After Deck Plate and ISR
08-25-2003, 09:53 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After Deck Plate and ISR
After doing these mods on my '03 Tacoma (Prerunner 4x2) WITHOUT pulling the EFI fuse I have noticed a lot of power. When Im stopped at a stop sign and turningI cannot accelerate too hard or I just fishtail. Before doing the mods I was never able to skid. After I did the ISR I removed the deck plate and went for a ride and thats when I noticed the great power gain. I am wondering if all the skidding is not good for my truck!?! Anyways thanks guys for info on these mods! They really do work! PS Im soon to get an amsoil to put with the deck plate...cant wait!!!
Oh yeah! also, I live on the ocean and have not heard "pinging" yet. Is this normal???
Oh yeah! also, I live on the ocean and have not heard "pinging" yet. Is this normal???
Last edited by coolerthanice; 08-25-2003 at 10:22 PM.
08-26-2003, 01:21 AM
#2
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
coolerthanice:
Welcome to the board
I'm glad to see that you've found good use out of the tech sections
Prepare your wallet, my friend - it will never be the same.
There are several Amsoil dealers around here but I've had some business interactions with Bob (Bob_98SR5), one of the moderators, and have nothing but good things to say
Welcome to the board
I'm glad to see that you've found good use out of the tech sections
Prepare your wallet, my friend - it will never be the same.
There are several Amsoil dealers around here but I've had some business interactions with Bob (Bob_98SR5), one of the moderators, and have nothing but good things to say
08-26-2003, 06:03 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,878
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've noticed the same thing but I only removed the air filter elbow & changed to a performance muffler. With or without the Amsoil filter, the tire(s) will squeal if I slam it down a bit while making a right turn.
The "lack of pinging" is a good thing and is very normal (in a good way). You can't always hear pinging though, so your engine has knock sensors & will let you know (via dash lights) if there is a problem.
The "lack of pinging" is a good thing and is very normal (in a good way). You can't always hear pinging though, so your engine has knock sensors & will let you know (via dash lights) if there is a problem.
Last edited by HBoss; 08-26-2003 at 08:09 AM.
08-26-2003, 08:12 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Daly City, CA
Posts: 900
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
welcome to the board coolerthanice ... the deckplate and ISR mods did help out a lot ... just watch your gas gauge droop because you like the sound and the extra power ... hehe 
08-26-2003, 09:35 AM
#7
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by HBoss
I've noticed the same thing but I only removed the air filter elbow & changed to a performance muffler. With or without the Amsoil filter, the tire(s) will squeal if I slam it down a bit while making a right turn.
The "lack of pinging" is a good thing and is very normal (in a good way). You can't always hear pinging though, so your engine has knock sensors & will let you know (via dash lights) if there is a problem.
I've noticed the same thing but I only removed the air filter elbow & changed to a performance muffler. With or without the Amsoil filter, the tire(s) will squeal if I slam it down a bit while making a right turn.
The "lack of pinging" is a good thing and is very normal (in a good way). You can't always hear pinging though, so your engine has knock sensors & will let you know (via dash lights) if there is a problem.
Not to question you cause you'll know more about this than I.
I'm only curious because I've had my deckplate and ISR setup for a few months now and while listening VERY carefully last weekend I thought I heard some metallic crackling beyond the ending noise. I haven't had any dash lights flash so should I assume I'm okay?
Once I'm done with this tank I'm going to fill up with supreme (oh man!) and check again.
Trending Topics
08-26-2003, 09:49 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,878
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey TD,
I just mean that you can't always hear an engine pinging, even when it is. Drivers with untrained ears don't know what to listen for. And even those who know what it sounds like sometimes have difficulty hearing light pinging, especially if they have loud intake/exhaust mods. I've moved to 89 octane because I get slight pinging between 2500rpm - 3500rpm when I floor it using 87 octane fuel.
Pinging generally only occurs under load. It doesn't often occur when you're idling. So if you floor it and hear pinging/engine knocking, move up one grade of fuel & repeat the test. If that cures it, stick with it. If not, then move to premium & repeat the test. If the check engine light comes on due to engine knock, it's probably already done some damage, or is close to that point. Perhaps I should have mentioned that earlier...
Remember to test with about a half a tank of gas in. This should have allowed appropriate time for the previous tank to be used up first, providing you drove it to near empty before filling up again.
Hope that clarifies.. Clear as mud?
Al
I just mean that you can't always hear an engine pinging, even when it is. Drivers with untrained ears don't know what to listen for. And even those who know what it sounds like sometimes have difficulty hearing light pinging, especially if they have loud intake/exhaust mods. I've moved to 89 octane because I get slight pinging between 2500rpm - 3500rpm when I floor it using 87 octane fuel.
Pinging generally only occurs under load. It doesn't often occur when you're idling. So if you floor it and hear pinging/engine knocking, move up one grade of fuel & repeat the test. If that cures it, stick with it. If not, then move to premium & repeat the test. If the check engine light comes on due to engine knock, it's probably already done some damage, or is close to that point. Perhaps I should have mentioned that earlier...
Remember to test with about a half a tank of gas in. This should have allowed appropriate time for the previous tank to be used up first, providing you drove it to near empty before filling up again.
Hope that clarifies.. Clear as mud?
Al
08-26-2003, 10:09 AM
#9
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I was trying to listen for it while messing with the throttle. I'll be taking the gas down to the warning light and filling up with mid-grade and seeing if I can hear the same sound again.
