Any with the 22r and other carb'd engines read this

Plays_with_Toys · 09-12-2003, 09:50 PM

I just found this moseying my way through some sites:

Its stacked aircleaners. The person who did it claims increase throttle response, increased exhaust note, and increased gas mileage. I can believe the first two, I am skeptical about the gas mileage, but I am going to run to checkers tomorrow or sunday and get a fram to go on top of my K&N. I can report back my results next week, but thought I'd put that out for you guys, especially since I personally had been trying to figure out a deckplate like mod for these motors for a while.

Here's a link to the thread:
http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/s...5&o=14&fpart=1

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Chanson88 · 09-12-2003, 09:57 PM

Sounds like when I used to turn the air filter cover upside down on my S-10, it sounded pretty cool but that was about it. But hey who doesn't want their engine to sound cool.

Plays_with_Toys · 09-12-2003, 10:11 PM

except this allows for more air to be sucked in. I am anxious about this, especially with upgrading to larger tires, I want to gain back what I lost, if weather and time permits, this might even be done by tomorrow

jjdeneen · 09-12-2003, 10:30 PM

that looks like a pretty complicated mod to be tackeling by yourself, you think you will be able to accomplish that by tommorrow .....???

Plays_with_Toys · 09-13-2003, 10:55 AM

You're right... Maybe I should hold off until one of my friend's can help me with the heavy loading.

Plays_with_Toys · 09-13-2003, 02:38 PM

I just drove around for about 45 min to different places getting what I need. First checkers, then to home depot, they didn't have what I needed so I went back to checkers, and they didn't have it either! I would have thought that home depot would carry the longggggg threaded nuts (can't think of the name now), that allow a threaded rod to connect to another length of threaded rod. I am not going to make another 45 min trip to ACE today either. Its about 25 min to get there, and 25 min back, and for one $0.45 piece?

Dang it, I have everything but that one stupid piece, so I won't be able to say until maybe tomorrow, if I can sneak up there before work.

Oh well...

Plays_with_Toys · 09-14-2003, 05:52 PM

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee doggin! Just did the "mod" and I love it! I feel a power improvement but it sounds awesome too! The whole RPM range in the primaries is slightly louder, not too much deeper, but the second you get into the secondaries it gets deeper, and the further you plunge into the secondaries the deeper it gets. I am going to have a friend do a drive by for me because I don't know what it sounds like outside the car, I only know it sounds good inside. This gets a

from me.

If you want to do it yourself, get a 3/8" t valve, it fits into fuel lines, get some 3/8" caps or plug one of the holes by another mean, get about 3-5" of 3/8" fuel line, get a coupler for the carb stud and one M6X1.0 bolt of about an inch, or you can get threaded rod or a stud, just as long as the threading is the same. I had to settle for a 1/4" coupler, but it was a close enough thread pattern that the stud and the bolt locked in. I got a fram air filter, which is slightly larger than my K&N, but thats ok, it allows for the air to kind of tunnel around the base of the airbox, down by my K&N.

If you have any questions, just ask.

HiLux_1990 · 09-15-2003, 04:39 PM

Would it be possible to take some 'before' photos of how your air filter box runs into your carby please?

I have a feeling the metal piece that runs over the top of my 22R is a different design to what you guys seem to have.
I'll take some pics of mine too...

Plays_with_Toys · 09-15-2003, 06:33 PM

I don't have a digicam, or else I would take some pics, but if you look at the pic in the first post you will see the round base with the white sticker on the front of it, If you follow the can around to the right, you will see a clamp around the air intake tube that goes right off the pic, that travels across the headers and down to the side of the driver side light.

The top to the airbox is what you see on top of the stacked filters, its the big metal disk with the wing nut, and it has a blow by tube, I think that is what its for anyway, that comes from the crank case up to it. Basically before the mod, there is no gap between the base and the top, and afterwards there is about a 1" gap.

If you plan to do it, don't hack up that elbow tube like the guy did in that pic, if you plug one end of the T valve into the bend and connect another tube in one of the other holes, cap the extra outlet, then run the tube up to the top piece of the airbox into the metal inlet tube you can reverse the mod if you are unhappy or if you plan to do water crossing or really dusty conditions driving.

So far today it has held up well, it didn't move at all and it definately gave me back what I lost when I inched up my tires. And my friend even noticed the deeper primary tone, and loved the ballsy secondaries.

