parts. thats just my opinion..besides you guys go thru the trouble of flushing but yet put sub standard cheap dex3 back in? doesnt make sense.. sorry for the rant lol.. ill spend 120$ on my tranny every 40-50k miles in a heartbeat
since you are so 'behind' your transmission

I use dealer supplied toyota fluid in my transmission. the engineers who spec the transmission and account for wear and longevity and everything else about the tranny, know the characteristics and performance of only one brand of tranny fluid. the stuff toyota puts in them. it is wise to stay with the same exact stuff the engineers tell the tech writers to tell the consumer to use. something that 'flows better' and 'cools better' means it is different in a few ways from what the dealer and toyota japan tests and studies.

it may be such a small difference that no one will notice, but I needed to point this out. use dealer supplied, toyota labeled junk and you cannot go wrong, and will very likely have the best performing and longest lasting transmission around. this goes for the chemical makeup of the seals and clutches and metal bits in the transmission.
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:35 AM   #95 (permalink)
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since you are so 'behind' your transmission

I use dealer supplied toyota fluid in my transmission. the engineers who spec the transmission and account for wear and longevity and everything else about the tranny, know the characteristics and performance of only one brand of tranny fluid. the stuff toyota puts in them. it is wise to stay with the same exact stuff the engineers tell the tech writers to tell the consumer to use. something that 'flows better' and 'cools better' means it is different in a few ways from what the dealer and toyota japan tests and studies.

it may be such a small difference that no one will notice, but I needed to point this out. use dealer supplied, toyota labeled junk and you cannot go wrong, and will very likely have the best performing and longest lasting transmission around. this goes for the chemical makeup of the seals and clutches and metal bits in the transmission.
do the research on DEXIII atf big guy.. what you wrote is correct to an extent. the syns that i suggested are for dexIII trannies. but a much better composition.. it meets and EXCEEDS the requirements for dexIII.. nothing wrong with that.. go talk to a good yota tech he will tell you the same about using a synthetic DEXIII compared to a conventional one.. OEM uses re-branded products.. yes they meet the requrirements of what yota wants BUT yota goes with the CHEAPEST supplier that they can find.. pay the extra 2 bucks a quart and get some stuff that meets and exceeds oem and lasts longer. any decent engineer would tell you thats the way to go. besides most atf's now are blended and or full synthetics... hence the new DEXIV that just came out this past year for chevrolet.. its very top notch stuff and most is synthetic.......... the dexIII synthetics are much better for your seals than conventional..this goes for most synthetics period
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:43 AM   #96 (permalink)
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I'll letcha know the first moment I have a problem with my 4runner transmission. I have it flushed and filled on the non-severe service intervals at the dealer. over 150,000 miles now and it's perfect
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:59 AM   #97 (permalink)
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yeah you keep up with it.. thats great! but i was merely saying the synthetic dexIII is WAY better than its dino counterpart.. thats all.. plus you get better protection... dexIII dino is very bad about shearing early do the research
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:04 AM   #98 (permalink)
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yeah you keep up with it.. thats great! but i was merely saying the synthetic dexIII is WAY better than its dino counterpart.. thats all.. plus you get better protection... dexIII dino is very bad about shearing early do the research
I am doing the research. I am driving my 4runner till I am unable to continue doing so. that may be tomorrow, or 500,000 miles from now.

apparently with dex III like I am using that will be sooner than later

who knows ? I trust my toyota manual in the glovebox on this one. call it a hunch. you can laugh at me when
I report that I am stranded in 1st gear in the fast lane on I95

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Old 03-13-2008, 08:10 AM   #99 (permalink)
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I am doing the research. I am driving my 4runner till I am unable to continue doing so. that may be tomorrow, or 500,000 miles from now.

apparently with dex III like I am using that will be sooner than later

who knows ? I trust my toyota manual in the glovebox on this one. call it a hunch
LOL.. thats fine. you should go by your manual.. but why not use a known BETTER dexIII fluid?? bc it costs 2 dollars more?? doesnt make sense.. its common knowledge that any dexIII syn is the UPGRADE to dino dexIII's... we both arent wrong about this subject. i was merely telling quatro that for his use in his truck a synthetic would benefit him more.. he has to deal with some really steep hills in the mtns of NC.. therefore much more strain on his tranny.. M1 would serve him VERY well in those conditions.. there is so much proof on this its not even funny.
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:11 AM   #100 (permalink)
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All I saw at the Auto parts store was M1 multivehicle atf....is this what I'm supposed to put in there?

It was in a silver bottle with a black cap. Don't see anything like that on the website.

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