Thanks for the info!
Clear as mud!
Thanks for the info!
Clear as mud!
08-26-2003, 05:45 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,878
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll try to keep this short, but I'm not very good at that. 
I wouldn't worry about silent pinging. If you floor it and hear a really light clunking coming from your engine, then try upping the octane level you're using. If you don't hear the clunking, don't worry about it.
Pinging is caused by predetonating. In other words, the fuel and air mixture being ignited in your cylinders w/o the spark first coming from the sparkplug.
Your engine takes in fuel & air and compresses it. This compression increases the temperature in the cylinder a lot. If it increases it too much and it gets too hot in there, the fuel will ignite on its own, causing the piston to move too soon and out of firing order. This can cause damage to your engine.
A higher octane fuel resists predetonation better. It's usually required in some performance cars because they run high compression ratios. As previously-mentioned, compressing the fuel/air increases its temperature.
High compression ratio = hotter in there = need higher octane.
In the situation of a 4Runner engine, requiring only 87 octane: If you modify it so as to allow more air in, your computer will also inject more fuel into the chamber before combustion. Because there's now more fuel AND more air in the same space, the temperature will be higher than normal when compression occurs. This increase in temperature may cause predetonation and therefore the need for higher octane to make it stop.
I wouldn't worry about silent pinging. If you floor it and hear a really light clunking coming from your engine, then try upping the octane level you're using. If you don't hear the clunking, don't worry about it.
Pinging is caused by predetonating. In other words, the fuel and air mixture being ignited in your cylinders w/o the spark first coming from the sparkplug.
Your engine takes in fuel & air and compresses it. This compression increases the temperature in the cylinder a lot. If it increases it too much and it gets too hot in there, the fuel will ignite on its own, causing the piston to move too soon and out of firing order. This can cause damage to your engine.
A higher octane fuel resists predetonation better. It's usually required in some performance cars because they run high compression ratios. As previously-mentioned, compressing the fuel/air increases its temperature.
High compression ratio = hotter in there = need higher octane.
In the situation of a 4Runner engine, requiring only 87 octane: If you modify it so as to allow more air in, your computer will also inject more fuel into the chamber before combustion. Because there's now more fuel AND more air in the same space, the temperature will be higher than normal when compression occurs. This increase in temperature may cause predetonation and therefore the need for higher octane to make it stop.
08-27-2003, 09:17 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Deckplate & ISR modifications?
Being new to doing potential modifications to my 4Runner, can someone provide me a link to detailed instructions for doing the deckplate modification?
Also, what is the ISR modification, and where can I find instructions on that?
Also, what is the ISR modification, and where can I find instructions on that?
08-27-2003, 09:29 PM
#15
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check out the tech section
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/techpage.htm
Everything you want will be right there.
If you have any questions you can contact the author of the write up or post your question here.
Chances are people will jump to help you out!
Deckplate and ISR mod are AWESOME!
Oh yeah, welcome!
I've been here like 1/2 a year and have learned a LOT in that time
Guys here are excellent and cool with answering stupid questions (at least with all of mine )
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/techpage.htm
Everything you want will be right there.
If you have any questions you can contact the author of the write up or post your question here.
Chances are people will jump to help you out!
Deckplate and ISR mod are AWESOME!
Oh yeah, welcome!
I've been here like 1/2 a year and have learned a LOT in that time
Guys here are excellent and cool with answering stupid questions (at least with all of mine
)
08-28-2003, 08:27 PM
#17
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Up to personal preference really.
Deckplate you have the option of making the air intake as water resistant as it was before but it's an obvious modification.
Elbow removal is a permanent hole with no quick fix for sealing but it's hidden from view and not commonly looked for.
Pick and choose, you'll end up with the same power increase/advantage just a different appearance.
The ISR mod is cool
I'm anxious to see the update from Christian, <96runner>, with his newest mod
Deckplate you have the option of making the air intake as water resistant as it was before but it's an obvious modification.
Elbow removal is a permanent hole with no quick fix for sealing but it's hidden from view and not commonly looked for.
Pick and choose, you'll end up with the same power increase/advantage just a different appearance.
The ISR mod is cool
I'm anxious to see the update from Christian, <96runner>, with his newest mod
08-29-2003, 04:59 AM
#18
Contributing Member
Originally posted by Tacoma Dude
Up to personal preference really.
Deckplate you have the option of making the air intake as water resistant as it was before but it's an obvious modification.
Elbow removal is a permanent hole with no quick fix for sealing but it's hidden from view and not commonly looked for.
Pick and choose, you'll end up with the same power increase/advantage just a different appearance.
The ISR mod is cool
I'm anxious to see the update from Christian, <96runner>, with his newest mod
Up to personal preference really.
Deckplate you have the option of making the air intake as water resistant as it was before but it's an obvious modification.
Elbow removal is a permanent hole with no quick fix for sealing but it's hidden from view and not commonly looked for.
Pick and choose, you'll end up with the same power increase/advantage just a different appearance.
The ISR mod is cool
I'm anxious to see the update from Christian, <96runner>, with his newest mod
08-29-2003, 09:09 AM
#20
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,916
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by spoogy
sure you can screw in the deckplate, but the elbow is at the same level so unless you plug that too you're not waterproof, right?
sure you can screw in the deckplate, but the elbow is at the same level so unless you plug that too you're not waterproof, right?