I just noticed you are from australia, so maybe they do in fact run a different setup. One option that I am considering for later is K&N has a filter that is round and has a conical top that is also filter material. So it makes the airbox top unecessary, and provides that much more air. Also edelbrock, K&N, Holley, and other carburetor/air filter companies make their own tops for the filters, that may be an option for you as well, and then put a breather where the tube comes out the crank case.

HaveBlue · 09-15-2003, 06:48 PM

I have a digicam. PM me with your whereabouts and we can meet up.

I did the same thing on my old Chevy. Finding parts for that was a lot easier though. I actually found a longer stud made by Edelbrock. I just installed a taller air cleaner. If I remember correctly, the old air filter was 2" tall and the new one was 4-5" tall. I added a shiny Edelbrock filter cover (good for 45 hp

). I noticed a 33% drop in mileage. Coincidentally, I noticed my right foot got 33% heavier.

Plays_with_Toys · 09-15-2003, 07:03 PM

I might be able to convince my friend use of his digicam again lol. If I remember right you're quite a ways away for such a pic. Especially with how hack a job it looks with my bright orange fram on type of my dark purple K&N.

I'd do a taller filter, but this way its alot easier to undo it at anytime, just unbolt it, take the tube off, out with one filter and boom, I can take on lake eerie.

then when I am done swimming do the reverse.

Oh I also noticed more of a lead foot, but surprisingly its not sucking down as much gas???

I know I was running slightly rich before, so maybe this has corrected the vacuum or mixture settings? I'll do a mpg next tank. My previous was about 18mpg, if it stays there or goes up, it will be a victory.

joez · 09-15-2003, 07:28 PM

hehe, mavericktoy81 on wild yoats did that a while ago, thats where i got the idea to do it. it helps, but as it said in other posts STAY AWAY FROM WATER!!!!!!! dont even drive in really heavy rain, it soaks the filters and makes a mess. i actually took mine off durring the really heavy rains we had here mid summer, and never put it back on. i had to pull off the road cause the truck would barely run, it was getting water in it, but not enough to kill the old girl. i had stacked k&n's, and them together made a bigger difference (also a more expensive).

Plays_with_Toys · 09-15-2003, 08:38 PM

What about snow? I am thinking I will remove it as winter gets closer, I am afraid of getting moisture in there, and I also think it will take longer for the engine to warm up.

I do love the V6ish sound though, makes it feel/sound like a whole new truck.

mikedog · 09-15-2003, 10:12 PM

I thought about doing that mod but instead did my own version of the "ram air induction" mod.

Here's what I did. I cut into the air-cleaner plastic tube assembly that leads from the (hot air intake valve) to the radiator support area near the radiator. I cut the plastic factory tube right at the area were the "bellows" part begins near the HAI valve on the snorkle.

I then purchased a length of 2.50" PVC black tubing pipe at Home-Depot. I carefully measured and cut a length of 2.50" pipe going straight towards the radiator-core support area, then inserted a 90* PVC "elbow" with another length of 2.50" PVC pipe going straight down towards the bottom of the valence panel below the bumper.

I then took another 90* PVC "elbow" and inserted it into the bottom of the pipe facing forward. I located a square rectangular snorkel-like piece and fit that into the elbow on the bottom to help "scoop" up the air in the front.

The nice thing about this set-up is that you are "forcing" cold outside air (relatively speaking of course) into the air-cleaner instead of hot underhood air from inside the engine compartment. Throttle response is super crisp and I can feel a definite increase in power at mid to high RPMs especially at freeway speeds. This is on a 400k+ original mile engine too! Disable your HAI valve on the air-cleaner for best results!

In fact if you place your hand over the snorkle intake I have below the bumper while I rev my engine, your hand will be "sucked" in towards the intake duct. If you cut the PVC pipe that leads to the "bellows" part of the plastic factory intake tube near the HAI valve just right, all you need to do is push the PVC pipe into the plastic factory snorkle which makes for a perfect fit. No need for additional sealing. It fits right in.

Another benefit to this system is that whenever I need to remove air-cleaner assembly for some reason, I just push on the bellows part on the plastic factory duct to clear the PVC pipe going into it. I always hated unfastening that additional bolt-clamp thing before the HAI valve on the air-cleaner to remove the whole assembly. One less thing to remove to gain access to the carb underneath is always a good thing in my book. LOL!

