tns1

I am looking at replacing my timing belt for the 2nd time. I did it at 80k the first time and I am at 160k. Now I read that the recommended interval is 90k so I may wait another year. My questions are about the water pump and idlers. Has anyone every had either of the idler bearings fail, and at what mileage? Same question for the pump - what kind of life span does it have?

Right now I am planning to leave the idlers alone unless I see or feel obvious problems, but maybe replacing the pump/thermo.

There are some excellent posts and pics on the subject which I could have used the 1st time, but there is something I don't see mentioned. For some reason (I don't remember why but it could be just to make room for a tool), I had to remove some kind of bracket low down on the right side of the block. This was the single most time consuming step due to the cramped space and blind spot. The 3 or 4 bolts on this (motor mnt/bracket/widget?) took an hour to remove and may not be possible for someone with large hands. If I get into it again I'll soon remember the what and why, but if there is a better way I'd sure like to know.

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

That was probably the A/C compressor. It's kind of a bitch to get off.

I got my w/p from AutoZone. They had one you could order with a lifetime warentee for like 35 or a lifetime Duralast in stock for like 90. Since they're both lifetimes I got them to price match the Duralast down to the others price.

kenwoodrunner

i have always heard you are going to want to replace the idler pulley and tensioner on the second timing belt change. usually if the spinn forever that is a bad sign. you want them to be smooth and tight. the water pump in my opinion should get a new one every belt change.

as for the idlers failing i have heard of it all the time on the 3.0l three slow. but less on the 3.4.

Ian Rogers

Well I just replaced the timing belt... I treat my truck to OEM parts and get them all(ie both idler's, water pump, belts, hoses, t-stat). I do the work my self its super easy(4hr after work) thats how i justify the expense.

just my 2 cents

Ian

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

I thought the work was easy but the biggest PITA was wither the tensioner bolt rounding off when I tried to get it off and having to cut it off or trying to get the cam gears to stay in place while trying to get the new belt on.

toy_tek

You don't need to remove the AC bracket, just loosen to remove the belt.

The lower tensioner bolt can be accessed from straight up underneath with a wobble socket on an extension. You need to move the little plastic wire loom on the front of the oil pan - 2 bolts - shift it toward the drivers side.

This should save some time.

I replaced my tensioner bearings at 120k when I did my belt/water pump. They were making a little noise. I think it only makes sense to change them cuz they'll wreck the belt if they sieze.

tns1

111db,
Good info on the bracket. When you say the bearings made some noise, what did it sound like? When you pulled them, was there any noticeable play or roughness? Did they seem dry?

On older vehicles it was the pump bearings/seals that were the first thing to go, sometimes fairly quickly once they started leaking or making noise. On the other hand, items like axle and wheel bearings can outlast an engine.

OEM pricing on belt, pump and two idlers runs around $300 at the site I am looking at. Sound about right?

tns1

Good info on the bracket. From the other posts I have read it seems like the idlers will make noise for a long time before they sieze, and the pump lasts far longer than pumps on older vintage vehicles. It sounds like these components can easily go 120k before you are at risk of being stranded. Of course if you can't risk the inconvenience then by all means replace them earlier. On older cars I've had the thermo or pump was usu the first thing to go.

When I looked up OEM pricing on the pump, both idlers and a belt it came to about $300. Sound about right?

toy_tek

Yes, just noisy, roughness I guess. They felt fine when I took them apart but obviously the new idler bearings were tighter/smoother feeling.

I paid about 300 for belt, water pump, and bearings if I remember correctly. trdparts4u.com

tns1

Now I am at 200k. I did the t-belt at 80k but nothing else, so I just bought the full kit to be ready ($250 for pump, idlers, all belts, tensioner, seals, thermo).

I notice the new WP gasket includes a rubber bead on it. Do you need to use any sealer with that?

The kit has cam and crank seals also. Normally I would not worry about these unless they leaked. They also look a pain to remove unless you had a trick or good tool. How easy are they to remove?

