Anyone changed motor mounts?
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Anyone changed motor mounts?
I have to change out the motor mounts in my truck like yesterday...just looking for a little guidance from someone that has done this. Is it possible w/a floor jack or do I need an engine hoist? I've got an impact gun, sockets/wrenchs and a floor jack and that's about it. Looks like the dip stick goes right through the drivers side mount too...
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
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Okay, I went ahead and changed my motor mounts this last weekend. First, a disclaimer:
My truck has a 2" body lift. If you don't have at least a 2" body lift then your truck may require additional effort. Plan on an oil change when doing this. Also, if you choose to do this and the motor falls on your hand a crushes it because you failed to properly support the motor don't blame me. I do not work for OSHA nor am I affiliated with them so I am not familiar with fabricating safety guidelines and procedures and enforcing them to the letter. Understand that you are removing the motor mounts and that when you do there isn't much else that holds the motor in place. With that said, please take the proper precautions to ensure your safety.
Tools:
Oil/Oil Filter
14mm Wrench - Two of them
14mm Socket w/associate ratchet
Extension-9” worked for me
Possibly a wobbly
Big Phillips screwdriver
Floor Jack
What I did:
First let the truck warm up because you’re going to be changing the oil. After it reaches your desired oil change temp, pull the plug and take off the oil filter. Leave the oil filter off and be sure to take a rag and cover the filter mounting location.
Next, I placed the jack on the transmission bell housing right behind the oil drain plug. I raised the motor just slightly to help relieve some of the pressure on the mounts. I started with the driver’s side, which requires the removal of the dipstick. If you look up from underneath there is a 14mm bolt that holds the dip stick to the block. It was easier for me to get to it from the bottom. After you remove this bolt you should be able to just pull the dipstick tube out. Now take your two 14mm wrenches and remove the two bolts/nuts that hold the mount to the frame. Because of my lift I was able to remove the three 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the block with just a ratchet, 9” extension and 14mm socket. One of these three bolts is hiding behind the oil filter, hence the need to change the oil (along with the fact that you had to remove the dipstick). Give the jack a couple of good pumps to raise the motor a wee bit and you should be able to lift and twist the mount up and out of there. Installation of the new mount is opposite of removal. Make sure you put the dipstick/dipstick tube back in place too otherwise you might make a mess when you go to fill it with oil.
If you don’t have a body lift I don’t think you’ll be able to get the mount out between the frame and the sheet metal. I haven’t looked to see how much room there is on a non-body lifted truck, but I highly doubt it’s sufficient.
The passenger side mount is about the same. Take your big Phillips screwdriver and remove the retainer that holds part of the engine wiring harness. Once this is up and out of the way then you can remove the two 14mm bolts and nuts that hold the mount to the frame. This is where you’ll need the two 14mm wrecked. Then remove the four 14mm bolts the secure the mount to the block. Time again to give the floor jack a little more love and now it’s round two of twister to try and get the mount out between the sheet metal and the frame. Again, installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure all your bolts are tight, the dipstick tube is secure and sealed (driver’s side) and your wiring harness retainer is holding the wiring harness like it should be (passenger side). Install your oil filter, fill ‘er with oil and you should be ready to go.
That’s about it, not as bad as seems. Again, please be careful when doing this. Big props to Yota Yard for hooking me up with the mounts, $40=2 Good mounts.
Later,
Andrew
My truck has a 2" body lift. If you don't have at least a 2" body lift then your truck may require additional effort. Plan on an oil change when doing this. Also, if you choose to do this and the motor falls on your hand a crushes it because you failed to properly support the motor don't blame me. I do not work for OSHA nor am I affiliated with them so I am not familiar with fabricating safety guidelines and procedures and enforcing them to the letter. Understand that you are removing the motor mounts and that when you do there isn't much else that holds the motor in place. With that said, please take the proper precautions to ensure your safety.
Tools:
Oil/Oil Filter
14mm Wrench - Two of them
14mm Socket w/associate ratchet
Extension-9” worked for me
Possibly a wobbly
Big Phillips screwdriver
Floor Jack
What I did:
First let the truck warm up because you’re going to be changing the oil. After it reaches your desired oil change temp, pull the plug and take off the oil filter. Leave the oil filter off and be sure to take a rag and cover the filter mounting location.
Next, I placed the jack on the transmission bell housing right behind the oil drain plug. I raised the motor just slightly to help relieve some of the pressure on the mounts. I started with the driver’s side, which requires the removal of the dipstick. If you look up from underneath there is a 14mm bolt that holds the dip stick to the block. It was easier for me to get to it from the bottom. After you remove this bolt you should be able to just pull the dipstick tube out. Now take your two 14mm wrenches and remove the two bolts/nuts that hold the mount to the frame. Because of my lift I was able to remove the three 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the block with just a ratchet, 9” extension and 14mm socket. One of these three bolts is hiding behind the oil filter, hence the need to change the oil (along with the fact that you had to remove the dipstick). Give the jack a couple of good pumps to raise the motor a wee bit and you should be able to lift and twist the mount up and out of there. Installation of the new mount is opposite of removal. Make sure you put the dipstick/dipstick tube back in place too otherwise you might make a mess when you go to fill it with oil.
If you don’t have a body lift I don’t think you’ll be able to get the mount out between the frame and the sheet metal. I haven’t looked to see how much room there is on a non-body lifted truck, but I highly doubt it’s sufficient.
The passenger side mount is about the same. Take your big Phillips screwdriver and remove the retainer that holds part of the engine wiring harness. Once this is up and out of the way then you can remove the two 14mm bolts and nuts that hold the mount to the frame. This is where you’ll need the two 14mm wrecked. Then remove the four 14mm bolts the secure the mount to the block. Time again to give the floor jack a little more love and now it’s round two of twister to try and get the mount out between the sheet metal and the frame. Again, installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure all your bolts are tight, the dipstick tube is secure and sealed (driver’s side) and your wiring harness retainer is holding the wiring harness like it should be (passenger side). Install your oil filter, fill ‘er with oil and you should be ready to go.
That’s about it, not as bad as seems. Again, please be careful when doing this. Big props to Yota Yard for hooking me up with the mounts, $40=2 Good mounts.
Later,
Andrew
Last edited by Faded; 09-08-2003 at 01:51 PM.
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Damn, and there I was wondering what the big deal was. Sure is a lot easier to change them on the 4cyl. Unbolt one side, lift motor with floor jack, replace mount, lower, bolt in, repeat on other side.
#5
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Yea, the ratching box wrench would have made it a little easier, but all in all it wasn't so bad. With the V6 there isn't much room under there to yank out the mounts like there is on the 4 cyl.
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