Napoleon047 · 12-05-2003, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Plays_with_Toys
What about snow? I am thinking I will remove it as winter gets closer, I am afraid of getting moisture in there, and I also think it will take longer for the engine to warm up.

I do love the V6ish sound though, makes it feel/sound like a whole new truck.

dont worry about moisture. lots of vechicles run open airfilters like that all the time w/o any problems. also, your truck will take less time to warm up because now it sucks in warm air from inside your engine compartment versus the cooler outside air

Plays_with_Toys · 12-05-2003, 10:38 PM

I've actually found warm up time to be about the same. I would recommend for anyone that wants to do this, to buy one filter that is taller. I have found the the upper filter, the wire elements began poking through into my K&N. Also, the heat from inside the engine compartment likes to make the filters stick, not only to one another, but to the filter housing.

Also, I would locate threaded rod and use that, if you try what I did, using a coupler and a bolt, you run the risk of loosening the coupler and getting it dropped into the intake part of the carb and down into the manifold.

Oh as far as gas mileage, I didn't notice too much improvement, if any. It seemed like I could get on it more though. It seems like my gas needle drops visually as I floor it. With the filter mod, it didn't seem to drop. I don't know the reasoning for this? I was running a bit rich before, but it may make the carb run leaner than before, but it is still using that same amount of gas, so I don't know why it works that way.

I have it off right now. The truck didn't seem to be running right. It was a little rough. I don't think it was the filters, but I believe they weren't helping the situation. I think it is an ignition issue, and that I need a new distributor cap and rotor. Also, I didn't like the fact that minivans were smoking me at street lights as I tried accelerating with my deep exhaust and them not even trying. I may have gained seat of the pants power (or maybe its all in my head), but that still doesn't get over the underpowered prowess of the toyota 4cyl.

So bottom line:
Worthwhile mod? Eh, if you're bored and want something to do to your truck, or if you want a new exhaust note without getting an exhaust system, or if you like living in the secondaries. Otherwise, you don't need to do it.

HaveBlue · 12-05-2003, 10:50 PM

I was thinking about doing something similar with my 22R. I was thinking about hacking off the end of the "snorkel" on the intake tube and replacing it with some PVC routed down behind the air dam. I still have the K&N cone filter from my 4Runner's FIPK. I could hook that on the end and elminate the air filter in the housing.
I'll have to toy with measurements and such this weekend.

HiLux_1990 · 12-09-2003, 08:26 AM

*bump*

I was wondering if anyone feels like taking some more photos of their aircleaner assembly, in particular the 'snorkel' part?

Thanks
David.

:beach:

jx94148 · 12-09-2003, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by HiLux_1990
Would it be possible to take some 'before' photos of how your air filter box runs into your carby please?

I have a feeling the metal piece that runs over the top of my 22R is a different design to what you guys seem to have.
I'll take some pics of mine too...

That's the best pic I have of my engine. The glove is pointing to the fuel pump. The cold air intake comes from behind the left headlight.

<---- Best describes how I feel about this stacked filter contraption. But to each his own.

HiLux_1990 · 12-09-2003, 11:01 PM

Oh, that's a glove... thought it was one of those fake chickens!

This mod is one of those things I just have to try for myself (it makes a cool noise

) ...also, by swapping to the aircleaner design you guys have it means I can install a dual battery.

jx94148: what's on the opposite corner to your main battery? is there anything there at all?

Thanks.

jx94148 · 12-09-2003, 11:47 PM

There it sort of a T fitting on the cold intake and it connects to a big hollow black box with a little drain hole on the bottom. Its supposed to be able to drain some water from the intake if a little gets in there.

I won't be testing it anytime soon. For deep water crossings I take the intake hose out from behind the headlight and put it on top of the air cleaner pictured. Then I close the hood (you probably call it a bonnet down yonder) :alien: and sort of pinch the hose between the hood and the top of the cleaner to hold it in place till i'm across.

HiLux_1990 · 12-10-2003, 03:50 AM

Ok so it's pretty much just a bunch of useless plastic. Kinda funny how they like to make things so complicated.

My actual airbox sits in that corner and it too has a little hole in the bottom with a metal cup that clips underneath. This metal cup has a very simple one-way rubber valve that is supposed to let any water in the airbox drain out. I filled it up with water to test it out, but during a water crossing you're more likely to get stuff coming in there! some silicon took care of that

:alien: Yep and we call the fender a "front quarter panel".

