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'98 4Runner Lift

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Old 11-14-2014, 07:10 AM
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'98 4Runner Lift

I have a '98 4Runner that I just completed the typical Tundra/LC lift on. I jused Bilstein 5100's front and rear from a Tundra as well. A couple things I've noticed is it was NOT as easy as a lot of people have described it as being. Start to finish was an 18-hour day with no breaks, and I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Here's just a few things worth mentioning that might save someone else from making the same mistakes I did

Front coils came off without a problem. I stripped them down so I could place the top-hat on the Tundra coils. Took apart the Tundra coils, assembled them with new adjustable 5100's (middle setting) and 4runner top-hat. I read that using the bottle jack from the vehicle (placed upside down) on top of the upper control arm would aid in seating the new assembly. I'm here to tell you now; that sucker wouldn't fit no matter what I did. I pushed, I pryed, I pulled, Cursed a lot..rinse and repeat. Nope, ain't happening. Pulled it all out, took the strut apart and tried a lower setting on the adjustable 5100. No change. Took it back apart and placed the 5100 back on the middle setting. Finally got it seated in place by using the spring compressor while installing. Holy ˟˟˟˟. (Oh yeah, have a grinder handy because you WILL be shaving excess metal off your suspension components if you ever want this to fit.)

Moving on.

Next side, same story. I have tricks this time, so I used the spring compressor and everything went as ˟˟˟˟ty as expected, but fit. Of Course during all this I have disconnected the front sway bar end links and noticed they're shot, so that's something I added to the long list of replacement parts to get later.

Disconnected the rear sway bar end links, got the brackets off the axle housing to give me a little slack to fit the new LC coils. Bottom Shock bolt came out without any issues. Top bolt? Good freakin' luck. There was a brief period of time when I thought of cutting the inner-fender out so I could actually get a tool up there (I didn't). I did, however, cut the shock apart so I could get some vice-grips on the shaft and hold it steady while I slowly removed the top nut. Once that was all finished, pushed down on the drum a bit and the coil all but fell out. Sweet, progress. Grab the LC coil and it sure as hell isn't fitting either. Out comes the spring compressor again.

I get it compressed and seated, run the top nut on the shock and, Holy Sweet Baby Jesus, what is this. A tiny hole and a large shaft (first time I could say that with any truth!) So, out comes the shock again. I realize the Tundra shock came with a smaller bushing than I needed, so I "made" some bushings that will get me by until the appropriate ones ship. Let's not get into detail of how much a PITA the new bushings were to press out.

Moved to the other side, finally some relief in sight; LAST WHEEL! My momentum was quickly halted when I realized the top nut was seized. Some time later, with some persuasion and choice words, I got it broke loose. Compressed the LC coil and set it in place. Thread is hitting on the frame. Took it out, decompressed and recompressed, tried again. Same.Freaking.Thing. Third time's the charm, got it just right and seated. Assembled that side and began reconnecting everything.

Panhard bar would not even think about lining up. Out came the come-along. Attached at the frame on the passenger side, and the axle on the drivers side. Pulled it ever so slightly to line up the hole, I'd guess 1/4".

Rear Sway bar end links were replaced with rears from a '95 4Runner because I read they were longer and were required. However, when I got them in place and tightened them down, I ran out of threads before it ever snugged up. So, I had to use a leftover bushing stacked on top so it would tighten appropriately. This is even with the 8-wraps.

All-in-all, I don't think a single part of this project went anything like I read it should. I will be installing a Panhard Drop Bracket as well as a Diff Drop as soon as I possibly can. I got the vehicle aligned the following day and it tracks great. The only concern is a pulsating hum from the front I'm now getting. This only occurs around 60mph+ Probably because I went 3" in the front without the diff drop. I think once that's on it may fix the issue. There are also some clanks and pings every so but I blame it mostly on the fact I don't have everything I really needed just yet.

Sorry for the long-winded post, but hopefully some find it a good, useful read.
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