Aftermarket Intake and Running Lean?
#1
Aftermarket Intake and Running Lean?
Hi, I am complete newbie when it comes to Toyota trucks...I had a Subaru STi before, so a bit of a different car, but a lot of similar technology.
I noticed on my used 2002 Tacoma that the previous owner did a hack-job on the intake (not deckplate mod), and I am convinced that the hack job is hurting my fuel economy substantially.
I decided to take the opportunity to get an aftermarket intake, and after a lot of research, ended up going with the Outlaw Power Intake. Was really impressed with the engineering they at least said went into its design. I recently found out that the intake diameter was increased...which from a subaru I was always told was a big no no for the possibility of running lean. Is this a problem with the yota too?
I noticed the MAF has a tapered inlet, so possibly this taper is what controls the diameter to get an accurate reading????
If not, is it also OK to do the MAF mod without having any fuel management?
I noticed on my used 2002 Tacoma that the previous owner did a hack-job on the intake (not deckplate mod), and I am convinced that the hack job is hurting my fuel economy substantially.
I decided to take the opportunity to get an aftermarket intake, and after a lot of research, ended up going with the Outlaw Power Intake. Was really impressed with the engineering they at least said went into its design. I recently found out that the intake diameter was increased...which from a subaru I was always told was a big no no for the possibility of running lean. Is this a problem with the yota too?
I noticed the MAF has a tapered inlet, so possibly this taper is what controls the diameter to get an accurate reading????
If not, is it also OK to do the MAF mod without having any fuel management?
#3
Registered User
I noticed the MAF has a tapered inlet, so possibly this taper is what controls the diameter to get an accurate reading????
...is it also OK to do the MAF mod without having any fuel management?
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Fuel.htm#Free%20FMU:
And, which MAF mod are you talking about? The one where folks are hacking up the MAF, or installing a Supra MAF? If you're hacking up the MAF, then the hack is to the back side of the MAF - the airflow metering won't be affected.
If you're talking about the Supra replacement, then the element in the Surpa MAF is tuned for that MAF - it works fine.
#4
It should be noted that my mpg dropped by 2 (15.5mpg on average) with the Free FMU mod "installed" on my rig. You know the saying, "There is no such thing as a free lunch."
I have since reversed the mod thanks to Mark's injectors and am enjoying a steady 17.5 mpg.
I have since reversed the mod thanks to Mark's injectors and am enjoying a steady 17.5 mpg.
#7
Registered User
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#8
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OK. So the tacoma will only run lean or rich if something is wrong...
With my old Subaru STi, they come pretty dang lean from the factory...so confusing the computer and by adding more air when it thinks it's the same amount caused issues. Sounds like it won't be a problem with the Tacoma. It is weird coming from a very tempermental turbo charged four banger...it just makes you very cautious about making changes to your setup.
With my old Subaru STi, they come pretty dang lean from the factory...so confusing the computer and by adding more air when it thinks it's the same amount caused issues. Sounds like it won't be a problem with the Tacoma. It is weird coming from a very tempermental turbo charged four banger...it just makes you very cautious about making changes to your setup.
#14
Registered User
We're talking about the 3.4L engine, right? Any specific year?
In general the ECUs that drive the 3.4's are quite good at keeping the engine to running at Stoich. It may take some time for the ECU to settle in after a reset, but it's usually closely dialed in after 200 miles or so.
Where things will go south is if you run the truck outside of it's normal operating range, things like high RPM no load (reving the engine while running downhill), low RPM high low (chugging up a mountain towing a trailer), hard accleration, etc. During those times, the ECU will be running in an area of the fuel maps that haven't gotten any attention - so, the stored trim values will be 0 and as such the engine will _temporarily_ run rich or lean. The ECU will "immediately" correct for it, but the correction won't be exact until the engine has spent "some time" in that zone.
This is why it's recommended that you run the truck under all sorts of conditions, so that the the ECU can see a larger portion of the fuel map and thus compute more correction values.
In general the ECUs that drive the 3.4's are quite good at keeping the engine to running at Stoich. It may take some time for the ECU to settle in after a reset, but it's usually closely dialed in after 200 miles or so.
Where things will go south is if you run the truck outside of it's normal operating range, things like high RPM no load (reving the engine while running downhill), low RPM high low (chugging up a mountain towing a trailer), hard accleration, etc. During those times, the ECU will be running in an area of the fuel maps that haven't gotten any attention - so, the stored trim values will be 0 and as such the engine will _temporarily_ run rich or lean. The ECU will "immediately" correct for it, but the correction won't be exact until the engine has spent "some time" in that zone.
This is why it's recommended that you run the truck under all sorts of conditions, so that the the ECU can see a larger portion of the fuel map and thus compute more correction values.
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