I really have no problems and I have to marvel at how much better these vehicles are. The quality of materials and design is so much better than those 60's and 70's era autos I used to drive (and fix). Most parts would not even last 100k including belts, hoses, water pumps, radiators, engines!

Unless you have extreme weather, I'd say the recommended replacement intervals are very, very conservative. There have to be some higher mileage runners out there, so has anyone had any of this stuff actually fail on the 3.4l and how many miles did you get out of those parts?

rworegon

No sealer needed with the new WP gasket. Just clean off the sealing surface good, slap on the new gasket, and torque to spec.

I just did the crank seal after rebuilding the top end on my 5vz. Igently cut away the lip on the seal, screwed in two small sheet metal screws a few threads into the seal and gently pulled the seal out. You may need a gear puller to get the crank timing gear off.

It likely you could pull the cam seal out the same way.

TheDurk

If you don't replace the tensioner (the hydraulic pin thing, not the pulley), you have no need to mess with that PIA A/C bracket. You do need the Bluepoint tool to relieve tension on the belt--lots of write-ups on this.

My approach was to go 120K and then do everything, except seals. I'll do them, too, next time at 240K in about 2019. They looked tight as a drum. If you read the monster thread on timing belt life on here--there are almost no reports of failure of the belt all by itself. Most fails seem to be brought on by WP leakage or seizing. So running 120K and keeping a sharp eye out for coolant leakage, seems safe to me.

The pulleys and tensioner I took out at 120K looked and felt like they were good for more, but to run 240K or even 210k (if I did the next at 90k) would seem to be pushing it.

Elton

yep 188k is all my water pump wanted so i got a really nice kit off ebay and changed it my self zero issues runs like new

survivorman97

iTrader: (1)

I have never replaced the tensioner, tensioner pulley or idler pulley and they all have 244k on them right now.My first t-belt job I replaced just the belt. A while after that I replaced the water pump. I am planning on replacing the belt again along with new pulleys in about 6k. How can you tell if the tensioner or any of these pulleys need to be replaced. I will replace the pulleys anyways, but what are the tell tale signs of them goign bad? Side note: with replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys; do you think its necessary to go with OEM? They are pretty expensive and the ones on rockauto seem ok... its such a simple part, it couldnt be that easy to mess up right?

TheDurk

Tensioner there is a spec on how far the shaft protrudes. Pulleys need to rotate tight and smooth and quiet. If there is coolant on anything it is probably toast. Take a look at this--all good quality OEM or OEM equivalent stuff. (I think all tensioners are made by Toyota--I have not seen an aftermarket one):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Who makes the rockauto stuff?

rworegon

When buying the pulleys from Toyota, one is made by Koyo and the other NSK. It's stamped right on the pulleys when they come out of the Toyota box. It appears the same are in the kit linked above.

survivorman97

iTrader: (1)

being such a simple part like a pulley do you think the risk of using another manufacturer is really that great?

rworegon

Another manufactures are probably ok, but both the Koyo and NSK are available from multiple sources (Goggle search) for less the Toyota charges if you want to stick with Toyota supplied brands.

Survivorman97, check out the AISIN TKT-005 Timing belt kit including Water pump with the same brands you get from the dealer.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1798452 for $ 165 bucks

FYI, AISIN TKT-025 adds the timing belt tensioner to the kit.

TheDurk

The only other option I have seen on the pulleys is GMB, also a large Japanese manufacturer. You're going to save maybe $20 across the two pulleys that are going to be spinning in there for the next 90k. To be honest, any cheaper and I would be worried. If I knew more about GMB, I might go with them. But I don't, so I'd rather roll with what Toyota builds them with. Koyo/NSK is what I pulled from the engine when I put my new ones in, now in the trail spare box. I might even put them back in at 240k, if the truck doesn't look like it has another 100k in it.

survivorman97

iTrader: (1)

FYI, AISIN TKT-025 adds the timing belt tensioner to the kit.[/QUOTE]

I was unable to find this kit on rockauto, but TKT-005 seems like a pretty good deal!