Serith · 12-10-2003, 10:39 AM

I know this is a stupid question, but...

Is the only thing you did was add a second air filter? (plus the longers bolts and pipe to go along with it) juwst any ordinary air filter, stack it on top? yea sound kind of...scary if you go in too deep of water or slash some up, but maybe i will have to try it.

Plays_with_Toys · 12-10-2003, 12:06 PM

Serith, yeah you just add an extra filter on and extend the carb stud, and a longer tube to the valve cover, however, I wouldn't butcher it like the pic has it done, you can read how i did mine, its much more reversible if you decide its not your thing.

I added a fram on top, I think with more air coming into the K&N it helps, but with more surface area to draw in the air with an extra filter it is even better.

Its only a $10 mod tops, so if you like it keep it, if you need to do water crossings, its easy to reverse at that time. If you don't like it, ditch it, but keep the filter in case you ever need one for whatever reason.

Haveblue, look at what mikedog said about his PVC "cold air induction," I think thats what you were thinking about too.

Also, if you guys are thinking about this purely for the sound, maybe I can get a sound clip of it installed on my truck, so you can hear it. Vote yay or nay on the idea.

HiLux_1990 · 12-11-2003, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Also, if you guys are thinking about this purely for the sound, maybe I can get a sound clip of it installed on my truck, so you can hear it. Vote yay or nay on the idea.

Put my vote down as double-yay!

One for a 'before' sound clip, and one for an 'after' clip of you terrorising the neighbourhood.

:beach:

09-12-2003, 10:11 PM	#3 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	except this allows for more air to be sucked in. I am anxious about this, especially with upgrading to larger tires, I want to gain back what I lost, if weather and time permits, this might even be done by tomorrow __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's

09-12-2003, 10:30 PM	#4 (permalink)
jjdeneen Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Lakewood, CA Posts: 415	that looks like a pretty complicated mod to be tackeling by yourself, you think you will be able to accomplish that by tommorrow .....??? __________________ 1980 Toyota PickUp 4x4. new paint (blue), spray-in bed liner, BFG Mud-Terrains 32x11.5, toyota altimerter/inclinomerter, custom rear tube bumper (badlandbumper.com). WARN manual hubs.

09-13-2003, 10:55 AM	#5 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	You're right... Maybe I should hold off until one of my friend's can help me with the heavy loading. __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's

09-13-2003, 02:38 PM	#6 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	I just drove around for about 45 min to different places getting what I need. First checkers, then to home depot, they didn't have what I needed so I went back to checkers, and they didn't have it either! I would have thought that home depot would carry the longggggg threaded nuts (can't think of the name now), that allow a threaded rod to connect to another length of threaded rod. I am not going to make another 45 min trip to ACE today either. Its about 25 min to get there, and 25 min back, and for one $0.45 piece? Dang it, I have everything but that one stupid piece, so I won't be able to say until maybe tomorrow, if I can sneak up there before work. Oh well... __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's

09-14-2003, 05:52 PM	#7 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee doggin! Just did the "mod" and I love it! I feel a power improvement but it sounds awesome too! The whole RPM range in the primaries is slightly louder, not too much deeper, but the second you get into the secondaries it gets deeper, and the further you plunge into the secondaries the deeper it gets. I am going to have a friend do a drive by for me because I don't know what it sounds like outside the car, I only know it sounds good inside. This gets a from me. If you want to do it yourself, get a 3/8" t valve, it fits into fuel lines, get some 3/8" caps or plug one of the holes by another mean, get about 3-5" of 3/8" fuel line, get a coupler for the carb stud and one M6X1.0 bolt of about an inch, or you can get threaded rod or a stud, just as long as the threading is the same. I had to settle for a 1/4" coupler, but it was a close enough thread pattern that the stud and the bolt locked in. I got a fram air filter, which is slightly larger than my K&N, but thats ok, it allows for the air to kind of tunnel around the base of the airbox, down by my K&N. If you have any questions, just ask. __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's

09-12-2003, 09:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
Chanson88 Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 21	Sounds like when I used to turn the air filter cover upside down on my S-10, it sounded pretty cool but that was about it. But hey who doesn't want their engine to sound cool.

