Another Timing Chain......Damn
#1
Another Timing Chain......Damn
Well I finally pulled the valve cover and the timing chain was broke. The chain was still on the top sprocket but the guides (I think) were toast.
I tried to wiggle the valves to check for clearance and most of them I can't budge. The first Valve on the left (furthest from fire wall) appears to be broken and 2 of the cam lobes are shiny (Does this mean the valves were too tight?)
Anyways - My next step is going to be to (attempt) to remove the head. I will use the search function and review tech write ups to see how this is done.
I have several questions
1. With the valves being so tight does that mean they are all bent?
2. If the valves did get bent did they mess up my cam shaft?
3. Will I be able to tell if the pistons are damage by visually inspecting them after pulling the head?
4. If the pistons are damaged - do I need to pull the Motor to replace them.
Also, This is the truck I have in the classifieds if anyone is wondering.
as usual thanks for your advice.
I tried to wiggle the valves to check for clearance and most of them I can't budge. The first Valve on the left (furthest from fire wall) appears to be broken and 2 of the cam lobes are shiny (Does this mean the valves were too tight?)
Anyways - My next step is going to be to (attempt) to remove the head. I will use the search function and review tech write ups to see how this is done.
I have several questions
1. With the valves being so tight does that mean they are all bent?
2. If the valves did get bent did they mess up my cam shaft?
3. Will I be able to tell if the pistons are damage by visually inspecting them after pulling the head?
4. If the pistons are damaged - do I need to pull the Motor to replace them.
Also, This is the truck I have in the classifieds if anyone is wondering.
as usual thanks for your advice.
#2
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1: Hard to say for sure, but most likely yes.
2: Probbably not. Once valves are bent they will be unable to return to the fully seated position, thereby reducing (or negating alltogether) the load transmitted through the rocker to the cam.
3: To an extent, yes. Valve contact will be obvious. Wristpin damage (due to aluminum being softer than the steel connectiong rods that were pushing against it when valve contact was made) may not be quite so easy to determine.
4: No. Engine removal is not neccessary for replacement of internal components....... But it's SOOOOOOOooooo much easier doing it on an engine stand.
2: Probbably not. Once valves are bent they will be unable to return to the fully seated position, thereby reducing (or negating alltogether) the load transmitted through the rocker to the cam.
3: To an extent, yes. Valve contact will be obvious. Wristpin damage (due to aluminum being softer than the steel connectiong rods that were pushing against it when valve contact was made) may not be quite so easy to determine.
4: No. Engine removal is not neccessary for replacement of internal components....... But it's SOOOOOOOooooo much easier doing it on an engine stand.
#4
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not much to it. 22R is easier since you don't have as much stuff to unplug, but they're both pretty easy. the hardest part is getting the top two tranny bolts out, since they're hard to reach. swivel extensions and socket u-joints are your friend
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Originally Posted by kyle_22r
not much to it. 22R is easier since you don't have as much stuff to unplug, but they're both pretty easy. the hardest part is getting the top two tranny bolts out, since they're hard to reach. swivel extensions and socket u-joints are your friend
#6
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the problem with toyotas is that they don't have a removable core support like most american cars and trucks, so you'd have to get one crazy angle to get the engine/tranny out. my 22R barely squeezed into my truck...it rubbed on the heater hoses getting it in.
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GreatLakesGuy
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09-04-2015 09:27 AM