98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: This thread is really now a motor swap thread. Original post below. I got some coolant into the crank case and fouled the oil pump. Ran the motor, and now it's got a bad knock. I picked one up today and am doing a swap. I'm going to put up a bunch of pictures along the way, and may have some questions as things progress. Thanks for reading!

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I tried to do this today, and just finished a short while ago. I replaced all of mine with GB Reman injectors. I followed this thread, which has some great pictures and advice: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/f...89/index2.html

Now my engine won't turn over. I've tried about 15 times over the last couple of hours to crank it and it never really quite gets to turning over.

My battery is a little low because my car has been sitting for about a week. I've got it on the charger...Could this be a problem?

Anybody have any advice on this? I didn't check the resistance of the new injectors before putting them in, but even if one of the Remans was bad, the engine should still turn over and throw a code, right?

I've never done this job before, so I tried to make sure everything was right. I've double and triple checked for hoses, plugs, anything not hooked back up, and I can't find anything amiss.

Can anybody offer advice?

rworegon

To clarify: the starter engages, and the engine spins, but does not start up?
Give it a try after charging the battery. It does take a few seconds for the fuel to get back up to the injectors.

The ground wire are attached on the engine?

I'd pull the EFI fuse for a minute to reset the ECU too.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the starter engages and motor and fans spin, but no turn-over. I just tried starting it a few minutes ago and the starter is firing, with good power from the battery. It's trying it's hardest to breathe life into the motor, but nothing doing, just the starter firing.

Ground wire is attached on the plenum. I didn't mess with the other grounds on the engine, so I'm sure they're still in place. I pulled the EFI fuse for a couple of minutes also. Didn't make a difference.

EDIT: I'm going to pull it apart again tomorrow and check the injectors, and make sure it's all good. If I don't find some issue and it doesn't work when I put it back together, all I can think is that it's the fuel pump maybe. Any tips on how to check/replace it?

J2F42C

What was wrong with the old ones?

Getting spark to all coils?

Make sure the battery is at least 12.2v to fire it up.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

It started running rough on a recent 2-hour drive. It steadily got worse. Threw a CEL and at first it it was p0102, p0103, p0104. I cleared the codes and waited a while. After that, started it back up and it continued to run rough and threw p0102. Cleared it again, and later it threw just the same p0102 again.

At that point, I figured it probably injector number 2. Sure enough, number 2 injector had about .260 Ohms resistance, way out of spec. Other people said they have had good luck with the GB Remans, and since 6 of them were just a little more than one OEM injector, I figured I'd do them all.

I haven't tested for spark, but I did plugs and wires about 2000 miles ago, all denso/ngk.

Prior to recent startup attempt, battery showed 12.5v, and the starter sounded like it had more juice and was pumping to get the engine to turn over.

All I can think is fuel pump. Is there a sticker or something stupid like that on the bottom of the injectors that I missed? They came in little plastic bags individually. Admittedly, I didn't examine them really closely, but I feel like I would have seen anything on them.

I've never done this job before, so I guess something could be amiss with what I did. The fuel rails snapped back on to the injectors more easily than they came off, and they bolted right back in, so I don't think they're loose.

I've double and triple checked all the wiring harnesses and vacuum lines. Unless I overlooked something, I don't think it's that. I'll check again tomorrow, of course.

It's damn disappointing after 6 new injectors to be in a worse position, where the truck won't even crank. At least before I could move it if I needed.

Thanks for the advice/inquiries so far. I'll perform any tests/tricks ya'll might recommend.

rworegon

Check the EFI fuse.
Have you pulled a spark plug and smelled for fuel?
Do you still have the original injectors?

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

EFI fuse was fine. Pulled it for a minute or so, made no difference. Have not pulled spark plugs to smell for fuel.

I do still have the original injectors. I'm going to tear it back apart tomorrow and check the resistance of the reman injectors I installed. I'll check the spark plug as well.

J2F42C

If the CEL is still on, I'd check the MAF. Those OBDii codes are indicative of a MAF that has bought the farm and needs to be replaced more than likely. I have always found that P300 and similar codes are thrown when there is a faulty injector.

Why the injector ohmed out of spec I do not know.

I'd personally be more willing to pack up the old OEM injectors and send then off to www.witchunter.com for three days for bench testing and cleaning. You can read on their website where the stuff coming out of China is suspect at best.

I think that there was a guy on T4R who replaced his injectors (all six) with some non OEM brand and they made his 4runner run like crap. He had one that had gone south on him. Ultimately he replaced the original bad one with a remaned Beck Arnley, put the other old five back in and was good to go.

Good luck.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

CEL is not still on, but the car won't start either. Not reading any CEL with key in and electronics on, so I guess there's no CEL.

I sprayed out the MAF before putting the intake tube back on the throttle body and airbox. I guess this could have been the problem...Any tips on how to check the MAF?

Hmm. I guess that puts me in a tough spot if you really think it might be one of the GB Reman injectors. Is resistance testing the injectors enough to really test them? I feel like if it were crappy Reman injectors or the MAF, it would at least turn over, and just run rough a throw a code, right?

Also, when I try to start the car and it never turns over, I can smell gas as I get closer to the rear of the car. Not sure what this could mean, if anything.

