MikeMc709

I have an Audiobahn A18001DT amp running Two Audiobahn ALUM12Q subwoofers. The amp puts out 3600 watts max, so I am assuming that each sub gets at the most 1800 watts max.

When my music is up loud, my battery can not keep up with the power needed for the amp, and as a result everytime it hits, my rev's drop and all my lights dim.

I got a new regular battery back in August and by December they were telling me my battery failed it's test when I got an oil change.

What is the best way to address this problem? Get a deep cycle battery, such as Optima, or to get a capcitor? I am leaning more towards a capcitor, seeing as it is ment to dump it's whole charge at once (when the system hits hard).

Also, when my car drops in rev's is that just wasting gas because the spark plugs don't have the needed power to fire, so the fuel goes through un burned?

mswfox

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure thats what capacitors are meant for. The battery charges them up and then when your system kicks really hard the capacitor dumps everything all at once and then charges back up (instead of drawing all the power from your battery). That should fix your problem.

tj884Rdlx

yes, you have it right. caps are meant to provide that power burst with add'l VOLTAGE. however, if your system draws more AMPERAGE than your alt puts out, the cap isn't enough, you need a bigger alt.

here's a good link: http://community.crutchfield.com/for...ead/56744.aspx
crutchfield is a great resource for any audio info.

MikeMc709

Alright thanks guys...just wanted to make sure

SoCalPaul

Sounds like your alternator can't put out enough power to charge your battery & run your amps. I would start with a high output alternator & some capacitors. If you still have a problem, a second battery is next on the list.

Here's the specs on your amp:
# 600 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms mono
# 1200 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms mono
# 1800 watts x 1 @ 1 ohm mono
# Class D Circuitry
# Multi Stranded Power Supply Toroids
# Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
# THD: 0.05%
# S/N Ratio: >100dB
# Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz (± 1dB)

Your 1800 Watt amp has the potential to draw nearly 150 amps, your stock alternator probably puts out 70-90 amps. I know you can find a 130 amp alternator & maybe higher.

MikeMc709

I'm not really looking into getting a new alternator...sounds expensive..and a capcitor is only like 100 bucks...I don't pound my system the whole time I'm driving, only like 5-10%of the time...I think I can just get away with just adding a capcitor

Thanks for all the input and info

racingcameron66

get a GOOD cap not a cheap one, i had a rockford fosgate that worked good

mswfox

x2, honestly cheap capacitors are just no good, and I've also seen great results with Fosgate.

MikeMc709

Look like a good product?

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...n_US&p_status=

Richjrosa

I'd actually have to say get both. Add the cap first a good one like street wires 1 farad or better. A nice yellow top would also help when driving at night with the high beams on and the bass is hitting. Also what ohms load are you running it at? If you're running it at 1 ohm mono it's going to draw alot more juice then 4 ohm.

MikeMc709

They are running at 1 ohm

Capacitor + Optima Yellow Top= like close to $400...way too much money

It doesn't really both me that my lights dim, I just don't want to put a strain on all my other electronics and have something important go

Richjrosa

Well I have heard if you strain your charging system but overloading the draw on it too much you can fry the alt. You should be able to get a yellow top and cap for less than 4 bills. I'd say three easy. I know it sucks but when you're running that much draw you're going to fry something if you don't do it right.

Richjrosa

I have two JL amps a 5 channel and a mono block running about 1200 W total and I have a 1 farad cap. It still dims the high beams when I'm bumpin good at night. JL also has "built in" tech that's supposed to prevent the need for caps but I still run one. I admit I still don't have a yellow top but I'm not suckin down half the juice you are at full power.

toylocost

Yeah both is the right way to go. and the big 3 mod. throw a high output alt on top of that and you will never have to worry.

toylocost

Oh yeah and NEVER forget to check ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE...3A1%7C294%3A50

MikeMc709

From my research, it's 1 farad per 1000 watts and you can't have too big of a cap

Yellow tops are good batteries because they are "Deep Cycle", meaning that they can be drained further and recharged alot more then most batteries. So my thinking is it's for people with alot of off road lights or car shows with their lights/music on while the car isn't running to recharge it. They aren't necessarly more powerful batteries.

Correct me if I'm wrong but thats what I got from my limited research on the matter

mikes19984x4

if you really want something that will keep up with that system of yours, look into getting a kinetik power cell...me and my friend were both running 3 pioneer premier 12s...the 3000 watt max ones...and with our amps we were pulling some serious amps when kicking out such high wattage...the kinetik power cells are a bit pricey, but well worth it if you're serious about your sound

O.State4runner

^ times a thousand. it helps to get a deep cycle battery but getting a kinetik powercell makes a huuuuge difference.

MikeMc709

What are they? Just another battery?

Like I said, I only pound my system maybe 5% of the time, and most of my driving now-a-days is literally within a 3 mile radius, with the ocassional 220 mile high way trip home..so If I do listen to my system up loud will that be enough time for my car to charge up/replace the power I drain from powercell/deep cycle battery/capcitor?

I don't do sound competitions, or car shows, or anything like that..my system is just for my personal liking..so idk if putting in a (starting out at) $200 powercell is in my budget

But thanks for all your guys input...if you are into bass then check out this guy's Tahoe..IT IS INSANE!!!!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/user/meade916

O.State4runner

if you only bump 5% of the time, i'd scratch the kinetik battery out of ur list to get. but yes, in a nutshell its another battery. i think that depending on your gain/bass boost on your amp, a single farad cap might be just enough. les schwab has the XHD battery which is between a standard and a deep cycle and here at my local schwab i think its $80-90.

I bump 75% while driving round the city with rockfords p2d212 (woofer) and they're P400-2 amp tuned to 500w. I've got a single rockford farad cap with the les schwab XHD battery and my lights don't dim at all when the bass hits. oh, and from what i've heard. the farad cap releases its power at the initial hit and may let that power dicipate for a moment and then needs to recharge. the kinetik battery keeps the power while charging at the same time. ( i think i butchd the explanation but you get the gist)

Hope that helps.