09-15-2003, 04:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
HiLux_1990 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Australia Posts: 147	Would it be possible to take some 'before' photos of how your air filter box runs into your carby please? I have a feeling the metal piece that runs over the top of my 22R is a different design to what you guys seem to have. I'll take some pics of mine too... __________________ 1990 HiLux Xtra-Cab SR5 4WD 4 cylinder (22R), manual trans 160,000kms/99,420miles

09-15-2003, 06:33 PM	#9 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	I don't have a digicam, or else I would take some pics, but if you look at the pic in the first post you will see the round base with the white sticker on the front of it, If you follow the can around to the right, you will see a clamp around the air intake tube that goes right off the pic, that travels across the headers and down to the side of the driver side light. The top to the airbox is what you see on top of the stacked filters, its the big metal disk with the wing nut, and it has a blow by tube, I think that is what its for anyway, that comes from the crank case up to it. Basically before the mod, there is no gap between the base and the top, and afterwards there is about a 1" gap. If you plan to do it, don't hack up that elbow tube like the guy did in that pic, if you plug one end of the T valve into the bend and connect another tube in one of the other holes, cap the extra outlet, then run the tube up to the top piece of the airbox into the metal inlet tube you can reverse the mod if you are unhappy or if you plan to do water crossing or really dusty conditions driving. So far today it has held up well, it didn't move at all and it definately gave me back what I lost when I inched up my tires. And my friend even noticed the deeper primary tone, and loved the ballsy secondaries. I just noticed you are from australia, so maybe they do in fact run a different setup. One option that I am considering for later is K&N has a filter that is round and has a conical top that is also filter material. So it makes the airbox top unecessary, and provides that much more air. Also edelbrock, K&N, Holley, and other carburetor/air filter companies make their own tops for the filters, that may be an option for you as well, and then put a breather where the tube comes out the crank case. __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's Last edited by Plays_with_Toys; 09-15-2003 at 06:39 PM.

09-15-2003, 06:48 PM	#10 (permalink)
HaveBlue Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,667	I have a digicam. PM me with your whereabouts and we can meet up. I did the same thing on my old Chevy. Finding parts for that was a lot easier though. I actually found a longer stud made by Edelbrock. I just installed a taller air cleaner. If I remember correctly, the old air filter was 2" tall and the new one was 4-5" tall. I added a shiny Edelbrock filter cover (good for 45 hp ). I noticed a 33% drop in mileage. Coincidentally, I noticed my right foot got 33% heavier. __________________ Alan *1996 Supercharged 4Runner Limited* Hi Altitude 4Lo A 4WD club for Colorado and surrounding states

09-15-2003, 07:03 PM	#11 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	I might be able to convince my friend use of his digicam again lol. If I remember right you're quite a ways away for such a pic. Especially with how hack a job it looks with my bright orange fram on type of my dark purple K&N. I'd do a taller filter, but this way its alot easier to undo it at anytime, just unbolt it, take the tube off, out with one filter and boom, I can take on lake eerie. then when I am done swimming do the reverse. Oh I also noticed more of a lead foot, but surprisingly its not sucking down as much gas??? I know I was running slightly rich before, so maybe this has corrected the vacuum or mixture settings? I'll do a mpg next tank. My previous was about 18mpg, if it stays there or goes up, it will be a victory. __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's Last edited by Plays_with_Toys; 09-15-2003 at 07:05 PM.

09-15-2003, 07:28 PM	#12 (permalink)
joez Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Elwood, Il Posts: 1,253	hehe, mavericktoy81 on wild yoats did that a while ago, thats where i got the idea to do it. it helps, but as it said in other posts STAY AWAY FROM WATER!!!!!!! dont even drive in really heavy rain, it soaks the filters and makes a mess. i actually took mine off durring the really heavy rains we had here mid summer, and never put it back on. i had to pull off the road cause the truck would barely run, it was getting water in it, but not enough to kill the old girl. i had stacked k&n's, and them together made a bigger difference (also a more expensive). __________________ -Joe Z Chicago 4x4 My Webshots 1985 Toyota 4Runner, 3" Trail Gear rear/ All-Pro front springs, 42x14 IROK's, Allied Rockathons, spool rear/detroit front, 30 spline longs, Dual cases w/4.7, Marlin High steer, lots of other stuff.. 1997 Dodge 2500 4x4, 12valve CTD, not stock.

