Stretch98

First post here, but I've been reading the other posts a fair amount to try and avoid stupid questions. Well, here's the data:

1) 1998 Tacoma, 2.4 L, 108k miles
2) Started up fine for about 1 second and died. Since then it has not started up.
3) Had the battery tested at the local auto parts store and it checked out (95% charge).
4) Removed starter motor to have it tested, but while I was playing around with it, the armature slipped right out. It's a stupid design, though, and once it comes out, it's near impossible to put it back in without some special tools. So $150 later, I replaced the starter motor with a Bosch aftermarket one, and the engine turns over nice and strong (accessory belts all spinning w/o hesitation), but never seems to catch (gets close though). This led me to believe that it is probably the fuel or ignition system that's causing the problem.
5) I can't hear the fuel pump when I put the switch to the on position, even with my ear right next to the gas cap. Does anyone know if you can hear the fuel pump on a 98 Tacoma?
6) Checked the 15A EFI fuse, the 30A AM2 fuse, and the EFI main relay. The EFI main relay has 4 terminals. Battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2 causes a clicking noise, resulting in continuity between terminals 3 and 4. I also checked that terminals 1 and 2 are getting 12.4V when the key is in the on position. Seems like everything checks out here.
7) I also checked the circuit open relay (COR), which has 5 terminals. Using the terminal labels in my Haynes Manual, applying battery voltage across STA and E1 causes a clicking noise, resulting in continuity between +B and FP, so the COR itself is fine. However, when I put the key in the on position, and check the wires going to the COR STA and E1 terminals, I don't get any voltage. Some people have posted that the COR isn't activated until you put the key in the start position. Maybe I'm just a newbie, but I don't understand this. How can the fuel pump charge the fuel system in preparation for a start, if the COR isn't activated until the engine is already turning over?
8) The spark plug to the first cylinder gives a healthy spark, so the ignition system seems fine. While I was at it, I adjusted the spark plug gap from ~0.037" to the 0.031" that the manual recommends, on all 4 spark plugs. The funny thing is, all 4 spark plugs smelled like gas. The inside of the air filter housing even smells like gas.

What gives guys? I've checked the four basic components: ignition, fuel, battery, and starter. Does anyone have have a suggestion as to what to do next? The spark plugs smelling like gas says I'm getting plenty fuel into the cylinders, but I'm suspicious due to #5 and #7. I was thinking of getting a fuel pressure gage, but I'm not sure. I could also take off the bed and look at the fuel pump and wiring, but this seems like a fair amount of work and I'd rather not do without probable cause.

Well, any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Stretch98

I sent this same description to an old friend of mine and as usual, the simple solution was the correct one. The cylinders were flooded with fuel, so all I had to do was floor it (which I'm told puts the computer in Clear Flood Mode, so that only air is allowed in the cylinders, no fuel), and it started with a big puff of smoke and a long repressed roar! I spent a week troubleshooting all sorts of other stuff, and it was a 2 second fix. You live and you learn. It still amazes me that my Haynes manual, which has a section for troubleshooting an engine that rotates, but won't start, with 18 suggestions, didn't suggest a flooded engine.

eddieleephd

Ok the fuel pump does not come on until the Ecm sees that the air is coming in and the spark is sparking kinda a three second start rule here because of this!
Makes the diagnosis kinda hard I will look for the run down.

the first thing I would check are the crank and cam sensors functionality! and also the maf signal. both should be checked at the ECM and if no signal there! then at the sensor to make sure that it is a sensor issue not a wiring harness issue.

the crank and cam sensors should be checked with a multi meter on AC not DC beings these are magnet sensors that sen an alternating curent not direct current, the maf signal should be DC.

eddieleephd

also a link to the FSM
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

the downloaded one has things that the online version does not!

serious check these things before going too far!

Next I would check the igniter and Grounds. Grounds might should be first!

but you have already found the issue and now i am going to shut up!

will remember that next time to start with!!!

atistang

the fuel pump will come on for 2-5 seconds when the key is turned on

but he got it running anyway, it says so just before your posts lol