turboale

Ok, got most of the alarm in yesterday... I hate best buy, long story but I HAD to get it installed there... anyway, they got the remote start working fine and the alarm works, the onlything they haven't finished is the door locks. But my question is, is that when the truck is cold, the alarm doesn't allow enough time for the engine to crank. When its warm, it lights up no problem. Is there any way to adjust the crank time on the Clifford RS3? Thanks cebby, I can go ahead and thank you!

Thanks!

turboale

Ok, got the "advanced" booklet and got a hold of all the "menus" and such. That has all the options of the alarm, one of which is... you guessed it! Crank time! Wahoo... The guy at best buy (when it wasn't cranking b/c it was cold) was sitting there like a monkey doing a math problem and just trying to start it and turning it off... over and over again, and finally my friend was like I'm sure we can figure it out, and we were on our way... and the funny thing is that he was making fun of stupid people that come in and ask if they install stereos... what an idiot... anyway, I'll be sure to post up if I have any problems.

Waterboy

Does your alarm have any form of monitoring engine RPM. Clifford is a pretty good brand so I'd think they should. The only problem with just turning up the cranking time is that if you do start the vehicle warm now the starter will be turning over for the additional time. I just installed an alarm in my truck two weeks ago and mine had a wire that you could wrap around any of the spark plug wires or the coil wire and the noise coming off of the wires was enough for the alarm to know that then engine had started. Is best buy going to hook your door locks up for you or are you going to do it yourself? I had problems with this, on my schematic it showed the lock and unlock wires as blue/white and blue/yellow. But after blowing one of the chips on the board I tore my door apart and found out that those are part of the power window circuit. The correct wires that are needed are red/white and red/blue. Basically the alarm had 12V shorted into the lock output when I armed the alarm. After I opened up the alarm and brought it in to work it turned out that I had blown a darlington pair transistor on the board and was able to solder a new one in. Every thing worked fine after that but I just don't want any one else to have to go throuh what I did. By the way this was on a 2nd gen, I'm not sure if the wire colors would be the same for other generations.

2001Millrunner

just a question, why would you need a remote starter? im not trying to be rude or anything but i just want to know why

AznSky

Cuz it's coooooool!!!!

Haha well it's advertised for during either extreme cold conditions ( you can warm up your car and warm up the inside) or for extreme hot conditions (you can cool down the inside)

Or you can just show it off to everybody

Duffdog

first off---

ask the installer if he hooked up the tach sensor or just did voltage sense-- you might want tach instead , so tha the engine actually starts.

the lock and unlock wires are there, however, if they cant figure it out, thats because lock is one pulse and unlock is double pulse. make sure to hold the door pin shut when checking for unlock. I dont remember the wires, but www.the12volt.com should have all that crap available.

Tim

Cebby

For the cold/hot starting, there needs to be a wire wrapped around the one of the coil wires. It just dawned on me that you have a different coil setup than me. Anyway, here's the hack job the place did on mine (wrapped and taped only) I'll be fixing this sometime...



Increasing the crank time should be OK. The use of a current sensing wire out at the coil is to stop the starter from cranking once it turns over. It won't keep cranking as long as the coil wire is hooked up properly. Again, not sure how this is done on the 3rd Gens since you have the individual coil packs instead of the single coil like the ol' 2nd Gens.