09-15-2003, 08:38 PM	#13 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	What about snow? I am thinking I will remove it as winter gets closer, I am afraid of getting moisture in there, and I also think it will take longer for the engine to warm up. I do love the V6ish sound though, makes it feel/sound like a whole new truck. __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's

09-15-2003, 10:12 PM	#14 (permalink)
mikedog Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: So. Cal Posts: 176	I thought about doing that mod but instead did my own version of the "ram air induction" mod. Here's what I did. I cut into the air-cleaner plastic tube assembly that leads from the (hot air intake valve) to the radiator support area near the radiator. I cut the plastic factory tube right at the area were the "bellows" part begins near the HAI valve on the snorkle. I then purchased a length of 2.50" PVC black tubing pipe at Home-Depot. I carefully measured and cut a length of 2.50" pipe going straight towards the radiator-core support area, then inserted a 90* PVC "elbow" with another length of 2.50" PVC pipe going straight down towards the bottom of the valence panel below the bumper. I then took another 90* PVC "elbow" and inserted it into the bottom of the pipe facing forward. I located a square rectangular snorkel-like piece and fit that into the elbow on the bottom to help "scoop" up the air in the front. The nice thing about this set-up is that you are "forcing" cold outside air (relatively speaking of course) into the air-cleaner instead of hot underhood air from inside the engine compartment. Throttle response is super crisp and I can feel a definite increase in power at mid to high RPMs especially at freeway speeds. This is on a 400k+ original mile engine too! Disable your HAI valve on the air-cleaner for best results! In fact if you place your hand over the snorkle intake I have below the bumper while I rev my engine, your hand will be "sucked" in towards the intake duct. If you cut the PVC pipe that leads to the "bellows" part of the plastic factory intake tube near the HAI valve just right, all you need to do is push the PVC pipe into the plastic factory snorkle which makes for a perfect fit. No need for additional sealing. It fits right in. Another benefit to this system is that whenever I need to remove air-cleaner assembly for some reason, I just push on the bellows part on the plastic factory duct to clear the PVC pipe going into it. I always hated unfastening that additional bolt-clamp thing before the HAI valve on the air-cleaner to remove the whole assembly. One less thing to remove to gain access to the carb underneath is always a good thing in my book. LOL! __________________ '88 Toyota PU Classic White 4x2 std. cab 22R 4sp. 400k+ original miles Mods: DT header/ FAL 165 /180* stat/ 2.25" catback/ Super Turbo muffler/ V-power NGK's/ CAI/ K&N/ 4x4 valence/ Hella H4 85w-100w/ 10-gauge harness/ SR5 cluster/ digital clock/ intermittent wipers/ glovebox light/ dual horns/ marine grade carpet/ cloth bench seat/ '94 sunvisors/ SR5 rear trim panel/ day-night rearview mirror/ chrome shifter knob/ 20% tint/ bilsteins Coming: V6 brakes/ drilled rotors/ 3.5" lift.

12-05-2003, 10:38 PM	#16 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	I've actually found warm up time to be about the same. I would recommend for anyone that wants to do this, to buy one filter that is taller. I have found the the upper filter, the wire elements began poking through into my K&N. Also, the heat from inside the engine compartment likes to make the filters stick, not only to one another, but to the filter housing. Also, I would locate threaded rod and use that, if you try what I did, using a coupler and a bolt, you run the risk of loosening the coupler and getting it dropped into the intake part of the carb and down into the manifold. Oh as far as gas mileage, I didn't notice too much improvement, if any. It seemed like I could get on it more though. It seems like my gas needle drops visually as I floor it. With the filter mod, it didn't seem to drop. I don't know the reasoning for this? I was running a bit rich before, but it may make the carb run leaner than before, but it is still using that same amount of gas, so I don't know why it works that way. I have it off right now. The truck didn't seem to be running right. It was a little rough. I don't think it was the filters, but I believe they weren't helping the situation. I think it is an ignition issue, and that I need a new distributor cap and rotor. Also, I didn't like the fact that minivans were smoking me at street lights as I tried accelerating with my deep exhaust and them not even trying. I may have gained seat of the pants power (or maybe its all in my head), but that still doesn't get over the underpowered prowess of the toyota 4cyl. So bottom line: Worthwhile mod? Eh, if you're bored and want something to do to your truck, or if you want a new exhaust note without getting an exhaust system, or if you like living in the secondaries. Otherwise, you don't need to do it. __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's