I just graduated from grad school and don't have a lot of money right now, so I don't really have the option to go buy new OEM injectors and replace them all. I guess I could swap back in some of the originals that ohm tested fine. Not having a car doesn't make job hunting any easier.

Pesky 4Runner problems make Jack a dull boy.

Nonetheless, many thanks for your advice!

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

Just pulled it apart again. All new injectors read around 13.5 Ohms, so I think they're good. I rotated them in place, under the rails, and they rotate fine, so I think the seals are good and they're locked in.

I can see and smell fuel at the injectors. I guess this would mean that there's fuel getting to the injectors so I need to check my spark somewhere? I feel like if it was a coil or a spark plug, the motor would still turn over, it'd just run rough and throw a code.

Is there any easier way to test for spark than to pull the plugs and ground them? I'm alone at the house today, so I don't have a buddy to start the car when I ground the plugs.

J2F42C

If you are smelling gas out of the exhaust, I am wondering if the new injectors are not causing the engine to flood? I take it that you never smelled gas before installing the new injectors?

I have the FSM at home, and will post on how to test the MAF later.

If push comes to shove, call the Lex Tech folks over on Folly and see if one of them will come by after hours.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

I'm not totally certain it's only at the back. I see gas on the injectors now that I've got it pulled apart again. I've never done this job before, so I don't have any frame of reference about gas being on the injectors before/after.

My roommate is far more mechanically inclined than I am, and he seems to think it could be the fuel pump, but he's been wrong before and tends to jump to conclusions without really going through all the testing steps. I have AAA, and can get it towed for free over to the dealership if all else fails. I just have to get the money to pay for it first, lol.

I'm going back out to the driveway to put it back together, hopefully something will work this time that wasn't before.

J2F42C

Here you go for MAF testing:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...if-maf-ok.html

If your fuel pump was bad (aka dead), then how could you be smelling gas?

Double check all the connections.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

I just got it all back together, unfortunately, same result - starter, but no turn-over.

Yeah, that makes sense that if I'm smelling fuel, it's pumping something. Is it possible that it's not pumping enough? Can a failing fuel pump ruin an injector?

Thank you for the MAF test link! I'm going to go back out now and give that a shot! I'd think if it was the MAF, that it'd turn over, but run rough, instead of not turning over at all. We'll see. I'll update after testing.

J2F42C

Make any progress overnight?

NC_Tech007

Do you hear the fuel pump priming/pumping at all, if you have it off and turn it to position 2, but don't actually start it?

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so I got the initial problem worked out, but bad news now.

After taking it apart and putting it back together several times, a buddy of mine noticed on the final re-assembly that we mixed up the coolant and vacuum lines that go into the bottom of the throttle body. Actually, I labeled them wrong when taking them apart, so it took us a while to figure it out. (I know, I know, I'm an idiot) We put it back together, and it took several tries, but finally turned over.

I thought I was in the clear now. No such luck. I guess throughout attempting to get it to crank, we pumped some coolant into the motor. After driving for a short while when we got it back together, the oil pressure light came on, and the engine shut off.

I coasted back home, got it in the driveway, pulled the dipstick and cap and saw white foamy stuff, which I assume is coolant. The engine was running a little rough, so I was hoping nothing serious happened to it during the short drive after getting it back together.

So, this morning I go get some fresh oil, enough to do two changes, to flush out all the coolant. I changed the oil and the filter and put in some cheaper oil just to run for a little while and change again. So, I drive around with new oil, and it seems to run okay, but still sounds off. Then, motor cuts off. I coast back to the driveway, pull the oil plug and filter and -- ˟˟˟˟˟˟ me, there's no oil in the filter.

I don't know what this means, but it doesn't look/sound good. Now I'm cursing myself for screwing up and imagining the dollar signs in my head, of how much it's going to cost to get this thing going again, if it's even worth it.

Despite all of that, I thank those of you that have posted with information/advice thus far.

I'm hoping that maybe something small got fouled up when coolant was running through it. Or, maybe the same for the oil pump. At this point, whatever the likely culprit, it doesn't seem like it'll be something I'm capable of fixing. Probably going to have to get it towed to the stealership.

J2F42C

No oil then showing on the dipstick?

If you have oil, I'd try and turn the engine over either with a 19mm socket or crank it over such as doing a compression test. If the engine does not move, then it may be locked, and yea, a used engine is in your future. But I'm no ASE mechanic, so I am just speculating here.

Good luck and keep posting.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

The fresh oil I put in showed on the dipstick. It just didn't seem to be circulating through the oil filter or fully through the motor. It'll still crank, so I'm hoping it's not locked up.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

Just got the call from the stealership. They say there's a bad knock in the bottom end of the motor and it's toast.

The guy quoted me at $7000+ to get a remanned motor put in.

I've put a lot of money into this car over the years. I just graduated from grad school and have little money, and lots of loans. I was hoping to keep my 4Runner until 300K+ miles. This sucks. Hard lesson learned.

Thanks to those that offered help along the way, from the ISR/deckplate, to the lift, to the power inverter, and more. I've really enjoyed this car and learning how to work on it.