12-05-2003, 10:50 PM	#17 (permalink)
HaveBlue Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,667	I was thinking about doing something similar with my 22R. I was thinking about hacking off the end of the "snorkel" on the intake tube and replacing it with some PVC routed down behind the air dam. I still have the K&N cone filter from my 4Runner's FIPK. I could hook that on the end and elminate the air filter in the housing. I'll have to toy with measurements and such this weekend. __________________ Alan *1996 Supercharged 4Runner Limited* Hi Altitude 4Lo A 4WD club for Colorado and surrounding states

12-09-2003, 08:26 AM	#18 (permalink)
HiLux_1990 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Australia Posts: 147	bump I was wondering if anyone feels like taking some more photos of their aircleaner assembly, in particular the 'snorkel' part? Thanks David. :beach: __________________ 1990 HiLux Xtra-Cab SR5 4WD 4 cylinder (22R), manual trans 160,000kms/99,420miles

12-09-2003, 11:01 PM	#20 (permalink)
HiLux_1990 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Australia Posts: 147	Oh, that's a glove... thought it was one of those fake chickens! This mod is one of those things I just have to try for myself (it makes a cool noise ) ...also, by swapping to the aircleaner design you guys have it means I can install a dual battery. jx94148: what's on the opposite corner to your main battery? is there anything there at all? Thanks. __________________ 1990 HiLux Xtra-Cab SR5 4WD 4 cylinder (22R), manual trans 160,000kms/99,420miles

12-09-2003, 11:47 PM	#21 (permalink)
jx94148 Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 2,617	There it sort of a T fitting on the cold intake and it connects to a big hollow black box with a little drain hole on the bottom. Its supposed to be able to drain some water from the intake if a little gets in there. I won't be testing it anytime soon. For deep water crossings I take the intake hose out from behind the headlight and put it on top of the air cleaner pictured. Then I close the hood (you probably call it a bonnet down yonder) :alien: and sort of pinch the hose between the hood and the top of the cleaner to hold it in place till i'm across.

12-10-2003, 03:50 AM	#22 (permalink)
HiLux_1990 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Australia Posts: 147	Ok so it's pretty much just a bunch of useless plastic. Kinda funny how they like to make things so complicated. My actual airbox sits in that corner and it too has a little hole in the bottom with a metal cup that clips underneath. This metal cup has a very simple one-way rubber valve that is supposed to let any water in the airbox drain out. I filled it up with water to test it out, but during a water crossing you're more likely to get stuff coming in there! some silicon took care of that :alien: Yep and we call the fender a "front quarter panel". __________________ 1990 HiLux Xtra-Cab SR5 4WD 4 cylinder (22R), manual trans 160,000kms/99,420miles

12-10-2003, 10:39 AM	#23 (permalink)
Serith Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Duvall, WA Posts: 150	I know this is a stupid question, but... Is the only thing you did was add a second air filter? (plus the longers bolts and pipe to go along with it) juwst any ordinary air filter, stack it on top? yea sound kind of...scary if you go in too deep of water or slash some up, but maybe i will have to try it. __________________ 83' toyota pickup 35" swampers, detroit lockers front/rear. All-Pro 5" springs front/rear ~While each situation presents us with many obstacles, we humans find ways around them and persevere. The unknown, while uncomfortable at times, provides us with the most satisfying rewards after the day is done~

12-10-2003, 12:06 PM	#24 (permalink)
Plays_with_Toys Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 1,572	Serith, yeah you just add an extra filter on and extend the carb stud, and a longer tube to the valve cover, however, I wouldn't butcher it like the pic has it done, you can read how i did mine, its much more reversible if you decide its not your thing. I added a fram on top, I think with more air coming into the K&N it helps, but with more surface area to draw in the air with an extra filter it is even better. Its only a $10 mod tops, so if you like it keep it, if you need to do water crossings, its easy to reverse at that time. If you don't like it, ditch it, but keep the filter in case you ever need one for whatever reason. Haveblue, look at what mikedog said about his PVC "cold air induction," I think thats what you were thinking about too. Also, if you guys are thinking about this purely for the sound, maybe I can get a sound clip of it installed on my truck, so you can hear it. Vote yay or nay on the idea. __________________ 1987 Xtra Cab (4x4) - (SOLD) 22r, Rancho RS 5000, 15x8 American Racing AR-23s w/ 31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T's, 2.25" exhaust w/ 23 1/8" glasspack, Explorer Pro Comp Prerunner bar/ Hella 500's Last edited by Plays_with_Toys; 12-10-2003 at 12:07 PM.

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